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Proto1000 RS2 DCC Installation?

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  • Member since
    October 2009
  • 34 posts
Proto1000 RS2 DCC Installation?
Posted by Rock Island Jim on Friday, October 9, 2009 1:06 AM

Hello all,

I am very new to DCC (unpacked the set today) and wanted to convert one of my favorite locos to DCC and sound.  The whole addition will probably cost more than the original engine.  The engine, a Proto 1000 RS2, has some "solder pads."  I've read that if I cut the traces where the three X's are located followed by connecting the decoder wires to solder pads on the original board.  This all sounds like much for a novice...  This brings me to a series of questions.

1.  What is the best decoder(s) for DCC and sound (Alco 244) for this application bearing in mind the minimal space in the loco?  Do I need to buy a speaker?  A speaker enclosure?  While I know this is a huge constraint, price matters. 

2.  Would it be easier to replace the original board with the DCC board as opposed to trying these solder pads?

3.  I've read about isolating engines and stuff like that.  How do I know if that is necessary? 

4.  Should I try to do this myself?  Should I pay someone to do it and save myself the trouble (this would cut down my budget in regards to question #1)? 

 I'm very nervous about possibly ruining this engine.  Any tips, tricks, ideas and thoughts would be very appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

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LaSalle Street Station

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, October 9, 2009 6:29 AM

I've got a Proto RSC-3.  I assume that these engines are pretty similar inside.  I first installed a motor-and-lights decoder in this engine, and later replaced that with a sound decoder.

I did remove the board entirely.  I replaced the original incandescent lights with LEDs, too.  When the time came to add sound, I used a Soundtraxx LC decoder for Alco.  For this decoder, I needed to buy a separate speaker and enclosure.  Some sound decoders come with speakers, but all the ones I've seen are 1-inch round speakers which would not fit anywhere in this locomotive.

I had to do some machining to get the speaker enclosure into the engine.  I took out weight above the truck on the long-hood end to do this.  It wasn't terribly hard to do with a hacksaw and a Dremel tool.

I would check with my LHS and see how much they would charge to do the installation.  I had another engine done at my LHS, and the installation fee of $35 was extremely reasonable, considering how much time I have to spend to get a sound system into an engine by myself.

My choice of decoder was made before Soundtraxx released the diesel Tsunami line.  I've also installed one of those, and it's a far better decoder.  Of course, it's also a more expensive decoder.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: high desert so cal
  • 997 posts
Posted by BIG JERR on Friday, October 9, 2009 9:02 AM

I agree with David ,the at-1000 is a nice product @ 79.00 + speaker 6-7$ . I just put these in a atlas rs3 & and a athearn rs3 these were my first dcc installs( good eyes or magnifier are a must)try litchfield station .com they have a install page with examples & parts list for differant loccos, very helpful for me as they had the atlas rs 3 W/ picts .......I'm sure they have picts of the proto 1000 but don't recall if it was a sound install or just a decoder install . check it out   .   J.W.

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, October 9, 2009 10:34 AM

My Proto RSC-3 had the motor isolated.

But, don't take this to mean that yours does.  The whole point of this post is to say "CHECK IT AND MAKE SURE."

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: East central Missouri
  • 1,065 posts
Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Friday, October 9, 2009 5:50 PM

Purchase a 18mm speaker, it will press fit into the cab roof and stay put with no glue. I did this and it is alot easier than cutting and dremeling. You can barely see the speaker after install.

Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!

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