No, decoders do not need a "warm up" period in the context of your question, but your loco motor and gears might if they are not properly lubricated or have been lubed with the wrong type of lubricant.
As others have mentioned, dirty track and dirty wheels can also cause erratic operation so you need to make sure your track and wheels are clean.
As for the light, you have possibly blown out the bulb (or LED) by not using a proper resistor when the decoder was installed, or if it is an LED you might have the polarity backwards.
Are you pressing the Zero or Headlight function button on your controller to turn the headlight on?
HaroldAI have a new Atlas loco that is equipped with a Digitrax decoder DH165A0. When the loco moves for the first time in an operating session it is jerky and the light doesn't work. After a few minutes it is no longer jerky even when run on the same section of track - so, do these warm up or do I have another issue. And by the way, the light has never worked.
I have a new Atlas loco that is equipped with a Digitrax decoder DH165A0. When the loco moves for the first time in an operating session it is jerky and the light doesn't work. After a few minutes it is no longer jerky even when run on the same section of track - so, do these warm up or do I have another issue. And by the way, the light has never worked.
Decoders, being solid state electronics, do not need or have a detectable "warm-up" period. Since the heart of the decoder is a microprocessor, it has an initialization program that runs that may take a detectable length of time. This can be annoying with sound decoders that reset when power is interrupted. Most non-sound decoders are programmed to resume their previous state when power is interrupted and resumed so that minor power interruptions are not a problem.
Power interruptions are the bane of good DCC operation. Dirty track and wheels cause interruptions - which is what I suspect your issue is. The rolling of the locomotive over the oxidation breaks it down, which is why the situation improves, or "warms up". This type of performance used to be normal with oxidized brass track, and oxidized brass electrical path within the locomotive (wheels and truck bolsters). Clean your track and wheels and wheel wipers. I like sparing use of electrical contact cleaner (used to be/is available at Radio Shack, CRC 2-26 is also very good) as the cleaning agent. "Gleaming" the rails of the track promotes good electrical contact over the long term.
If it weren't for the headlight not working either, I might have suspected congealed grease in the gearbox - and you may have that as well.
just my thoughts and experiences
Fred W
Yes, the decoders warm up, but they don't "warm up to their tasks" as I think you mean. They don't get better over time; instead, like all things, they slowly erode or degrade, but the gradient is very very flat.
Let me explain: As with most electronics, they do get warm. Some a lot more than others, and some only because of either poor design or poor placement. The more amperage they are asked to through-put, the warmer they will get. But they work as a digital component....all or nothing, and not like an athlete who should warm up before a significant effort.
I believe it is your motor and drive-train that are doing the analog warm-up. I find, for example, that a setting for chuff rate on some engines actually changes as the drive-train warms during use. I often have to tweak the CV value for chuff rate as an engine runs over five or six minutes. I only do this when I want my experience with the engine to be very realistic...often I don't bother for minor asynchrony.
You are sure to get other responses, including those that mention things I haven't considered here.
-Crandell
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....