I am toying with the idea of adding working 3 color classification lights to an Atlas Trainman RS-36 with Digitrax DH165AO decoder. In the interest of saving space I was thinking of using tri-color (R/G/W) LEDs. For this to work with I will need a LED with a common anode. I searched the internet and came up with an overseas source, but I can't see spending all that on shipping. Does anyone know of any US based suppliers that offer 3 color common anode LEDs? I could probably get by with 2 color (R/G) common anode LEDs and a separate white LED, but it might be tight...
Thanks
Three possible sources I can think of are All Electronics, More LEDs, and Super Bright LEDs.
http://www.allelectronics.com
http://www.moreleds.com
http://www.superbrightleds.com
Thanks for the response. I checked the websites and it doesn't look like they carry 3 color - they have R/G, but not R/G/W.
Does anyone else have a suggestion?
If you turn on both the red and green lights, you get something like a pale yellow, as I recall. Is that close enough to white for you?
EDIT: I tried that, and I got kind of a dirty pink.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
There are no red/green/white LEDs -- they are only red and green. When both colors are turned on, you get yellow, not white. I have worked with LEDs for many years, and have never heard of a red/green/white LED. If such an LED is available in Britain, then they are onto something that no U.S. company knows about.
cacoleIf such an LED is available in Britain, then they are onto something that no U.S. company knows about.
I'm wondering if they've carefully balanced things so that turning both red and green on simultaneously gives something closer to white?
I have used two lead 3mm OD LED's that are white when off. Green with one DC connection. Reverse the polarity and Red. A little different light intensity though. With AC voltage a yellowish/orange color. I mainly wanted the red/green for block signals. I bought them some years ago from Jameco. Do not remeber which one. Take a look below. By the way, they are red green white.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&freeText=leds
Rich
I do believe there are some that would be more of a yellow with AC, but have never looked. I use to have a circuit that would generate DC, switch the polarity for a different color and also generate a low voltage/current for the yellow feature. I will look around. I think it used and 555 integrated circuit to produce the AC voltage.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Those wiley Brits seem to be ahead of the curve again... first the Beatles, and now this
The LED is actually tri-polar...according to their website..."A 5mm Common Anode (Positive or tripolar type) DCC friendly LEDTri-Colour: RED, GREEN & White.Designed by DCC Supplies, for compatibility with DCC Decoders, primarily for American modellers, similar to our bipolar red/white LED (although it has many uses everywhere!), these LED's are intended for use as classification lights, (see below for definitions) The LED has four connections, the Common positive, and the negative (Cathodes) for the RED, Green and White lights. Of course, any part of the LED can be used, and in any combination, so if you only require a Red/Green or Red/White common anode/ Bipolar LED, then this device is also ideal!"
The company is DCC Supplies <=== click to see for yourself
I may just use separate white and R/G LEDs...has anybody tried to cram 4 LEDs and the accompanying resistors in an Atlas Trainman RS-36? Any helpful hints?
I was think of using the LEDs to light fiber optics that would run to the class lights...I could put together a small PCB to hold all the electronics if there is room under the shell.
this is off topic, but...for the fiber optics i was thinking of using a scrap of clear plastic sprue as sort of a light bar. I would drilll holes for the LEDs on one side and holes for the fiber optics on the other. I haven't experimented yet, but my thought was that this would allow me to run just one strand per class light and be able to handle mulitple colors. (pats himself on the back)
Lee
Reformed GrownupI am toying with the idea of adding working 3 color classification lights to an Atlas Trainman RS-36
Not to throw cold water on a hot idea, but other than seeing if you can do it (always a good goal) will your ultimate operating plan for that engine actually require the three different class light colors?
The green class light means that the train being viewed is the first section of a train, and that a second train with the same train identification is following. The red class light would really represent a marker light used to identify the end of a train. So, if the engine were being used as a pusher and operating in reverse, then the red light would be lit to identify end of train. If you don't intend to have either of these operating conditions, you don't need those colors.
That leaves the white class light which identifies an extra. This you can do with a single color LED. And if you would use the engine as a pusher with the cab leading, then the red light would be lit at the rear. Again this would be done with a single color LED.
Just something to consider.
I have to confess that this exercise would be mostly for the satisfaction of successfully pulling it off. The painted out classification lights just don't look right... I suppose I could just drill them out and poke some lenses in there- but where's the challenge in that? There is definitely the "wow" factor and numerous cool points to be scored with the kids (and I'm the biggest of the bunch) for being able to change the color of the lights...So while I might not operate the lights in a prototypical fashion I would still enjoy the challenge of putting this together and experimenting with something new (fiber optics and bi/tri-polar LEDS)
Thanks for the clarification on the correct use of class/marker lights. I had no idea on the correct operation until I started considering this project. If nothing else this has allowed me to learn a bit more about how the big boys ran 'em.
Reformed GrownupI am toying with the idea of adding working 3 color classification lights to an Atlas Trainman RS-36 with Digitrax DH165AO decoder. In the interest of saving space I was thinking of using tri-color (R/G/W) LEDs. For this to work with I will need a LED with a common anode. I searched the internet and came up with an overseas source, but I can't see spending all that on shipping. Does anyone know of any US based suppliers that offer 3 color common anode LEDs? I could probably get by with 2 color (R/G) common anode LEDs and a separate white LED, but it might be tight... hanks
hanks
Some other good places for electronic parts (of all kinds). I have ordered parts from all three of these places since at least the early 90's, probably longer, and I completely recommend them.
Digikey www.Digikey.com
Mouser Electronics www.mouser.com
Jameco www.jameco.com
cacole There are no red/green/white LEDs -- they are only red and green. When both colors are turned on, you get yellow, not white. I have worked with LEDs for many years, and have never heard of a red/green/white LED. If such an LED is available in Britain, then they are onto something that no U.S. company knows about.
You could also use RGB LED's (Red-Green-Blue). They are "True Color" meaning any color including white. But they are more expensive and harder to work with. For whatever your application is, you would probably be better off using TWO LED's-- one Red/Green and the other White if you truly need white as a color. Generally however, if you're trying to replicate signals or headlamps and such, a pale yellow (amber) is often more true-to-life. They also make off-white for similar usage-- to simulate an incandescent lamp.
Reformed GrownupI may just use separate white and R/G LEDs...has anybody tried to cram 4 LEDs and the accompanying resistors in an Atlas Trainman RS-36? Any helpful hints?
If you use SMD (Surface Mount) components, I'd wager you could fit 'em in pretty much anywhere. If you have a circuit board already in the loco, or else are using DCC-- look and see if there is any "spare space" on one of those boards and just glue the resistors on to a blank spot and run the wires wherever you need 'em. SMD parts are VERY tiny. About the size of the lead in your pencil or the tip of your pen if you have one in front of you.