Duck-Under Electrical Connections

[mfm37]

 We've got a hinged lift bridge for our NTRAK layouts. It uses a tapered male female alignment made of hardwood. To carry power across the bridge we used a couple of draw latches. Attach the wires to the latch hardware. When latched, power is connected. Unlatched, no power. For safety, the track ahead of the bridge is also connected so it's dead when the bridge is lifted.

[JSperan]

 I'm not really struck on wooden dowels either.

I think I'll get a package of these.  I assume they will handle alignment and provide a possible electrical link as well, but I have yet to have one in my hand to look at closely just yet.

Table Leaf Alignment Pins

Another matter, somewhat related...I would like to make my liftout section a "slide up" section and thought I might do so by using drawer slides, perhaps like these.

Double Locking Extra Heavy Duty Slides

Any thoughts or comments?

[selector]

Wooden dowels won't be of much use if you also wish to establish electrical conductivity to the liftout with the pins as I alluded to in my first post.

-Crandell

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

 Those are nice but you can always buy these from Lowes for $2.00/dozen I will have to check the metal one's out but didn't see a price but the company is local so it shouldn't be a big deal to get a catalog

 The gap here is a lot smaller then it looks about .035 being as everything is powered tracks on both sides and the lift bridge trains run flawlessly across it. but I do intend to install Plexiglas guard rails

 

 

 

[JSperan]

selector

Something like these:

http://www.bonehamusa.com/dowel-pins.htm

 

-Crandell

 

Thank-you!

[selector]

Something like these:

http://www.bonehamusa.com/dowel-pins.htm

 

-Crandell

[JSperan]

selector

You can buy metal wells and alignment pins to fit in them.  The wells are inset to a hole in the wood, and the alignment pins help keep it in place, but also to guide the placement.

 

I don't suppose you have a picture and a source for these?

[Seamonster]

BATMAN

 Why not just go and buy a plug and socket set. The kind you use when making your own extension cords or fixing an appliance cord. At least with a plug and socket sets you will plug it in right every time.

 

                                                                       Brent

No, no, no! Bad idea! Someone, sometime, will plug it in to an extension cord or try to operate an electrical device off your DCC buss. Leave the electrical plugs for what they were intended for. Audio connectors, good idea. Or buy an automotive trailer connector at your local automotive supply store or the automotive section of a department store. The rubber ones come with 2 to 6 pins, and they can be inserted only one way. They come as a mating pair at the ends of a short length of wires. You just cut the wires in the middle and splice the connectors into your existing wiring. As an added bonus their wires are heavy gauge which will match your buss wires.

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

Here you go  quick and dirty Radio Shack plus for two pair for less the $5.00

[selector]

You can buy metal wells and alignment pins to fit in them.  The wells are inset to a hole in the wood, and the alignment pins help keep it in place, but also to guide the placement.  The point is that the electrical feed could be wired directly to both components on the four corners of your liftout.  Then, the insertion and removal of the liftout is the only thing you have to do.  No switches, no plugs...

You would want a gapped length of track at either side of the gap, on the main frame, fed also by the same liftout connections.  It should otherwise be dead.  Some time, sure 'nuff, you will find an engine dead, and still in one piece, with just the front truck dangling over the edge, saved by that 12" length of dead track.

-Crandell

[Phoebe Vet]

If you only have one block on the lift out any two conductor wire will work.  it's best if it is keyed some way so that it cannot be plugged in backward.

Speaker jacks, audio jacks, even electrical extension chords.  Clearly mark them so that no one tries to plug something unintended into them.

[BATMAN]

 Why not just go and buy a plug and socket set. The kind you use when making your own extension cords or fixing an appliance cord. At least with a plug and socket sets you will plug it in right every time.

 

                                                                       Brent

[mreagant]

My layout has a removable duck-under about 2' by 2' and I'm looking for the simplist way to get power to it.  I was contemplating a pair of quick connect/disconnect RCA type plugs.  All track feeders are 22 AWG through an Atlas Connector to a 18 AWG buss.  Track voltage is about 15v +.  DCC system is a PA Wireless.

I'd appreciate suggestions for the best way to do this.  Layout is 11' by 27' with no boosters.