I've just installed a TSU-750 in a brand new Kato N scale GS4.Other than rabbit starts and low wistle sound wich likely required reprogramming,everything went just fine for a few minutes.Then the loco suddently stopped moving.All sounds are still active but there is no voltage across the orange and gray wires.My feeling is a shot decoder but before I call it so,is there some other way of testing it?My LHS doesn't stock and takes forever to deliver so that would really upset me if that had happened.Is there any hope?.
I am not familiar with the GS-4.
Did you try to reset the decoder to factory specs?
How much current does the motor draw when connected to 12 volts DC? Try slowing down the motor with you fingers some. The 750 is good for 750 ma and I doubt a N scale loco would draw that much current, but as I said, not familiar with the loco.
Are you sure the motor is completely isolated from the frame? I use an ohm meter to check all my installations.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I had a 750 go bad. I had purchased it from Litchfield Station. They verified the purchase and date of purchase. I sent it back to SoundTraxx and got a replacement. or it was repaired. Do not remember which but works now. I only had to pay to ship the decoder back.
I'm aware that earlier runs of Kato's N scale GS4 had an issue with DCC.They were Daylight versions of this loco,but mine is the newer version that comes in all black color and are "DCC ready".Kato even sell the decoder for it so I tend to believe that it should be right for a Tsunami.
I will do an amperage draw test,just to be sure,but I have doubts that a modern Kato would fail this.I don't know what to think,it's my second TSU 750 that I'm having problems with.The first one went dead completely and won't respond to any reprogramming attempt,then the second one is all sounds but no pull.I guess I'm the problem........
Go back to basics. Use two double clip leads to connect the DCC controller to the red and black wires. Use a pair of double clip leads to connect the motor to the orange and grey wires. Reset the decoder to the factory specs using the DCC controller. This is a cheap due it yourself decoder tester. Don't worry about the two function leads at this time.
I have made my own decoder tester which the checks the decoder using a extra can motor and two LED's with 1k resistors for checking the function leads. If you are going to install decoders at this level, the proper items are very important. Plug in is one thing, this is not near the same.
I've found the problem...and am not too thrilled by the findings.At least,I didn't goof up as I first thought but I still have a problem.The engine did fry the "motive power" part of the TSU-750 but not the way that could be expected at first.I was aware that Kato's N scale GS4 (earlier runs) had had a problem but didn't expect the newer releases (like mine) to have the same problem as Kato had advertised having it taken care of.So I went on installing the TSU-750 fully confident it would be a troublefree conversion.
I soldered the decoder's leads to the original DC board (after cutting the linking paths on the printed face so that it would be insulated) so that I'd limit the mods to a minimum.I then cut the weight to make room for the speaker (didn't attempt powering the lights at this time as a separate board takes care of this) and then went on testing.Everything went great for about ten minutes until the engine abruptly shut down upon a restart.My first findings were that the decoder didn't supply any voltage to the engine but had kept it's sound features alive.Following a recommendation on this forum,I tried a "load test" with a DC control and found out that the engine's motor is shorting out (and I mean a dead short) depending on where it's armature happens to stop.It will start just fine most times but occasionally trips the power supply protection.This I never would have thought possible with a brand new Kato engine.
I'll visit my LHS thursday and see what will happen.Will Kato replace the engine?If so,what happens with the decoder?Not Soundtraxx's issue here and the LHS probably won't take the loss either.I've read that Kato are highly efficient with their warranties but I expect loosing the decoder value ($140. CAN+taxes).And if that wasn't enough,I had plans on running this engine at the club's open house days on our Thanksgiving weekend.I guess I'll have to forget this also.Well......did someone ever say that modelling was rewarding at times but highly frustrating at other times?............
I had a similar problem with a brand new (well, it had never been run on any layout) Atlas/Kato RSC-4. But I discovered it running on DC before trying to install a decoder. With nothing to lose (since the motor woul dhave to be repaled if it was dead), I actually opened up the motor itself and founf the problem, excessive adhesive spread on to one commutator segment. I cleaned it off, put the motor and loco back together, adn it ran as smoothly as a Kato should. Decoder install after that was no problem.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If you meet the following criteria, it looks like you can return the decoder to SoundTraxx for a replacement.No questions asked. I told you a couple days ago i did that. I smoked one. They do not ask how it might have failed. All you have to do is say the motor part no longer works. Others in the Yahoo SoundTraxx DCC group have done the same. Again, look carefully at the Warranty page I have included. It will not hurt to try. As long as the decoder shrink is intact, no problem.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/support/index.php?p=decoderwarranty.php
The tsunami is equipped with a fuse on the motor drive leads. They will probably replace the fuse and send it back to you. My friend just had two Tsunamis returned to him by Soundtraxx with a note that they had replaced the motor drive fuse...Their service is quick. You will probably get it back before the holiday.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site