I have installed 2 Tortoise switch machines on my layout and realized that they are actually 'ON' all the time, that is the motors are in the stall mode. Is this true and does it require a lot of power to run 20-30 of them at once? It seems that the motors would get hot if on for several hours. I have been debating as to whether I should continue using them or switch to a twin coil machine like the Rix or other. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. I love this forum as it always gets the right feedback and info. Keep up the good work.
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Yes, that is correct. The tortoise uses a stall motor that draws very little current and does not get too hot. A 12 volt 500 milliamp wall adapter can power up to 30 Tortii.
Another nice feature is you can wire LED's into the control circuit in series, without resistors, as the Tortise internal resistance is nearly ideal for that.
The Tortoise also has built in switches that can be used to route power or switch signals.
The Tortoise provides slow motion movement of the turnout points which some like better than the snap action of a twin coil switch. They are also quiet, without any "snap" sound when the turnout is thrown.
If you do decide to use twin coil switch machines you may want to look at using these control switches for them.
The Electronic Turnout Switch, protects twin coil machines from burning out if the momentary switch is held too long or gets pressed by laying something over the switch. It also removes any chance that the momentary switch contacts could be fused by back emf from the coils. This happens often enough, and will ruin the momentary switch and will usually then burn out the switch machine coil too. The circuit also provides a place to connect indicator lamps, or LED's. The use of a toggle switch on the circuit board instead of a momentary push button switch provides a visual turnout position indicator without the need for lights or LED's. They are available pre-assembled or as a kit at a really low price.
Note I am not affiliated with the fellow who markets the turnout switch, I just think it's a good product.
Yes, the tortoise are fine - in fact probably the best on the market. They are designed to stall and draw about 15mA each. I have over 30 and not a one gets hot. You can adjust speed of throw and current draw by applying a lower DC voltage.
I too use series LEDs to indicate position (low signals on the track) and tortoises work well with detectio systems too. (ie in an automated reverse loop.) Personally, I don't care for twin coil machines for multiple reasons. Yes I still have a few in hidden staging. It was an early mistake.
Rest easy!
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
farrellaa ...It seems that the motors would get hot if on for several hours....
...It seems that the motors would get hot if on for several hours....
I have some that have been on for over a month. I just felt them and they are cool to the touch.
Greg Amer
The Industrial Lead
Since the Tortoise is designed to stall, holding it on power will not overheat it. Only motors which MUST be turning to generate enough back EMF to hold the current down will overheat if stalled.
I personally use twin-coil machines, which lend themselves to hot-probe and stud operation from multiple locations at minimal cost. Another factor is that the prototype I am following had mechanical interlocking, and switch points threw with a clearly audible Clank! They didn't crawl from one side to the other. (Electrical point motors could be found on other parts of the system, but such newfangled gadgets hadn't reached the comparatively backward area I model.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I know it's not a very scientific test but I have a couple of Tortoise swm that are easily accessible on the layout do to the fact that the fascias have not yet been installed and after a days worth of operation they are as cool as a cucumber
Your response was more than I expected and greatly appreciated. I ordered 8 more Tortoise machines today, but what really got me going was the comment about LED's in line with the power wire for direction indication. I happened to have a pack of dual red/greed LED's that I have never used. I connected one to the Tortoise and it changes color to indicate direction without the added wiring and second LED (not that they cost that much). I am now working on using the LED at the turnout as a visual lantern, so to speak. I may try to work it into a scale? switch stand. Thanks again for the very helpful and fueling comments.
farrellaa Your response was more than I expected and greatly appreciated. I ordered 8 more Tortoise machines today, but what really got me going was the comment about LED's in line with the power wire for direction indication. I happened to have a pack of dual red/greed LED's that I have never used. I connected one to the Tortoise and it changes color to indicate direction without the added wiring and second LED (not that they cost that much). I am now working on using the LED at the turnout as a visual lantern, so to speak. I may try to work it into a scale? switch stand. Thanks again for the very helpful and fueling comments.
That's actually an interesting idea. They make surface mount bi-color LEDs that could be made to fit in an HO scale or larger switch lantern - so instead of the lantern turning to show a red or green indication, it's actually the light inside that changes, but hey.. would be a neat effect, maybe not worth the effort for every turnout but it would be an eye-catcher for one up front for sure.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have 36 tortoises each with a bicolor LED on my layout and they draw between .8 and .9 amps in total.
Randy,
I built 3 simulated turnout stands/lanterns and made them look like a 'prototype' design with mounting flanges and they look great. I painted everything flat engine black and then using a .030-.040 drill, spot faced a circular point at 90 degrees around the LED, so now I have 4 lenses that show the bright red or green light. They look amazingly like a real dwarf lantern and can be seen from any direction. If I can figure out how to post a photo I will put one on for you to see.
Thanks again all,
bob
Photo posting is really pretty easy, get a free account on Photobucket, that's probably the easiest one to post from. Once you upload your pictures, there are 3 options with each one for posting them in various forums and email. One of those has [ i m g] (no spaces) and a URL with [ / i m g ] (again no spaces) on the end. Copy that entire string and paste it in your message here - done!
Or if you already have the picture on a web site, you can get the URL of it by right-clicking and selecting properties, the paste that information here and add the [ i m g ] in front and [ / i m g ] in back.
I think people make things overly complicated sometimes
Bob - please, please, please post some pics of you turnout stands/ lanterns. I would love to see them. Just installed my 30th tortoise with about 40 more to go and was thinking of a way to do what you have done.
Thanks,
Tom