Santa Fe all the way!Allegheny, as I said in my post, I went this way on the suggestion of a friend. I've run the loco for a couple of hours so far, as I really like that 244 Alco sound. I guess if things go wrong, it will be a learning experience and I'll know better next time. Of course, as you mentioned learning experiences often are expensive. I do appreciated all the advice. I could have went with a Tsunami and I really like them, but I didnt want to spend the money.
Allegheny, as I said in my post, I went this way on the suggestion of a friend. I've run the loco for a couple of hours so far, as I really like that 244 Alco sound. I guess if things go wrong, it will be a learning experience and I'll know better next time. Of course, as you mentioned learning experiences often are expensive. I do appreciated all the advice. I could have went with a Tsunami and I really like them, but I didnt want to spend the money.
I purchased my MRC sound decoders for exactly the same reason, because I didn't want to spend the money. I figured hey I can get two sound decoders for the price of one QSI or Tsunami but we all know how that turned out. On a completely different note had I heard the difference in sound quality between the Tsunami and MRC's drop in decoder it would have been a no brainer, live and learn.
Santa Fe all the way!Well, guys heres what I ended up doing. A friend of mine who has forgotten more about model RRing than I'll ever know, suggested installing a separate motor decoder(Digitrax) and a sound bug from MRC. He also suggested a 18mm speaker as that would fit into the cab roof perfectly. I went over to see his latest loco purchases and brought along my Alco. Next thing you know, he had the afore mentioned setup installed in my loco. I think it sounds great and it costs less than the Tsunami board replacement. motor decoder $20 sound bug $30 speaker $12 Sound bug is made by Digitrax if it's an MRC it could be a Sheer brilliance sound only decoder if it is an MRC sound unit I can guarantee that if you use that locomotive with great frequency you will have a problem and will remedy said problem with another sound decoder therefore spending more money then originally intend on more reliable equipment. Also if it is an MRC decoder why would you go through all the trouble when yo can use one of their drop in sound decoders made for that specific locomotive for about what you paid for the stuff described.
Well, guys heres what I ended up doing. A friend of mine who has forgotten more about model RRing than I'll ever know, suggested installing a separate motor decoder(Digitrax) and a sound bug from MRC. He also suggested a 18mm speaker as that would fit into the cab roof perfectly. I went over to see his latest loco purchases and brought along my Alco. Next thing you know, he had the afore mentioned setup installed in my loco. I think it sounds great and it costs less than the Tsunami board replacement.
motor decoder $20
sound bug $30
speaker $12
Sound bug is made by Digitrax if it's an MRC it could be a Sheer brilliance sound only decoder if it is an MRC sound unit I can guarantee that if you use that locomotive with great frequency you will have a problem and will remedy said problem with another sound decoder therefore spending more money then originally intend on more reliable equipment. Also if it is an MRC decoder why would you go through all the trouble when yo can use one of their drop in sound decoders made for that specific locomotive for about what you paid for the stuff described.
Digitrax motor decoder DH123 and a MRC sound only decoder #1666. Im going to give my buddy the benefit of the doubt and see what happens. He has installed sound in approx 150 locos and owns well over 500!!!!! He just got some cabinets with many shallow drawers for storing some of his locos.Pretty cool idea I thought. Im going over there tomorrow to run and talk trains. I said to him once,"do you have one of everything?" and he said "close" I'll check out the forum for complaints as you said.
Are you sure it is MRC or Digitrax. Digitrax makes the soundbug. If it is MRC, well then you will experience problems. Just search through the forums here and you will see what I mean.
Will
The advantage of a board-replacement decoder is it takes up exactly the same space as the board it's replacing, so you don't have to worry about anything except fitting in the speaker. In my experience you can always find a spot for a 1/2" round speaker and enclosure. You might have to do some minor work, like moving some wires or shortening a light tube or something but nothing hard. Often even a narrow-body diesel like an RS or GP can still hold a 1/2" by 3/4" or even 1/2" by 1" oval speaker.
BTW if you do use a lightboard replacement, you would have to refer to that manufacturers info as far as whether you'll need to change the existing headlights or use resistors etc.
Vernon, thanks again, great information, I'm understanding better now. I didnt know about the caps, I thought you had to solder everything. No problem if I do solder as I've been getting better at it lately. I understand what you say about the tight fit. I guess I'll have to wait until I take it apart to decide on a speaker. One good thing, the manual on my loco says that no resistors are needed for the lights when installing a decoder.I would just stick a motor decoder in this loco, but I dont have any Alco's with sound and Id like to hear a 244. I'll be watching for the pictures.
The TSU-1000 or TSU-750 are likely the ones you are referring to, they are both available witht he Alco 244 sound scheme.
The advantage the TSU-AT1000 has over either of the above is that it replaces the factory light board. The RS-2 will make for a rather cramped sound install. When you replace the factory board, you get to make the best use of the available space for the speaker.
Go to this link and have a look at the TSU-AT1000, you should be able to see the tabs and the holes in the tabs. The plastic capsI mentioned earlier go over the tabs after the wires are inserted into the holes. You can also solder the wires to the tabs but the caps work fine. The tabs on the decoder are marked for which wires (motor positive, motor negative, the pickup wire, front light,rear light, & etc) should be connected. Another advantage of the AT1000 is that the light outputs are regulated so that there is no need for resistors with the factory lights.
The TSU-750 is the smaller of the two and is the one I would use if I did not want to replace the factory board. You could place the 750 in the long hood but you will probably need to remove some weight. The speaker will probably need to go into either the short hood or the cab.
It may be a day or two, but I'll shoot some pictures of a TSU-AT1000 in an Atlas GP7 as soon as I have the time to shoot them.
Vernon
Vernon in Central Indiana
Thanks Vernon, I'd really appreciate that. I was digging around in my new Walthers catalog and found another Tsunami sound/motor decoder that says its plug n play. I'd post the part number when I get home. Maybe you could tell me what you think of that idea.
Most factory boards have the wires secured with a plastic cap that is placed over the tab that the wire has been placed through.
To replace the board, you need to remove the cap and remove the wire from the hole through the tab. Do this for each wire. If the manufacturer has followed the standard color code, attach the wires to the new board according to the instructions that should come with decoder. If the color code has not bee followed, take your time and you should be able to figure out which wires to attach to the tabs on the decoder.
When I get a chance, I'll shoot some pictures to illustrate what I'm talking about. When I have them, I'll post them in this thread.
I've never replaced a board before, only plugged in a new decoder. Is a difficult thing to do? I noticed that it only takes a 9pin plug if you want to plug n play. 8pin...different story.
Yes, I agree, thanks for the advice.
You may want to consider the Soundtrax TSU-AT1000 with the Alco 244 sound files. This decoder would be a board replacement and the only real problem will be finding a place for the speaker.
If you don't mind cluttering up the cab, you could place a small round speaker in the cab. Another option would be a small oval in the hood. Installing a speaker in the hood may require weight removal, it may also require re working (or eliminating) the light pipes.
I hope this helps.
Hi, I just purchased a Proto 1000 TP&W RS-2 and would like to know what my options are for a combo motor/sound decoder. Im new to DCC, so something plug n play would be nice.