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NCE Power Cab failure

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  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 44 posts
NCE Power Cab failure
Posted by SirPeter on Monday, September 7, 2009 11:35 AM

Having been persuaded to convert from DC to DCC I purchased a NCE Power Cab some 22 - 23 months ago. All went well until a couple of weeks ago. Looking forward another DCC session I plugged in the Power Cab to the power supply, switched on and ...........nothing!!

 No red light on the board, hand set did not light up, no power to the track or locos. Yes, I did check the power supply with other equipment and they all worked. Spoke to the dealer I got it from = mystified!Sent it back to him for checking and still no answer to the problem.

Have emailed NCE Customer Service twice to ask their advice but have yet to receive a reply.

Anybody out there that can put their finger on the problem? Your help please people.

Regards - Peter

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Southeast Kansas
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Posted by wholeman on Monday, September 7, 2009 12:35 PM

You may have a bad cable that goes from the controller to the panel.

Will

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  • From: Northeast OH
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Posted by tstage on Monday, September 7, 2009 12:42 PM

Peter,

Sorry for these basic questions:

  • Do you have the Power Cab's wall transformer plugged directly into the wall or a power strip of some kind?
  • If a power strip, do you know if the power strip is working correctly?
  • If the wall, is the outlet working properly?
  • Did you check the wall transformer in the same outlet that you normally plug it into?
  • Is your 7' flat cable working properly?

It's possible that something gave out on the Power Cab board.  Even if you plugged it into the RIGHT PCP panel connector port, it still should light up - although you wouldn't be able to run trains with it that way.

Peter, I would call NCE directly and talk to Larry Larsen.  Sometimes they are quick to respond to e-mails and sometimes they're not.  It depends if they are getting ready for show or not.  I recently sent them a couple of e-mails and I had answers within an hour and 24 hours, respectively.

If power is going to the Power Cab and you don't get dittley-squat out of it, it's most likely the unit itself.  Chances are that you'll probably need to send it in.  You may also want to opt for upgrading the V1.1 chip for the new V1.28C chip inside the Power Cab throttle.

One advantage the upgrade gives you is that the Power Cab can now be used in "Yard mode".  This allows you to use the encoder or thumb wheel as both a speed wheel and a direction changer for your switchers.

For example, if your locomotive is going forward and you want to change directions:

  • Rotate the thumb wheel CCW till the speed step reads "000"
  • Continue rotating the thumb wheel CCW will automatically change the direction of your locomotive, then run it in the opposite direction
  • To make the locomotive go forward again, rotate the thumb wheel CW.

It's a nice feature and useful while switching cars in a yard.

The new upgrade will also allow the Power Cab to access all 28 sound functions that are now available on some locomotives.  Personally, for me - most usable functions are F0-F8 or F9.  Past that they are pretty gimmicky.  However, you can rerout the function buttons if you are into more heavy programming options.

Anyhow, thought it would be worth a mention - just in case you might be interested.  The new chip is probably $15(?)

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
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Posted by locoi1sa on Monday, September 7, 2009 2:26 PM

   My PC had the same problem a long while back. Look at the sockets for the 6 wire flat cable you will see the gold pins. Take a small stiff wire and bend a 90 degree angle in it just at the very end. Carefully pull the gold pins to the outside of the connector and try to keep them straight. Plug the unit back in and power up. When they are new there is not much contact pressure. They lose contact over time and straightening them will make a better connection. The next thing to check is the wall wart. Take a volt meter and see if it has output voltage. Wall warts have been known to go bad, but usually when brand new and not down the road a few months. They are variable out put units and you will not get a consistent reading. If you get anything it is good. If it is dead they are about $25 new.

   My bet is on the pins on the connectors. Check the cab and panel.

         Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 44 posts
Posted by SirPeter on Tuesday, September 8, 2009 3:00 AM

Thanks Will. Will get it checked

Peter 

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 44 posts
Posted by SirPeter on Tuesday, September 8, 2009 3:09 AM

Thanks Pete. Looks like the 'connectors' are the most popular fault.

Peter

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 44 posts
Posted by SirPeter on Tuesday, September 8, 2009 3:15 AM

Thanks for your input, Tom. Have a slight problem in answering some of your points as the Power Cab is with 'my' dealer - but I will pass on your thoughts.

1) Power Cab plugged into wall socket and is working correctly.

2)No change in outlet.

3) Unable to confirm whether flat cable is working correctly as it is with the dealer.

4) Will certainly contact NCE direct and speak to Larry Larson.

 Many thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

Best wishes - Peter

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