Ok, I didn't really know how to describe this question in my subject line but I tried. I just bought and received two BLI Hudson's, original Paragon models, that are kind of "project" grade. Basically, the two actual locomotives are in great condition, and seem to have everything there. The tenders though are just that... tenders. No QSI board/speakers or anything. Completely hollow inside, with a couple of speaker holes in the floors.
I know what everyone is thinking, but I paid less than it would cost for one of the Revell NYC Hudson plastic model kits for these engines. So, I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a Tsunami or Revolution, or whatver in the tenders, a couple of speakers, and get these going. I would think either of those decoders would sound a lot better than the older QSI they put in the original Paragon models as well. Basically the locomotive has a plug to go to the tender, but there is no harness between the two. Is there a way to still wire between the actual engine and the tender?
I am looking for the same solution> I also have 2 of them with no decoders from the BLI rummage sale grab boxes. I have 2 other QSI decoders from the same sale that work but unfortionately are 2 long to fit the hudson tender shell. Damm. ANy help is appreciated.
Jim
Absolutely,and it should be pretty basic. You can even get a 6 pin JST connector to mate with the loco harness if the tender connection is missing (provided it WAS DCC I haven't been able to locate the non-DCC connector).
BLI tenders have several different electrical pickup routings. Oddly, most have metal frames that are insulated from the trucks, with each truck picking up current from a different rail. You'll need to figure out which is which to match them with the pickup from the loco, as it also picks up from both rails.
I would also remove the loco shell to verify where the wires actually go. There should be- N rail (usually an outboard wire in the connector),S rail (usually the other outside wire),N motor, S motor, HL (headlight), and HL return.
That should start you off.
I made out like a bandit at that sale. Got a 99% complete Alco FA AA set with Loksound, a 99% K4, an 80% K4 (both DCC/sound), a 99% GG1 (was the prototype), several Loksound decoders, a 100% NYC 4-8-4 (also the prototype and DCC/sound), the prototype PRR I1 and USRA 2-8-2 (both missing tenders and unpainted), several tenders, and loads of parts. Only 2 tenders electronics were DOA. Everything else works and/or is easily fixable.
I sure hope they do that again. Next time I'll bring more money!
I got a Hudson as well! Funny that they had so many with the guts ripped out of the tender?
Anyway, mine is now running great with a non sound decoder installed in the tender. I decided to go that route and make sure the thing runs good before purchasing a sound decoder for the loco.
I happened to have some 6 pin harness that connected with the connector in the back of the loco.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Yeah, I felt like I got a good deal. A Paragon2 Hudson goes for $250+, a older Paragon goes for over $100 on Ebay with older technology sound/no QSI upgrade chip. I don't really have a layout that justifies a Hudson length Passenger train, but at least I can have one and maybe I'll have the bigger layout in the future.
Here is a picture of the inside of the tender. There is no harness to go between the plug on the loco and the tender.
So how did you wire the new decoder up? Did you have to run wires to the tender truck connections? What decoder ddi you use and what harness? Thanks Jim
I used my multi meter in Ohm resistance mode to figure out what the pins were on the connector on the back of the loco. From left to right looking from the rear they are
L track pickup, motor, LED, LED, motor, R Track pickup. (Sorry, did not note which was top motor, or which was -ve LED)
I happened to have a suitable 6 pin harness to put between tender and loco. I soldered 2 wires to the tender truck pickups (The silver rectangles in the image above) and then simply wired up a basic decoder according to its instructions. This of course was a manual solder job, using heat shrink to protect the solder joints. I used a basic NCE decoder, but you could use any with a wire harness.
You might try wiring it up for DC first, to make sure everything works OK and is picking up power. Once you've done that, it would be pretty easy to hardwire a decoder in.
Hey, Simon, do you remember where you got your 6 pin connector from and the part number or actual connector name?
I got mine from China today and they are too big, The look just identical, only about 1/2 again larger. They were labeled "JST", so I thought I was on the right track. Only $3 for 5 male and 5 female, so no big loss.
Local R/C hobby store also has JST connectors (that are the correct size), but only 2 or 3 pin, and $4 for one only male or female.
The harness was in my "grab bag" attached to another chassis that is beyond repair, so I stripped it for parts.
simon1966 The harness was in my "grab bag" attached to another chassis that is beyond repair, so I stripped it for parts.
Yeah, I just looked and I had a bunch of pieces of what looks like an SP Cab Forward, and it had a plug/wires that fit in the back of my Hudson locos. I guess I can run that to the tender and wire it up to a decoder.
It's interesting that so many other people have similar gutted locos and parts. When was this BLI "grab bag" sale? Is it something they announce on their website? The guy that sold me these Hudsons and parts said something about a BLI sale, but I didn't know what it was.
It was last month, they had an open house and for those that could not get to the open house you could order for $29.00 sight unseen a "grab-bag" For my $29.00 it got the Hudson that just needed a decoder, a fully working E7 chassis, which I hope to find a shell for at some point and a bunch of other shells and chassis. I thought its was real good value. Not sure if they will do it again, or if this was a one off deal.
I live about an hour and a half away, so I got to sift through what they had. I spent cosiderably more, about $600, but I calculated the ebay value (from actual sold items, not msrp) to be about $2500. Some items, like the FA units will never be made again (shame 'cause they are REALLY nice), and some are of historical significance, like the prototypes.
They had about a hundred each of the Hudsons and German BR01 models. which they were asking $39 or $49 each for. Some were 100% complete and working with maybe a broken handrail. Others had major damage or missing parts, Some BR01s were AC three rail. Some had LokSound.
They also had about 50 WM F7 A units with QSI sound. Also about 250 SF A unit shells.
Had I been thinking in business mode (and not extremely and painfully aware of what I was spending), I'd have bought every working Hudson and F7 they had, and every BR01 with a LokSound decoder. Even if I only sold them for $75 a piece, that's still a 50% profit! (What's $25 times 250?)
I actually made two trips, due to realizing that they were selling $100+ decoders inside their $25-$50 engines. On the second trip, they had started putting the $50 engines into the $29 grab bags. Sometimes more than one!!
Everyone there was extremely nice and very helpful as well.
All in all it was a great time. I felt like a kid in a toy store! (OK, so I'm not a kid, but it kind of WAS a toy store.)
Just an update about this: I have two Hudsons #5343 & #5330. I wired up a cheap, basic 28 step Bachmann decoder that originally came out of my 2-8-0 to one of the Hudson tenders. I tried #5343 first, because it is in a little better physical condition (the other one has a couple of missing detail parts) and the more seems to come on, but it will only move if you give it a little push. Even then, it will lurch forward for a couple of inches and that is it. Then I plugged in #5330, and it runs. It is a little noisy, and it likes to pick switches here and there, but it works. I don't know if the noise is because it needs lubrication, needs to be broken in a bit, or has a larger problem. Granted the cheap decoder probably doesn't help.
So, it's going to need some work, but at least one runs. I guess I could always take the missing detail parts off the other one if I have to. What do you all think, do I need to take the loco shell off and lubricate some of the loco parts? Anybody have a link to the old BLI Paragon Hudson manual?
Looks like all the support documentation they have are for current prodution models.
http://www.broadway-limited.com/supportdocumentation.aspx
If you want one of those, better get it now.
Diagrams don't have parts lists, either.
I bet if you email them, they will at least lookfor it, and they'll get it for you if they have it.
I've had nothing but truthful, and positive communication and support from these folks.