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lighting

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  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Ulster Co. NY
  • 1,464 posts
Posted by larak on Sunday, August 9, 2009 1:26 PM

skagitrailbird
f you are using a conventional DC power pack, you can power your traffic light and street lights from the AC accessory terminals or the fixed DC terminals on the power pack.

 

Be very careful that the bulb voltage matches the supply voltage. It's OK if the light bulb voltage rating is a bit higher but not the other way around. Bulbs last longer on DC than on AC and although you can adjust the DC voltage level at the pack, if it's a cheap one, the setting will vary with number of bulbs. If a bulb burns out the voltage will rise.

A regulated DC supply is best if you have one. Otherwise the easy solution is to set the DC control at maximum and drop the voltage with a few series diodes. (Each one will "lose" about 0.6 volts).  For example 14V DC pack and 12V lamps --> use 4 diodes in series with the set of lamps (which will be in parallel with each other). Use a few more to dim the lamps if you wish.

o---D---D---D---D---o     series

o──┬──┬──┬──┐
       L    L     L     L   parallel
o──┴──┴──┴──┘

 I hope that this board can handle ASCII symbols Whistling

Karl

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • 45 posts
Posted by dougedw4 on Saturday, August 8, 2009 2:48 PM

Read the June 6, 09 Model Railroader lighting articles.  Best I've ever read for the new hobbyist.

Doug E 

 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Mount Vernon WA
  • 968 posts
Posted by skagitrailbird on Saturday, August 8, 2009 9:59 AM

 If you are using a conventional DC power pack, you can power your traffic light and street lights from the AC accessory terminals or the fixed DC terminals on the power pack.  Run a bus wire from each terminal under the layout to (or near) the various light locations.  Then drill holes in the layout and drop the feeder wires down to connect to the bus wires.  Either solder these connections or use suitcase connectors.

 If you are using DCC power and control for your trains I suggest using a separate power supply for the lights.  This could be a conventional DC power pack (see above) or a "wall wart" power adapter.  If you use a wall wart I suggest 9v--your 12v bulbs will only be slightly dimmer but they will last for a very long time. As above, run bus wires under the layout connecting feeders from the lights.

 Good luck!

Roger Johnson
  • Member since
    August 2009
  • 3 posts
Posted by dave56 on Friday, August 7, 2009 11:50 AM

thanks Roger, I'm glad to join the forum...

I'm asking about street lightings...I have one traffic light, and about 6 street lights

Smile

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Mount Vernon WA
  • 968 posts
Posted by skagitrailbird on Friday, August 7, 2009 10:25 AM

 Welcome to the forum!

 What kind of lighting?  Room?  Passenger cars?  Buildings?

Roger Johnson
  • Member since
    August 2009
  • 3 posts
lighting
Posted by dave56 on Friday, August 7, 2009 7:48 AM
hi guys, I'm a very very new model railroader...at present I'm starting to develop my own...how can I make the lighting work, how to wire them, etc...talk to me like I'm a 5-year old kid, lol....in other words, dont be too technical with me if u can Confused

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