mcfunkeymonkey&, (sigh), yes, that's an unnecessary gap in the stock rail above the first circle on the right.
You might want to revisit that gap before you get too far along. It appears, from the photo anyway, that there is a horizontal offset between the ends of those gapped rails. I think that'll be bound to give you tracking problems if not corrected.
By the way, the rest of the track laying is better than I'll ever be able to do, especially since it's N scale.
The main reason to power the frogs is to better reduce the chance of a stall. If you would like to know some alternative set ups for this start a new thread as is off this topic.
John
maxman I'm happy it is working for you, but I think I'm still missing something on how you have this gapped. In the second circle from the left, the tie on the right side seems to be connecting the two diverging rails. Does this not make a connection between two opposing polarities (and/or phases)? Or is that an unnecessary gap in the stock rail above the first circle on the right?
I'm happy it is working for you, but I think I'm still missing something on how you have this gapped. In the second circle from the left, the tie on the right side seems to be connecting the two diverging rails. Does this not make a connection between two opposing polarities (and/or phases)?
Or is that an unnecessary gap in the stock rail above the first circle on the right?
Yes, that tie is connecting the two diverging rails & wasn't gapped. After I made that cut, & the corresponding one on the other turnout, the short disappeared & trains started rolling ;)
&, (sigh), yes, that's an unnecessary gap in the stock rail above the first circle on the right.A casualty of my first time using a dremel disk I'm just putting the mandrel in my drill (since I don't have a dremel), & while it cuts fine & only at a slight angle, it is a wee bit awk.
The second cut is better (only nicked a tiny chunk out of that stock rail!).
As for powering the frog: my 44tonner makes it through the turnouts fine as is with dead frog. Is there any reason to power the frog?
Thanks for all the feedback, people!This is definately helping my understand the scary & fantastical world of electricity & dcc!--Mark
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
Mark,
And even though you've cut gaps in your turnout, you'll still need to solder a wire to the frog in order to power it for switching. For manual switching, the Caboose Industries 220S ground throw works well.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Was going to say, the cut in the tie just below the left purple circle in the last image is definitely not through the copper foil. Photos help with more than just getting scenery to look right. Hmm, this could be a followup article to Pelle Soeberg's in the last MR....
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Here's a close up:
I thought I isolated the frogs & upper point rails with the cuts & grooves in the pcboard ties, but maybe I'm missing something.
maxman I can't quite tell from the photo, but it appears that the second long tie you have at the frog is beyond the gap you cut and is tying the two frog rails together. But maybe I'm not seeing the photo clearly.
I can't quite tell from the photo, but it appears that the second long tie you have at the frog is beyond the gap you cut and is tying the two frog rails together. But maybe I'm not seeing the photo clearly.
I agree, but its difficult to know for sure from the photo.
I cut the point rails to isolate the frog, but it seems there's still a short somewhere.Here's the setup:
Just hooked everything up to an isolated test track & all works fine.
It's definately the turnouts.
Guess I'll slip a couple pcb ties under the point rails near the frog, solder, & then make a cut before the frog. But will work it out.
Thanks!
If you've got your Power Cab correctly connected into the LEFT socket of the PCP panel...and it's blinking on and off...you've definitely got a short somewhere. Disconnect the new portion of track and see if the problem goes away. You should be able to narrow it down from there.
The frog does need to be isolated if this is handlaid track otherwise there will be a standing short and the powercab will keep attempting to send powere, but end up shutting down. Can you isolate the turnout or switch your power leads to another piece of track not connected to the turnouts and test the setup?
I think my frog is touching / connected to the point rails.
I made them pretty snug, & dropped some solder in underneath the frog to secure it to the pc board & it might have connected with the point rails.
Any way to deal with this (other than rip out turnouts & start over?)
Thanks.
Got everything plugged into correct spot.
The red light doesn not come on, though the cab panel does.
It blinks slowly.
I do have facing turnouts (a single crossover), but maybe I didn't cut the gap clean enough with the dremel. Or, I didn't gap the pcboard ties well enough when I made them.
Will check!
Thanks!--Mark
Also, you mention panels(plural) remember the Powercab is the command station so it only works in the one socket in the power panel. The additional panels you can daisey chain are not made to accept the track power. In fact your additional throttle will not work unless the Powercab is plugged in but the extra throttle will work out of panels downstream.. Are you using the flat six wire cord or the springy cable. The springy cable is a four wire cord and does not carry the extra two track wires so be sure you use it. That springy cord is for using the Powercab on other layouts where it is not the command station.
Have you installed any turnouts that could be causing shorts?
So your plugged into the correct powerpanel socket, and the red light comes on(track power indicator), but no reponse from the loco. It sounds like there is a problem in the loco. Is it the only DCC loco you have? Is the track clean? If located in the garage or basement it only takes a day or two to muddle up the track. Could the track feeders have come undone?
Got it in the right panel.
When I plug it in (to the correct master / powercab jack), the screen flashes on & off at one sec intervals.
I'll read the manual again.
Are you plugged in to the proper jack on the PowerCab's panel? The PowerCab ONLY works when plugged in to the left jack on the PowerCab's panel (the one the pwoer supply goes in, and the track wires hook to). It does NOT work plugged in to any downstream cab plate. The downstream cab plates are only for a second cab.
I installed all the bus wires & cab plates.
I hooked up some feeder wires to test on a section of track.
All worked fine. My n-scale 44tonner moved back & forth, no problem.
But now I've laid some real track and the light's on, but no one is home.
I plug my cab into the panel & the startup sequence happens on the cab screen, but the light on the panel doesn't come on, & the train doesn't move.
Speed & direction show up on the cab, but no movement from the loco.
I'd be less confused if the system didn't work a month ago on the test track.Any suggestions?