How hard is it really to install a DCC decoder in an N-scale loco?
Anywhere from completely easy to almost impossible, and everything in between.
Why are there so few package deals that have DCC equipped locomotives direct from manufacturer?
I would guess they are afraid the higher cost would hurt them on sales. Also, they might not feel they have the volume to support different versions. It's not all bad, since a lot of times the decoder on a factory equipped model isn't the quality you'd like, anyway.
How do I find out what decoder will fit in which locomotive?
Most, if not all, decoder manufacturer sites have this info. Also, for non-drop in applications, Google can be your friend.
Why do the stores that I see not sell decoders right by the DCC-ready loco, or have a little deal like newegg, where they suggest the right components to go along with whatever you may be purchasing?
I would imagine it is because the numbers are so small that they don't have the budget to put any extra resources into their sites. Some sites do mention the decoder, but even then, I would double check.
I want to buy several more locomotives, but I dont want to buy crap and I and I dont want to buy components that wont work together. Thanks for the help 8)
A little homework goes a long ways.
Most newly designed locos will be pretty easy, there is usually a drop-in (ok, some times it is a little harder than that) decoder available. Older designs can be more challenging. If you want to get your feet wet doing a hardwired installation, you cold try a Life-Like E or F unit. There's a little frame modification to do, but it's doable with hand tools, or at most a Dremel, and you can learn lot about the hows and whys of decoder installation without spending a lot. Aztec and Southern Digital are both sources of already modified frames for those and others.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Thanks a lot you guys, I have a better understanding of what I am getting into. I think that I will stick with DCC-ready, milling out frames sounds like more than I can do. Maybe I'll experiment on a cheap DC loco at some point.
You can get DCC into almost any locomotive, the question is how much time and money are you willing to spend?
My fleet consists of newer, DCC-ready models. Most of these newer models have had drop-in decoders available (e.g. a Digitrax drop-in for an Atlas HM15-44), or have provided space for a decoder (e.g. Bachmann Spectrum Consolidation).
Older locomotives (e.g. Atlas GP7TT) will need to have the frames milled out. There's an outfit called Aztec manufacturing that will do this - you send them your frames and they'll send you back the milled out ones, with space for a decoder, isolated motor mount, etc.
Personally speaking, I've always found that Digitrax have the best range - a large variety of drop-ins, and the DZ125 is easy to fit in a small space. They're also fairly reliable - the only failed decoders I've had are ones that I've accidentally shorted/overloaded during testing/installation.
But in terms of tools, all you really need is a soldering iron, set of jewelers screwdrivers and a bit of patience - in short, stuff you should already have.
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
When a loco is "DCC ready",it means that no modification is necessary to install the proper decoder into it.On the other hand,when a loco is not specified as DCC ready,you can be almost certain that some milling of the frame and other modifications are required.Depending on designs,some retrofit may be much more involving than others.
Most if not all newer Kato and Atlas diesels are DCC ready and installing the "right" decoder in them is a matter of minutes.I believe that other brands are also DCC ready but since I don't own any,I can't tell for sure.
A far as decoder brand,I've been satisfied with Digitrax's decoder with only one failure so far and I can't be sure the decoder was faulty.I also have an Atlas that came decoder equipped,and although I've read that these decoders (Lenz,made for Atlas) were bottom line items,it hasn't given me any problem yet.
Thanks David for the info 8)
What all is involved in converting a DC loco into DCC? Do I need a machine shop or just some vice grips and a solder iron? Also how does that compare to a loco that is advertised as DCC-ready?
What would be a worthwhile decoder to get?