I'm using peco code 80 tournouts as well, and I have now found two spots where Insulfrog turnouts are misbehaving on my layout. Even though they are supposed to be all live, they still seem to acting like power selective depending on which way the points are thrown. If they are thrown for the diverging route, they work fine, but if they are set for the thru-route, then all track on that alignment goes dead as soon as they are thrown.
I was wondering if it might not be because I have two of them set as a crossover, with their diverging routes joined on the frog end, but it seems to be happening in exactly the same manner where even a single turnout is used. I am confused by this, because all the advice pages say that Insulfrog tournouts should not need any special wiring, or have any unexpected electrical properties and can be used in any combination you need to place them.
check here, this is a fool proof and bullet proof way of doing the wiring
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
this shows the code 83 stuff and how it can be wired. the best and most reliable method i think with no need to worry about switch rail contact on the running line for electrical connection.
Sir Madog John, Peco N scale turnouts may be a different story. Are you using Peco code 80 or code 55 track. Peco code 80 is made for European purposes - i.e. thicker wheels and bigger flanges than RP 25.
John,
Peco N scale turnouts may be a different story. Are you using Peco code 80 or code 55 track. Peco code 80 is made for European purposes - i.e. thicker wheels and bigger flanges than RP 25.
I new some of this going in and thought that so many good things had been said that I should be able to overcome the shortfalls in the code 80 track. Eventually I will iron it all out but my layout is to involved to start over with new track and I do not have the resources to do it. Just frastrating, thats all. We'll get there yet. The layout actually runs fairly well with a few hickups during the summer months and winter is almost flawless. The layout is in the garage.
John
davidmbedard Can we be more specific here? Not all Peco switches are created equal.....and they DO have issues. Would you consider ME switches or Atlas? Both are cheaper and of an American prototype. David B
Can we be more specific here? Not all Peco switches are created equal.....and they DO have issues.
Would you consider ME switches or Atlas? Both are cheaper and of an American prototype.
David B
I would consider other brands for sure. I have a fair sized N-scale layout with all Peco on the mainline and after 4 years get a hiccup here and there. I am not the best track engineer for sure but when you pay premium prices these should be flawless in performance, or at least close to it. Some things I have come to not like is the lack of tight tolerances in the frog and guardrails. The guardrails are supposed to hold the wheel opposite the frog against the rail to keep the car or loco from picking the frog, it does not come close to that requirement. The distance from the point rails to the frog is so great that locos and cars dip or jog downward when negotiating the frog, and this is especially noticeable in my one steam loco I run. The points still get picked from time to time so I have to sharpen them, and today someone suggested I sharpen from the closure side of the point instead of attempting to grind down from the inside.
Peco curved turnouts magnify all of the above in a big way. I like to run through the outside radius to avoid picking the points or the frog.
It should not be rocket science, and it almost is. Eventually I will figure out the key through you fine folks and be more satisfied but right now I am a bit disappointed.
I do hope this was specific enough for some use.
davidmbedard Can we be more specific here? Not all Peco switches are created equal.....and they DO have issues.Would you consider ME switches or Atlas? Both are cheaper and of an American prototype.David B
If the OP is intending to use Peco code 83 track, it will be of American prototype, as this line has been designed by Peco for the US market. I am using Peco Code 83 Insulfrog turnouts because of their reliability. I never had any problems, no shorts, no failure, no nothing. I only operate by DCC. They are certainly not as good looking as ME turnouts, but as ME is not (yet) offering a full range of all the different types of turnouts and crossing i like to have, my choice stays with Peco, although they are a bit pricier.
I like my Peco Streamline Code 83 insulfrog #6 turnouts a lot! The overcenter spring is nifty. I don't have any troubles with mine. About the only thing I would like to see changed is their blade-type points.
-Crandell
the reason i chose peco was because of the greater distance between the switch points and the stock rails, its less of a chance for the points to snagg a wheel. also i allways hear good things about them and they also feel more sturdy compared to the atlas type. however i'm allways up for new and better suggestions cause i am still new to the hobby.
When the points are lined for the diverging route, the one point lies tight against its mated stock rail. I believe the wire powers the frog from the point rail. Besides unreliable stock rail contact, there is usually a wiper on these types of turnouts, a metal one that contacts the stock rail for power. The point contacts that wiper bar as well and feeds power up its length to any wire. At the same time, the other point rail is in the open position and is not making contact with a metal wiper near the throwbar. Even though its wire to the frog is in place, there is no power to it from the wiper. You can still get a short, but that is because the wheel on the diverging stock rail may briefly touch the 'unpowered' open point rail. This is caused by wide metal tires or by wheels out of gauge.
The 2 short rails from the frog need insulating joiners not just one. This will isolate the frog from the layout. The points will control the polarity of the frog. If you check out the points you will see small contacts that rub on the points when thrown.
The Insulfrog turnouts need no insulated joiners. Sometimes a metal wheel will bridge the gap at the frog and cause a minute short that may trip a booster. I usualy put some clear paint for about 1/8 inch long to cover the small gap.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
can someone explain how a peco electro frog turnout works for dcc. to me it looks like it will short curcuit under the frog and i know they say the rail joint just after the turnout is to be insulated but the short distance between seems it will short curcuit. due to the wires making an X under the frog.