how many electrical outlets do I need

[mobilman44]

Hi again!

Having been through a house fire at 13, I am extremely careful about anything that could cause a fire.

One thing I have done for my workbench is add a good quality electrical strip, from which I plug in the soldering iron, battery rechargers, test equipment AND the two table top light fixtures.  When the strip is turned on, the lights go on - making it obvious that anything else plugged in is also activated.  As I always need the lights on to work, the chances of me leaving anything plugged in after I leave is remote.

Also, as an aside, I strongly urge you all to install smoke detectors in your layout/hobby rooms, and to have a larger, high quality fire extinguisher readily available.  I pray you will never have to use them, but they could literally be lifesavers.

Trust me on this..........

Mobilman44 

[pjjkg]

Didn't see anyone mention a timer.

I've left my soldering iron on too many times unknowingly.

I put in a timer on the outlet strip on my workbench and I

don't have to worry anymore at 2am if I unplugged the iron!

doc steve

[tomikawaTT]

More due to good luck than good planning, I have three separate circuits in my semi-attached garage:

1. Room lighting - the usual switch at the personnel door, daisy-chained flourescent tube fixtures over the aisleways all plugged into the original single-bulb fixture on the back wall, which now has a screw-in socket.
2. Tools and portable lighting (for construction) - outlets every 4-6 feet on the fascia, all plugged into the one and only GFC-equipped wall outlet in the space.
3. Layout-related power - all connected through breaker-equipped power strips to a single master switch on the corner of the fascia nearest the personnel door.  That switch, in turn, is connected to the ceiling outlet intended for a garage door opener that was never installed.

 

All the connections to fixed (house) outlets are routed up and over the aisleways - nothing on the floor.

I flew the plan past the local codes enforcers, and was told that what I was doing was, effectively, installing some rather elaborate extension cords.  Since the circuits are fixed breaker protected and no changes were to be made to the house wiring, I didn't need permits or inspections.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[ds137]

Raff- you have not described the room you are working in, but based on one of your prior posts, I will assume you are working with an unfinished basement.   If this is the case,  adding Duplex Recepticals (outlets) is easiest at this stage.  I don't know where you live, and come local Electrical codes are much more stringent requirements.  Before working for the railroad I was an Electrician in Cook County (Chicago) which has the most stringent electrical codes in the country. (an after-effect from the Great Chicago fire)  As previously mentioned, figure 10 appliances (outlets) per each 15 amp circuit.  As others have said, if you can afford it, put in as many as you can, up to one every 4 feet.  A lot of cost will depend on how much time it takes to do the installation.  Working around and over furniture, boxes etc will drive your cost up, so clear as much out of the way as you can.      I would recommend a dedicated circuit for your room if that is practical.  Just adding additional outlets to the ones you already have, spaced around the room may be enough for your needs if no other rooms share the same circuit the existing outlets.  There are so many variables here that I could write a book and still not cover what you need.  You can PM me with a phone number and I will be glad to talk with you so you can get what you need from your electrician.

Earl

[Phoebe Vet]

I have a 16'X16' single level layout, Digitrax Super Chief DCC with 8 DS64s, a PR3, two lighted subway stations, some streetlights and a couple of lighted buildings.  The entire thing is plugged into one switched power strip which is in turn plugged into the same UPS as the computer that is next to the layout.

The work bench has a switched power strip that is plugged into a separate circuit wall outlet.  The overhead lights, which are track mounted soft-box fluorescent photo lights, and an air compressor are on another circuit.

 

[saronaterry]

I'm a contractor( actually a real hammer swinger). I designed and built my 42'x30'  basement, with a couple stories above for the CFO.I wired it. Three seperate outlet circuts, four lighting circuts.(rule of thumb is ten devices per 15 amp breaker. I use the same for a 20amp)And a dedicated circut on it's own for  the digitrax system. The breaker box is accessible from the train room so if something REALLY goes haywire I can shut down the system with one switch. Outlets are about every 4', code here is 6'. I HATE unplugging and plugging back in.

I highly recommend adding more outlets. They are cheap.

Terry

[MisterBeasley]

My layout ended up sharing a circuit with a bedroom air conditioner upstairs.  It wasn't supposed to be that way, but something went wrong during construction, most likely over-enthusiastic application of a sawzall, and the upstairs circuit ended up broken.  Fortunately, we don't use that AC much, and usually not when I'm running the trains.  However, it's a good example of what NOT to do.  When the AC does kick in, sometimes I get a momentary power dip that's enough to trip off my DCC system.

Try to keep your layout power as independent as possible.  It's OK to share it with a few "gentle" items like floor lamps and electronics, but avoid circuits shared with AC, refrigerators or microwaves.

[jamnest]

I was already a Digitrax DCC user when I built my current basement, with a house on top for my wife.  I had the electrical contractor install a dedicated and switched 20 AMP circut for the DCC system.  When I leave the basement I flip the switch and the DCC system is off.

I also selected the future location of my workbench and the light and electrical circuits for the workbench are on a dedicated and switched circuit.

I use shop lights for overhead lighting but the electrician wired celing electrical outlets which are controled by a switch at the entrance to the basement.  I can change my overhead lighting by adding or moving fixtures which are plugged into the overhead outlets.

 

 

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

cacole

This would be in violation of the National Electrical Code in the U.S.  A licensed electrician would never allow this to be done because it is an extreme fire hazard.  Electrical switches are not rated for a high enough amperage to put all outlets on one switch.

Not true.  Every switch on the circuit has to be rated to handle everything the breaker will let by.  In theory any one outlet can draw the full current of the circuit.  And some things come pretty close.

There are two issues to consider here.  One is current availablity, the other is outlet convenience.  In general, current isn't a problem for operation, and even lighting (unless the layout is large).  But tools used in construction can be a significant draw.  Even then, though, we usually use one at a time.  But, in the interest of safety, lots of outlets is good.  Fewer cords running long distances is a good thing.

[cacole]

wedudler

 Have all outlets over one switch. This way, you have nothing on - no solder iron - when you shut off this switch.You can use the light switch.

Wolfgang

 

This would be in violation of the National Electrical Code in the U.S.  A licensed electrician would never allow this to be done because it is an extreme fire hazard.  Electrical switches are not rated for a high enough amperage to put all outlets on one switch.

Several other responders are right when they say, "Two more than you have installed."

 

 

[BerkshireSteam]

Looking at this question I guess I sort of luck out. In my designated train area are two paired outlets, so I have a total of 4. One of those outlets is already wired into a wall mounted switch, which it just so happens is located right where the entrance to my train area will be. Now the only problem is that one of those dual outlets are already spoken for with a lamp and a fan plugged in. I have more conserns though. As mentioned most train related power suckers don't take up much juice, even less for me. No 10amp boosters here, at most a 2.5A Zephyr. But the real sapper comes in the form of a PC. It gets used often enough, and has to share power with whats in the area, so now I'm down to one usable outlet. I will need to buy a power socket, buuuuuuuut as said I won't have very many 'train things', so it won't be like heating something up in the mic, while using an electric can opener to open a frozen juice can, to add into the blender to make margarita's, all at the same time. I also sort of luck out though that the train area is limited room, so I won't have to worry about someone using the computer when I'm trying to program a locomotive while I wait for the soldiering iron to heat up to start tinning feeder wires. Not that I would do all at the same time, just an over-exaggerated example.

I've seen a few pics of larger layouts that used house style breaker boxes mounted to the layout. You might need to check codes, but one idea is to have that electricion just wire in a breaker box and then wire in seperate outlets along your bench work. It can be mounted right to the framing with those blue plastic junction boxes, and if codes call for it some pvc piping to run the wires through. I would stay away from metal junction and outlet boxes and metal piping, but then again I've been juiced before so I'm a bit weary of electricity.

Just out of curiousity, did anyone else use to stick those big square 6V batterys on their tongues just to get shocked? Or did I just let the cat out of the bag

[retsignalmtr]

There is a maximum distance between recepticles which i believe is six feet to keep down the use of extension cords. There can be more closer together but there is a limit as to how many are on one circuit. The electrician will know the codes. Plan on having the room lights on one switch and the recepticles powering the layout on another. You'll still need some recepticles that are always alive for clocks, table lamps and other appliances. It can get expensive.

[mobilman44]

Hi!

Not sure if this was mentioned or alluded to earlier..........

While the number of outlets is important, the electrical circuits feeding the layout outlets is just as critical.  In example, my 11x15 layout room has 5 outlets - but only one 15 amp circuit feeding it.  For my layout (11x15 HO DCC) needs, 15 amps is just fine.  However, that same 15 amp circuit also feeds the upstairs hallway and my computer/hobby room.  As our 5 amp vacuum is typically plugged into the hall outlet, you can see that its possible to trip a breaker if a lot of things are in use at once.

IMHO, the ideal layout room would at the very least have its own dedicated circuit - preferably two, one for lighting and one for the layout.

Take care,

Mobilman44

[MisterBeasley]

Your layout, trains, lights, accessories and all, will use very little power.  However, while you're building it you will probably use extra lights under the benchwork, and you will most likely use power tools and a soldering iron.  Later, you will want the ability to plug in additional lighting for photography.

I think the idea of putting a box every 4 feet is a good one.  That way, you don't have to drag extension cords all over the place, and you'll always be able to plug tools directly into the wall, rather than using an extension cord.

I run my entire layout from one outlet strip.  It plugs into the wall, but it has its own on/off switch that I use to control power to everything.  Just as an example, the following things are plugged into my terminal strip:

Power supply (NCE) for my DCC system

Old train power pack, now used to drive the turntable, power LEDs and run turnouts through a CD circuit.

Ancient Lionel transformer (Korean war vintage?) providing 19 volts for Walthers traffic lights

Wall-wart for Kadee electromagnetic uncoupler (draws a lot of power when energized)

Wall wart for Miller Engineering electrolumenescent signs (4.5, 3 volts)

12 VDC supply for incadescent lighting

 

One awkward thing about a lot of these low-voltage supplies is that they plug directly into the socket, with a big lumpy thing which blocks adjacent outlets.  So, be aware that even if you've got a host of outlets, some of them may end up covered by overlapping wall warts.  Plan for that with more than you think you'll need.

[Alantrains]

 

My answer to the original question is -2 more than you estimate and put in.

I have 2 double wall outlets. These plug into two 4way extender boards giving me 10 outlets. Because the power drawn is mostly a lot lower than what is usually plugged into a wall outlet, I'm pretty sure I won't burn the house down. i.e. Even a 10 amp  DCC Booster only uses 160 watts of power, a lot less than my vacuum cleaner.

I have 2 X 12volt DC controllers, one DCC (Powercab) controller,  one 30 watt soldering iron, 1 X 9volt accessories wallwart, One under layout portable light, one small fan for summer, one microwave turntable motor (for animated rotating venitator), one radio cassette/CD player for ambience, and a spare one for dremel or battery charger or vacuum cleaner. Yep! 10 altogether.

If everything is on at once it still doesn't exceed the maximun load for 2 double outlets. I make sure the vacuum is plugged directly into the wall outlet so as not to trip the 10amp breaker in the 4 way extender board.

cheers

[lvanhen]

At least 6 or 8 - but you'll eventually need two more than you put in!!  (Something about Murphy!)  10 or 15 years ago most of us didn't have DCC, and there weren't nearly as many lighted accessories available - billboards etc.  As previously posted, the electrician is the big part of the expense - go for a few extra!!

[wedudler]

 Have all outlets over one switch. This way, you have nothing on - no solder iron - when you shut off this switch.You can use the light switch.

Wolfgang

[richg1998]

I have two four gang outlet boxes at my work bench area. Keeps me from using multiple taps. A couple wall warts, Dremel, soldering iron, resistance soldering iron, extra spotlight, battery charger for portable electric drill. Maybe a glue gun, etc. Never can tell what you might need. Some wall warts can occupy two outlets. Kind of rare but it has happened.

Since my layout is in the cellar on a concrete floor, my power is guarded by a Ground Fault circuit breaker in the breaker panel. Yes, the wiring has a ground also.

Rich

[R. T. POTEET]

One! but after your house burns down you won't even need it!

[fisker76]

I've got outlets every 4'; they're cheap especially since you have the the most expensive part already booked, the electrician! If possible, have the layout on its own circuit breaker and a master switch that turns the whole layout on and off. If you plan on having your work bench in/under the layout, a four gang box will come in handy near where you work.

[Rafferty]

unsure if I should post here or in electronics, but how many electrical outlets are needed for a large set, I want to have a small city with working lights, surrounded by 1 set of rails and a high speed section and a subway in my layout, I have 2 outlets now but the electrician is coming in a week and can add more, suggestions?