For some years I have used a dual 16v AC transformer--- one outlet to track as 12v DC via hand throttles & the other to layout lighting as direct (parallel wiring) 16v AC. For some reason the entire lighting system has failed & in spite of checking all wiring I cannot find the cause. My HO l/out is block wired so the only reason I can come up with is perhaps some "gremlin" in the common return wiring? Any ideas or suggestions? Have the lights diminished with age (6 years) or would a sep. t/former be a solution?
dodsworth For some years I have used a dual 16v AC transformer--- one outlet to track as 12v DC via hand throttles & the other to layout lighting as direct (parallel wiring) 16v AC. For some reason the entire lighting system has failed & in spite of checking all wiring I cannot find the cause. My HO l/out is block wired so the only reason I can come up with is perhaps some "gremlin" in the common return wiring? Any ideas or suggestions? Have the lights diminished with age (6 years) or would a sep. t/former be a solution?
Attach a bulb right at the 16VAC output of the transformer and see if that works ? If not, try removing the wires to your lighting bus and then try the bulb again.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Two questions immediately come to mind: 1) how did you check the wiring? and 2) how is the lighting circuit wired (series, parallel, how many bulbs)?
Essentially, what you need is a complete circuit, from source (transformer) to load (lights) and back again. As well as testing the wiring, you need to test the bulbs and transformer.
I agree that your first step should be to check the output of your transformer. It would be a good idea to check it under load also. As Tom has asked are your bulbs connected in series? If so, one bulb burned out will kill the whole circuit and it will go dead. Good luck with your trouble shooting.
Joe
good plan! --I did start by testing the twin outputs of the transformer but the reading was nearly 17v AC.so I knew that bit was ok.Thanks for your help.
Lighting circuit is parallel wired with a total of approx. 20 lights (yards, buildings & the like). I tested the entire circuit with a digital gauge & found no power anywhere although power was at the transformer outlet. After hooking a spare 12v t'former onto the circuit the lights activated ok but found no blown bulbs which would cause a dead short. One of Life's mysteries.
Thanks Joe, as posted above to Tom have a temporary solution but it still puzzles me. No bulbs out, all wiring & connections in order on each block. Will keep trying.Cheers from the land of Oz.
Two more questions: 1) did you test the output side of the tranformer with the lighting circuit connected? and 2) did you connect the spare 12V transformer to the same point on your wiring as the pemanent transformer?
At this point I definately wouldn't rule out a wiring problem or a cold solder joint. Does your digital gauge (we call them multimeters) have an ohmmeter function? Do you know how to use it to check continuity?
A blown bulb will cause an open, not a short.
Answer to both questions is :yes. Will check for a cold solder join, the wiring seems ok after careful checking. My multimeter has Ohm facility but would appreciate any advice regarding how to use.Afraid I am a typical self-taught MR "sparkie".
Cheers John Laker
dodsworthFor some years I have used a dual 16v AC transformer--- one outlet to track as 12v DC via hand throttles & the other to layout lighting as direct (parallel wiring) 16v AC. For some reason the entire lighting system has failed & in spite of checking all wiring I cannot find the cause. My HO l/out is block wired so the only reason I can come up with is perhaps some "gremlin" in the common return wiring? Any ideas or suggestions? Have the lights diminished with age (6 years) or would a sep. t/former be a solution?
John,
Have you considered going with DC for your lighting instead of AC? The reason for asking is that you could use the DC side of an additional power pack and dial "down" the voltage so that your bulbs aren't shining at "full blast". This has two advantages:
I operate my 12V interior lighting at ~75% and it's plenty bright enough.
Just a thought...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
In previous layouts I did only use 12v DC lighting & never had any bother & as you say you can adjust the degree of intensity to suit. It was when, some years ago I "upgraded" to walk-around-throttle control that I installed the 16v AC system of lighting.Now that I have a "temporary" 12v DC tf hooked up I am more than a bit inclined to leave it be & give the other problem best. Thanks Tom for all your interest in this.
Best wishes John
dodsworth Answer to both questions is :yes. Will check for a cold solder join, the wiring seems ok after careful checking. My multimeter has Ohm facility but would appreciate any advice regarding how to use.Afraid I am a typical self-taught MR "sparkie". Cheers John Laker
I'm an electronics technician, so this is right up my alley. An ohm is a unit of electrical resistance, for wire, you want to have very little resistance, or a short. Any load, like a motor or light bulb will have resistance. For the safety of your ohm meter, all power to the circuit needs to be shut off, otherwise you can fry the meter. Set the meter to the ohms function and range to the lowest value. Touch the tips of your test leads together and note the reading on the meter. This is your indication of a good section of wire, or a complete short. Disconnect one lead from your transformer, or both if it's easy enough to do, and connect your meter leads across the leads going out to your lamps. You should get a reading above what you saw when touching the leads together. This is the resistance of your light bulbs. You may need to set the range higher to get a reading. If you get no reading (what is called "infinity" on the ohms function), just like the reading you got on the ohms function before you touched the leads together, you have an open (broken or incomplete) circuit.
Thanks for this will give it a try & see how it goes,
Cheers John.