Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Jim,
I've used the equivalent (blue) version from Home Depot and haven't had any problems with 'em.
Now, how many posts do you think it will be before someone comes along and comments that they don't like them and would never use them on their layout? I'm guessing 3...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I've been told but it's never actually been proved to me that 3M uses a better grade of metal in their "Scotchloks". Not sure how much better it would need to be on a home train layout.
I've been known to use the 3M 567's because they have a double blade instead of the usual single blade found in other brands.
Martin Myers
I've been using them for about a year now. My train room is in a finished portion of the basement - i.e. carpet, paneling, stucco ceiling. We have a dehumidifier over on the washer/dryer side that keeps the whole basement at ~50% humidity.
For light amperage loads under moderate humidity levels,suitcase connectors will last very long if not forever.Thet are a fast and reliable way to fasten wires together,on top of giving a neat finish look.On the other hand,I wouldn't trust them for heavier loads or adverse weather conditions as they don't offer sufficient corrosion protection.They sell them as "auto" supplies....that would be the last place I'd use them.
I started using suitcase connectors in the 1980's when I installed Dynatrol (for you youngsters, that was a command control system that came before DCC). The layout was converted to NCE DCC in 1979-80, and still has the same connectors in place, plus new ones for new situations. That should be enough said.
Bob
I think the important thing is to make sure that the wire is correctly nesting in the "notch" of the IDC (or suitcase) connector contact blade before you crimp it. The other thing is to be sure that the contact blade is flush to the top of the connector housing after you crimp it for proper electrical contact between the blade and the wire you are connecting to.
For crimping, I found that a medium pair of Craftsman RoboGrip pliers worked quite nicely...
...and it was already in my toolbox.
I've been using suitcase connectors and at first thought I should buy the fancy and absurdly expensive crimping tool. Figured I'd see what happened with my 20 year old plain old generic pliers. Worked like a charm!
How's that for an answer?
Dave
'there's something happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear' Modeling the Hard Knox Valley Railroad in HO scale http://photos.hardknoxvalley.com/
I use Channellocks.
With Posi-Tap connectors, you just need fingers.
John Timm
i think they are like many other products today. just one or two outfits make them and they are sold under a bunch of different brand names.
grizlump
grizlump9 i think they are like many other products today. just one or two outfits make them and they are sold under a bunch of different brand names. grizlump
Probably right. 3M and "some company in China" that makes all the other brands.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I work in an auto parts store. We used to sell the QuickCable branded connectors, wire,etc. and now we've switched to Grote. I don't see a difference in the two, and wouldn't spend siginificantly more money on 3M branded connectors unless I was in a pinch.
BTW, I bought a BIG bag of the QuickCable ones and they'll likely last me for years. They've been going strong since 2004. They were a little cheaper than the equivalent sized Grote package that we stock now.
As long as they work, that's all that matters, though I prefer to buy North American made products whenever possible, even if at a slightly higher cost.
Capt. GrimekI guess the main purpose of m original post was to ascertain if using "store brand" suitcase connectors was detrimental to the life of the layout/wiring. I often see the admonition to buy the "real" 3M versions and to use the special crimping tool. Not too many of us has the $70+/- to buy a tool that will be used for a relatively short period of time. We used channel locks and wiring stripper crimp blades. My friend worked carefully and has lots of electronics experience so I felt like things turned out well. I'd like to hear from anyone who's used the NAPA brand in particular to see how they're fairing, but other "store brands" like Home Depot's etc. would be nice to "monitor". Perhaps the 3M versions aren't always the best way to go. Perhaps they are? Is this a case of urban legend/quality? or truley the best/safest product to use, hands down? I think we'd all benefit and be curious to hear what any electricians and electronics enthusiasts, boat and car mechanics use regularly. If anyone knows how to start a poll and you're interested, fee free. We might get a more graphic view of what we're all commonly using. Thanks.
Hi Capt. G,
My Best Friend is the shop foreman at a Toyota dealership, do they use use them in the shop? yep. Does he use them on his own vehicles? Nope.
Having spent my whole life on and around boats, I have seen them used in boats, and wouldn't use them myself, especially for something important such as a bilge pump, or engine space ventilating blower or marine band radio(VHS) power. Boat stereo system, it wouldn't affect saftey, but why have to rewire again in the future?
Doug
May your flanges always stay BETWEEN the rails
Hi All: I have used them, (NAPA) on my Truck to connect a Plug for Trailer Lights to the wiring harness. They were hanging under the truck box, in all kinds of weather conditions, and I didn't have any trouble with them. Changed trailers and a new/different plug was needed. Couldn't get the old suitcase connectors apart so cut the old trailer wires off close and used new ones on the harness wires again. Still no trouble with them, sold the truck, and Trailer.
I use them in some places on my layout but solder most of the small wires.
Sam
Most of the IDCs I've seen sold in auto parts stores are single-size - designed for two wires in the range 12-16 gauge, for instance. The Scotchloks I get from MicroMark are designed to connect a 12-16 gauge bus (through wire) to an 18-22 gauge stub wire. Since I use 20 gauge feeders off a 14 gauge bus, I'd be concerned that the single-size wouldn't get a good bite on the 20 gauge feeder. The two-size Scotchloks do have a much smaller notch for the smaller wire.
Has anyone had success using single-size IDCs on wire smaller than spec?
BTW, I see posters here who use IDCs and like them, posters who say they won't use them, but no one who says they have tried them and experienced poor performance. Has anyone experienced problems or failures with IDCs? Has anyone had to remove IDCs and hard-solder layout wiring? It would be useful to here from you.
T taps are IDC's on the line connection. Different from familiar "Scotchlok" suitcase connectors which are also IDC's on the tap wire. T-taps accept a 1/4 inch male spade connector for the tap wire after installation on the line. Line installation is the same as a suitcase connector. These are more versatile because they allow for different size tap wires where the correct size suitcase connector is not available. You just need a 1/4inch spade terminal sized correctly for the tap wire. The spades are then crimped to the tap wire and inserted in the T-Tap to make the connection.
They are very handy if the connection needs to be broken or changed as the spade connector can be removed. I use them on a couple of my NTRAK modules to connect accessories. If there is trouble, the tap can be easily removed without shutting down the whole line.
I use the connectors sized for 14-16 ga. wire. My main buses are 14, secondaries are 16, and track feeders (connected to each section of track, usually every 2-3 feet) are 18.
I have had no trouble with the connectors after insuring that a good 'bite' is made when installing them. I have had to redo a connection occasionally when they don't quite bite fully on the smaller wires.
You just need to take care when first installing them.
I've even had good success removing and reinstalling them when redoing sections, but sometimes you end destroying the plastic case when disconnecting them. It takes patience, coordination, and is quite tedious, but once you get the technique (use two small flat screwdrivers) down it's not too bad.
Hi, Jim, Back from CA. I use the red ones from Wally's with no problems. My drops are 20 ga. thermostat wire, so I lap the end about an inch and twist it, so I usually get two contact areas on the drop. Also I use 14 ga. bus wire. Areas of long distance I sometimes use 12 ga. so I slit the insulation all around in the area of the suitcase. The stranded wire compresses just fine, never any problems! John
Capt. Grimek
When I bought the truck, the trailer Plug wires were already on it, and I think I had it for two winters, before I changed Trailers and changed the wiring, with new NAPA suitcase connectors. I drove the truck for another year and and the truck was Getting pretty cancerous with rust. Put a Wooden box on it and didn't bother the trailer connections, but had to rewire the Tail Stop and Turn signal lights, didn't use the suitcase connectors, as there were more wires and I just spliced into the harness, which made for a more compact joint. Just a little swelling in the harness after I taped it back up. After the wooden box I had it for another year and a half, before the Rust in the Frame wouldn't pass inspection.
PS The Truck was a '93 Nissan, 4 WD, V6, 5Sp. Hated to see it go, but not worth fixing, dew to cost and the miles on it. 193K+