Hi.
Some of you might remember my learning project, I'm building a dcc and sound powered loco from a shell. I had it running with sound and motion. But the lights don't work front or back, and I found broken gears (axels) in the front truck. Decoder is soundtraxx DSDLL110 LC which calls for a 330 ohm resister in series with the light bulbs. Soundtraxx says this decoder does not work well with LEDs.#1 How much voltage can I apply to this bulb and resister to check it? 12V DC ??? Any other thoughts on how to check? Maybe cold solder joint??#2 Where can I get gears? Trucks are ( proto power west) I assume they are the same as Athearn, The trucks fit on an Athearn frame.
Even if this Loco never runs right I'm still learning a lot.I sure didn't want to tear one of my new sound units apart to learn what makes them work.The folks on this forum have been a big help. Thanks
Lee
I always use a 1K Ohm resistor for an incandescent bulb, and even for many LEDs. A decoder's light function output is 12 Volts. If the headlight bulb is also rated for 12 Volts you need a resistor only to protect the decoder against the inrush current when the light is turned on -- 330 Ohms would be okay for this. Try 1K and if the bulb burns too dimly, go with the 330 Ohm.
If you have tried turning on the headlight without a resistor in the line, you may have burned out the bulbs or the decoder's function output.
Athearn gears are what I use to replace P2K and other brands. You can purchase them directly from Athearn Parts in packages of 6.
cacoleIf you have tried turning on the headlight without a resistor in the line, you may have burned out the bulbs or the decoder's function output.
Anyone
I have checked the light bulbs for continuity and I do get resistance through the bulb and resister.
I'm able to program and move the motor with sound although the lights will not come on.
Question: could the plug still be reversed? If it is I would have to reroute wiring to turn the plug around. HELP!
yankee flyercacoleIf you have tried turning on the headlight without a resistor in the line, you may have burned out the bulbs or the decoder's function output. Anyone I have checked the light bulbs for continuity and I do get resistance through the bulb and resister.I'm able to program and move the motor with sound although the lights will not come on.Question: could the plug still be reversed? If it is I would have to reroute wiring to turn the plug around. HELP! Lee
Since you have a meter, measure the output of the light wires. Blue is common, and if I remember correctly, is positive. So measure from blue to white for the headlight and blue to yellow for the reverse light. A bulb or other load on the light wires is not needed when taking the measurement.
At this time in your troubleshooting, you now see why some folks have decoder testers. If you are going to do your own decoder installations, you might want to get one. NCE has one for about $24. I would consider it a good investment. I have one that I made.
Hope this helps,
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Elmer
And all that answered my post. I appreciate everyone trying to help, but the paper work that came with the decoder and the pigtail I bought just do not make any sense! The decoder is NOT marked for pin location. The decoder wireing diagram is NOT associated with the picture of the decoder. OOOH well, My 2-6-6-2 should be here in a few days . I suppose I'll play for a while and think it over.
Good day all
yankee flyer
I put a decoder in an Atlas SD38 couple of days ago and the head lights didn't work. and after a lot of testing and rude words and scratching of the head I through caution to the wind and just turned the plug around. and guess what the lights worked...
Paul