Converting from DC to DCC w/ Sound

[BamaCSX83]

All right guys, I'm a noob when it comes to converting over to DCC, so bear with me.  I've currently got about a 12-15 year old Athearn BB GP40-2 that I'm upgrading to run DCC w/sound.  I've yet to purchase a decoder and sound module, so I'm basically looking for advice/recommendations on what to get.  My only, concerns, I guess would be the word, is I want to be able to run full lights on the long hood, cab, and ditch lights (which I'm sure that most decoders are more than capable of).  I also want sound that way I can at least hear the GP40 as it makes its runs on my layout. 

Well there you have it y'all, please let me know what you think/recommend and I guess I'll go from there. 

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

Hey everyone was a noob at one time or another just some were back when dirt was new and God was a kid. I helped name dirt by the way. Anyway I'm in the same boat as you are and if you check the link I provided Digitrax makes an installation kit to take all the guess work out of installing a decoder in your old blue box special. You can obviously use any decoder you like. I have decided to sell off a lot of the DC loco's I have that will be tuffer installations get what I can and upgrade to a DCC ready or on board version of the same.

I ordered one last weeks so as soon as I get it I'll let you know if it was worth the $7.89 but for a fat fingerd guy who likes to burn himself with the soldering iron I think it will be.

As far as who's sound decoders are better or worse thats completely subjective. I just install 3 MRC sound decoders a #1820 direct application for an Alco RS-3 sounds great but a little weak only becasue of the size of the speaker and 2 # 1821's for EMD F7's in my o/p they sound great but like I saidsome will say they stink others will agree that they sound great. I guess thats the advantage of having a tin ear as long as it makes sound I'm happy

 

http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=2450028&cat=0&page=7

 

[tstage]

Eddie,

Others will be able to better recommend a sound decoder for you.  However, two things immediately come to mind:

1. You'll want a 4-function (min.) or 6-function (better) sound decoder.  A 2-function decoder can light your front and rear headlights and that's all.  The additional functions are for special lighting effects like Mars and ditch lighting.
2. Be extra sure that the motor on your locomotive is properly insulated from the frame BEFORE installing any decoder into it.  If you don't, your new decoder investment can go up in smoke because of a short.

Tom

[cudaken]

BamaCSX83

I'm a noob when it comes to converting over to DCC

I have converted a few DC to DCC and have had a lot of problems. It can get costly learning the hard way. In may respects you be better off buying engines with DCC sound. One of the problems I have had is a DC chassis is Hot, if a wheel contacts the chassis you have a short. Isolating the motor is one thing, but chassis is still hot. Older Athearns draw more power than DCC ready engines. Most decoder will only handle 1.5 amps with 2.0 amps peak for a short time.

 I will be getting rid of most of my old BB engines. Not worth the chances of eating a decoder. I using none sound Digitrax decoders at $22.00 a pop. Eat 2 of them you have a good down payment on a sound engine. Eat a $75.00 sound decoder?

 I think it was Ben Franklin that said "penny wise, dollar poor". One DC engine has let the smoke out of 3 decoders, that is $66.00.

                  Cuda Ken

[BamaCSX83]

Thanks y'all for the insight on "doing the job".  I know that it would be easier to either go to DCC-ready, or get engines that are already DCC w/sound, but I guess my old BB Athearn holds a little sentimental (sp?) value to me since I've had that particular locomotive since I was a kid. 

On the same note, I've narrowed down my sound board choices to either Loksound, or Tsunami....I've heard good things about both, but I'd always rather hear some more.

[cudaken]

 If you must convert, good luck. Here are a few links that may help. First thing is to get the blue box running as good as it can. Older engines draw way more power than the newer ones.

 http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.html

 As a ruel, your engine must not take more than 1.5 amps to stall, if it does you will pop a decoder. I have a 20 plus year old Proto 2000 BL 2 which is a Blue Box knock off that stalled at 1.32 amps. Should be safe, it has ate 3 decoders. Here is a link if you need to re motor.

  http://www.alliancelink.com/alp/

 I have heard very good things about there motors, I am getting 5 of them.

 I have one sound steam engine with a Loksound and I do love it. It has 2 good sizes speakers. I have used Ulrich Models and Steve is very helpful. He sale LokSound, Digitrax Sound Bug and I believe Tsunami as well. Steve is changing the sounds files for me in a Loksound C&O gave me.

 http://www.ulrichmodels.biz/servlet/StoreFront

 Hope I was of some help.

                       Cuda Ken

[BamaCSX83]

You have been a help Ken, thanks a ton man.  I'm going to get my BB running as smooth as humanly possible before I even think about popping a decoder into it, so I hope that all will go well, I will also be heavily insulating the motor from the frame as best as I can with the space limitations of an HO scale engine (I'm an electrician's son, so I know all the importance of proper grounds and insulation).  I'll have to check things out a little further as I get into more of getting the actual engine running, right now I'm having to get a new worm assembly for the front truck as it seems mine is missing.

[tstage]

Eddie,

I really like the Loksound decoders.  I think you would have more choices with the Loksound diesel sounds than you would with the Tsunamis  Also, Loksound decoders can be programmed specifically for the correct sounds for your particular locomotive.  On the other hand, Tsunami's allow you the ability to play around with different sounds.

For either one, Bruce Petrarca @ Litchfield Station is a terrific resource and can answer any questions you might have.  Hope that helps...

Tom

[BamaCSX83]

Thanks Tom, I'll keep that in mind.  I guess in a way I'm really just kinda shooting in the dark because right now I don't even have a DCC system, then again, I also don't really have a layout, but I do have a track plan.  Other things have gotten in the way of the layout (remodelling the house is the biggest), so I'm still trying to get to the point of having all my equipment ready so that when we're done, I can build the layout and have the all the other materials I need to get going, so to speak.

[Texas Zepher]

BamaCSX83

I've currently got about a 12-15 year old Athearn BB GP40-2 that I'm upgrading to run DCC w/sound.

For good sound the speaker installation and enclosure is more important than the Tsunami or Loksound decoder.   But that does bring up one technical issue.  Loksound uses "non-standard" higher ohm speakers than does the Tsunami.  So you might want to figure out where to mount the speakers and work backwards from there.  There are a whole lot of 4-16 ohm speakers on the market in oval, round, cube, etc.   There are many fewer choices of size and shape for 32-100 ohm speakers (which as I recall are what the Locsound requires).   You might come up with a really easy placement for 1" round speakers that would nullify my comments, but if the speakers need to be something a bit less common (e.g. 3/4" x 1 1/2" square) that could be a deal breaker if they only can be found in 8-ohm versions.

[cudaken]

 BamaCSX83, before you spend a penny of gear, buy books and read. I did not read any books about DCC when I made the jump to DCC. One of the reason I had so many problems. DC is easy and so is DCC, but what you know about DC could cause you problems with DCC.

 DC, if you have power life is good, in DCC if the bus wire is to thin to your feeders it will make your DCC think you are running more engines. If a short happens, DCC does not shut down, sends more power and you BBQ a decoder. Want to guess how I know this now?

 Read, read and read some more, Cuda Ken paying for my education the hard way.

[BamaCSX83]

Now that I have been doing, and so far what I've read makes a lot of sense when it comes to DCC and its basic operation.  I just haven't done much reading on converting my engines around to DCC, but I've pretty well learned what needs to be done to make the layout DCC-compliant.  Besides, I have to spend at least a few pennies on gear since I'm breathing new life into the Athearn (even if to just run it for the time being on DC), I've still got to replace the worm gear, housing, and driveshaft coupling (don't know where in the heck those went, but they darned sure aren't there now!), new paint, and a set of Kadee's to go on the front and back.  I can always upgrade to the other stuff at a later date, but at the least I have to make the engine run on its current power set-up.