DS137,
Thanks for your reply. You are correct. I want to splice a switch in the low voltage cord that connects the "wall-wart" to the Prodigy unit itself. The Prodigy Express is a good and reliable DCC system for my small point-to-point layout but it is a pain to "pull the plug" from the unit when a short occurs (almost always from a track switch set incorrectly or from a pesky Shinohara switch which contacts "contact" both + and - for a split second if the switch is not thrown just right. Grrr. Your suggestion for a momentary contact, normally closed switch is a good idea. I was just a little hesitant to cut into the low voltage cord in case some unforseen element in its interior held a surprise. I assumed it simply houses two wires as do most "wall-warts" (love that name!). Thank you for your suggestions. No 110v AC is involved and I will not do the work with the power on!
TRNJ
Sounds like you want build a 'reset button' that can be remotely mounted on your fascia, is that right? If I understand your description of the problem, you need to unplug the main unit of your Prodigy Express from the house current (110v) to get the unit to reset after a short on the track. I am not familiar with the Prodigy Express, so bear with me, a few questions to help me answer you. The transformer you are talking about is a "Wall wart" that in turn supplies low voltage to the back of your main unit, is that correct? If so, the short answer is yes, you can just splice in line an on/off switch. A double pole single throw momentary contact, normally closed switch would probably be all that you need, rated at least 5 amps. Wiring is pretty straight forward, 2 wires from the power supply in, 2 wires to the Prodigy unit out to the plug that fits the unit. Just push the button for a few seconds and release, system should cycle up.
If the Prodigy system has an internal transformer and you are running house current directly to the unit, all the above will not apply. Don't try to modify the 110v power cord unless you are very comfortable working with electricity. Better off with the other suggestions of an extension cord with an in line on/off switch already built in. Much safer all the way around.
I once caught a train in my pajama's. How it got in my pajama's I'll never know... (sorry, Groucho)
Ibeamlicker <snip> I wouldnt recommend cutting the cable.
<snip> I wouldnt recommend cutting the cable.
Cutting any of the wires might void your warranty.
Wouldn't it be simpler to just use a power-bar with a switch ? Or use any of the above suggestions ?
I usually just unplug the throttle,doesnt this work for you?I wouldnt recommend cutting the cable.
Thanks for the interest but I am referring to the small cord between the transformer that plugs into the 110 v line and the Prodigy unit. This cord is low voltage and small. I would be dealing with the current entering the unit not 110 v.
Get yourself one of those extension cords that has a switch in it - one where the switch is not merely in-line with the cord but extends away. They're often used for Christmas tree lights - it's a plug and socket with a 4-6 foot cord coming off to a switch. I actually saw them in my local WalMart the other day, so it's not just a seasonal item - the Christmas tree ones are usually green though. This will give you an easy to operate (they are usually foot switches) switch withough mesing around with 120VAC wiring.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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i'm not familiar with the PE DCC unit you have BUT i would recommend a regular simple ON/OFF light switch and box from home depot VS a DPDT. you are dealing with pure 100VAC; the seitch needs to handle the voltage/amps without over heating.
I have a Prodigy Express for my small layout but it has no power button on the unit and when a short occurs I must unplug the unit and plug it back in (the 110 v power cord is not especially accessible). Would there be a problem in splicing a DPDT toggle switch into the transformer cord that connects between the 110 v and the unit itself? It would be helpful to have a switch on the facia of the layout to reset the unit after a short and I am assuming the cord is pretty much a simple two-wire cord without shielding. Any suggestions?