TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Did you remember to isolate the lower motor contact from the frame?
Pardon the next question; did you discard the top power strip? (I've seen installs where they did not remove it!)
Carl in Florida - - - - - - - - - - We need an HO Amtrak SDP40F and GE U36B oh wait- We GOT THEM!
cmarchan Did you remember to isolate the lower motor contact from the frame? Yes i put down 2 layers of electrical tape Pardon the next question; did you discard the top power strip? (I've seen installs where they did not remove it!) Discard It ? no i took ot off and put it in my junk box and used the one that came with the decoder But thanks for asking !
Yes i put down 2 layers of electrical tape
Discard It ? no i took ot off and put it in my junk box and used the one that came with the decoder
But thanks for asking !
If you have a small 12 Volt lamp (50~100ma), you can attach it to the gray and orange wires in lieu of the motor and check it's brilliance as you increase the throttle; it should vary as the throttle varies.
If that is successful, with a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter) you can measure the motor's stall current. If this is a motor with the older one piece magnet, your motor's stall may be too high. Set the meter to its highest current setting and place the leads in series with the motor; set the input voltage to 12~14 Volts. Stop the shaft from rotating by hand and note the current draw.
cmarchan If you have a small 12 Volt lamp (50~100ma), you can attach it to the gray and orange wires in lieu of the motor and check it's brilliance as you increase the throttle; it should vary as the throttle varies. If that is successful, with a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter) you can measure the motor's stall current. If this is a motor with the older one piece magnet, your motor's stall may be too high. Set the meter to its highest current setting and place the leads in series with the motor; set the input voltage to 12~14 Volts. Stop the shaft from rotating by hand and note the current draw.
I checked the stall current prior to the install and it was just under 0.5 amps
These are Rated at 1,5 to 2.0 amps peak
Here are a couple of other, quite obvious things, to check:
Is the mechanism bound up from removing and replacing the motor? Can you turn the flywheels by hand?
Does the loco run on default address of 3?
If you have tried resetting the decoder address to a four-digit one, try setting CV 29 to a value of 34 as a separate step. You may be trying to run it on the long address, but if you don't reset CV 29 the decoder still thinks you're using the default.
cacole Here are a couple of other, quite obvious things, to check: Is the mechanism bound up from removing and replacing the motor? Can you turn the flywheels by hand? Yes it turns freely Does the loco run on default address of 3? Don't know didn't try it since I'm using Decoder Pro i can easly reset to default and try it I used Decoder Pro to set the long address If you have tried resetting the decoder address to a four-digit one, try setting CV 29 to a value of 34 as a separate step. You may be trying to run it on the long address, but if you don't reset CV 29 the decoder still thinks you're using the default.
Yes it turns freely
Don't know didn't try it
since I'm using Decoder Pro i can easly reset to default and try it
I used Decoder Pro to set the long address
Have you try to run it with the shell off? I know that sounds dumb, but I did have a self wired DCC conversion that did not want to run with the shell on due to a platform from the original DC set up was hitting the flywheel. It is a old PK 2000 BL 2.
I hate Rust
Not a bad idea Ken !
But something weird is going on I've tried to reset the decoder several times but it's stuck on the 4 digit address
I'm shipping it back to digitrax
Not having it wired properly, including having one of those slip-on connectors being loose (the one that connects to the piece of the headlight bracket that is riveted to the frame is a primary culprit, well, actually there it is the rivetn, there's usualy not great contact between that tab and the frame), will cause it to not run right and also not take programming properly, including a CV8=8 reset.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Not having it wired properly, including having one of those slip-on connectors being loose (the one that connects to the piece of the headlight bracket that is riveted to the frame is a primary culprit, well, actually there it is the rivetn, there's usualy not great contact between that tab and the frame), will cause it to not run right and also not take programming properly, including a CV8=8 reset. --Randy
Yeah Randy I know what you mean
I didn't like the loose fit so I drilled a hole in the frame and tapped it out then filed all the paint off then flattened the clip and drilled a hole in it and used a 2/56 screw to fasten it to the frame for a better contact