I am back with fussing with the Old DC PK 2000 BL 2's again. If you remember the last time I was having at it I was using the old DCC system using the MRC 8 amp booster. I am now Digitrax.
One of the things I saw with the old BL 2 is the wheels would hit the chassis while cleaning, and there would be a short. I don't like shorts!
One fix that works but I don't like was wrapping electrical tape around the chassis. Glue does not stay stuck well and hits the wheels when the engine is in a turn and slows down.
Next idea is to use Liquid Electrical Tape I bought from Home Depot. From what I have seen, it works well and easy to use. But, over time wheels will ware thought the stuff. Might be a long time but will happen.
Best solution would be to make the chassis cold, not conduct any power. I know I will need to power the trucks side frames like a DCC engine. Ideas are welcome!
I all so may need some new motors for the BL 2 fleet. One that is up and running again with a Digitrax DH 123 seems to take a lot of power to get moving. I will have to check again, but I think I have CV 2 set at 20 and it does not move till the DT 400 shows power level 10. New wheels will more than likely help, I just polished the steel wheel with 1000 grit paper and it help. I do like to over lube as well, so I will tear it down, clean and check again. It did pass the amp test with max at 1.36 amps at flywheels.
I was looking at NWSL and asked about them on the main page, answers where not great about them. Plus they did not call me back today like I was told. There link.
http://www.nwsl.com/
A fellow member suggested Alliance Locomotive, and they have a motor for my BL 2!
http://www.alliancelink.com/alp/photos.htm
Would they be a good pick for a new motor for DCC?
Sorry I am bugging you again, Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Ken, what David suggests will work perfectly. If you replace the motor with the one I suggested it will automaticly isolate the motor from the frame.
BUT, I 'm not sure I understand your concern? None of my Proto or Athearn units with live frames have ever shorted out while on the track. And I know lots of others who have converted such locos to DCC leaving the frame live with no problems as well.
Sheldon
Ditto, I see no reason to do this, what's most important for DCC is that the MOTOR is isolated from the chassis. The bad egg among P2K's are the Alco switchers. They have the wheel pickups completely isolated from the chassis, but one motor lead connects to the chassis. Works fine until a derailment brings a wheel in contact witht he chassis - you've now connected track power to the decoder motor output and the smoke comes out. These need fixing - other where the chassis is connected to one rail pickup are fine. Athearn Blue Boxes all have the chassis connected to the pickup, as do at least some of the new RTR ones. Most P2K's have this as well. Non of that is an issue so long as you obey the golden rule of isolating the motor with no chance of it or any wires on the motor side of the decoder contacting the chassis.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
To go just a little bit farther, it is essential that the motor BRUSHES be totally isolated from everything except the motor connections on the decoder. The motor frame can be hot or not, just as long as there is NO connection to the brushes.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)