I have heard the Caboose Ind. ground throws with the contact are less than reliable. I haven't had any problems with dead frogs on Atlas switches.
This link may help, if the points decide to go dead: http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/track/83_switches/ The newest switches have a revised method to attach the points, the rivets are no longer used. The older ones with rivets did have problems when they got older.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
TomDiehl 1) The snap relays are required for the turnouts to power the frog.
1) The snap relays are required for the turnouts to power the frog.
I don't beleive you need snap relays when using the Caboose Ind, manual ground throws with the power routing tabs, do you??
TomDiehl 1) The snap relays are required for the turnouts to power the frog. This is only a problem if you have short wheelbase switchers such as a steam 0-4-0 that is short enough to go dead on the frog if it's not powered. Longer wheelbase locos will span over the frog so not powering it won't be a problem with them. 2) Wiring around any brand turnout is more of a reflecton on the dependability of the railjoiners to continue carrying the power. Over time, or just after you glue down the ballast (yes, that's how I know), you'll have dead spots due to railjoiners loosening up over time or getting glue between the joiner and the rail. Most serious modelers solder a feed wire to every section of track, especially in tunnels or any hard to access point on the layout, for this same reason.
1) The snap relays are required for the turnouts to power the frog. This is only a problem if you have short wheelbase switchers such as a steam 0-4-0 that is short enough to go dead on the frog if it's not powered. Longer wheelbase locos will span over the frog so not powering it won't be a problem with them.
2) Wiring around any brand turnout is more of a reflecton on the dependability of the railjoiners to continue carrying the power. Over time, or just after you glue down the ballast (yes, that's how I know), you'll have dead spots due to railjoiners loosening up over time or getting glue between the joiner and the rail. Most serious modelers solder a feed wire to every section of track, especially in tunnels or any hard to access point on the layout, for this same reason.
I totally agree with the above, especially 2. For total dependability, don't rely on rail joiners for anything except mechanical alignment. For your small layout, soldering the rail joiners (except for those plastic joiners at electrical gaps) is a suitable substitute for the feed wire to every length of rail.
I personally prefer to solder jumper wires around the rail joints, but that's influenced by some climactic extremes that I hope your layout space doesn't share (100 degree annual temperature swing, and no humidity to speak of.)
As long as your locomotive pickup wheelbase is longer than the dead spot at the frog, Atlas Custom-Line turnouts shouldn't require any extra attention. If something DOES show up, it can be dealt with more successfully once the real problem opportunity is identified.
KISS lives. Don't make things more complex than they have to be.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Steven-I replied to your Email with some links. Hope it helps!
wcu boyI am planning a 2 X 8 layout with Atlas Code 100 Custom Line turnouts. I will be using Atlas' Code 100 # 8's on the mainline and Atlas Code 100 # 6's on the sidings. I plan on using Caboose Industries ground throws for these turnouts.
1) Do I have to power all of the Atlas turnouts with Atlas snap relays for operational dependability.
2) Andy Sperandeo in his book, Easy Model Railroad Wiring, recommends wiring around the Atlas turnout for dependability. Would the 220S Caboose Industries sprung ground throw with the contact and selectable fittings be a better option to wire around the Atlas turnout?
Personally I think the only issue I think you might have would be the un-electrified metal frogs. Some locomotives might stall on these. But don't create a problem that might not exist. Both wire arounds and hot frog wiring is easy to add at a later time if there are problems. I would hook the thing up, run it, and only when/if any of these things happen then fix them.
I know that many of you probably hate my numerous newbie questions, but money is tight and I need to make new layout decisions. I am planning a 2 X 8 layout with Atlas Code 100 Custom Line turnouts. I will be using Atlas' Code 100 # 8's on the mainline and Atlas Code 100 # 6's on the sidings. I plan on using Caboose Industries ground throws for these turnouts. The reason that I am using Atlas is because I am making this layout for my daughter and my grandchildren. The Atlas turnouts provide the easiest way into the hobby without a lot of wiring knowledge on my daughter's part or her children.
The questions that I have is this:
1) Do I have to power all of the Atlas turnouts with Atlas snap relays for operational dependability. I know that the Caboose Industries sprung ground throws with contact and selectable end fittings (220S) that could be wired to the snap relay could be the way to go. I would prefer to use the normal Caboose ground throws (218S) that have the attachments for the Atlas throw bar with no selectable end fittings.
Please help me with these issues. i am looking for long-term solutions as I plan my layout. As originally stated, money is tight and I need to make some wise layout planning decisions.