Most of my engines have a Loksound decoder. We - a group of friends - have bought the programmer and one of us know to use it.
The Loksound micro is small: 25-ton
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
tstage A Loksound decoder came in my Trix Mike. While I don't care for the fixed whistle very much, I think the chuff is outstanding. It's "throatier" than the QSI chuff and sounds much more realistic above speed step 010. It also crawls very nicely. Tom
A Loksound decoder came in my Trix Mike. While I don't care for the fixed whistle very much, I think the chuff is outstanding. It's "throatier" than the QSI chuff and sounds much more realistic above speed step 010. It also crawls very nicely.
Tom
Keep in mind that's a Loksound 2.0, not Loksound 3.5 that PCM used, and that you buy now. They kept the awesome motor drive and fixed up the sounds quite a bit. The whistle on the 3.5 is even playable to some extent with those DCC systems that support that. (At least any Digitrax with a DT400, and the PowerCab. ProCab with the last update I think too)
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
On the contrary! I have LokSound decoders in a pair of 12 year old Proto 1000 GP7's and they are great! I can MU them and run at step 1 for coupling or switching. Just one of them will pull 25 cars up my 2,2% 33"r. helix with no problem. If I go 30 or more cars I need both units. If it wasn't for the fact that I want to try the diesel Tsunami in some F3'sI would definitely go with more Lokies! signed: A happy hogger!
John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The Horn for the Baldwin's on the Stewart/Bowser Loksound Chassis is HORRID!
But it's a smooth runner for sure. Other than that, I have no real complaints.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I had the whistle volume problem with my T1, but that's because out of the box engine chuffs were set on max volume and the whistle was set to 50%. The bell was also set to full on. I put the bell and chuffs to 50% and the whistle to 100% and there was plenty of volume for me. No Loksound programmer needed, just set a few CV's. If you actually want to put a different whistle/horn sound in, then you need the programmer.
Hi!
Is this the same thing as offered by Stewart (Bowser) for their FTs and F units? If so, anyone know if they are worth the money???
Thanks,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
cacole Snip since it's the only engine I have, it's not worth the cost of the programmer. As has been stated by other users several times on these forums, LokSound decoders have the smoothest motor control available, but their sounds are very weak and can be changed only with the LokProgrammer.
Snip
since it's the only engine I have, it's not worth the cost of the programmer.
As has been stated by other users several times on these forums, LokSound decoders have the smoothest motor control available, but their sounds are very weak and can be changed only with the LokProgrammer.
Alot of us are in that same boat
I hope the local club will by one so all the members could use it
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
I purchased the Precision Craft California Zephyr A-B-A locomotive set with LokSound when Factory Direct Trains had them on closeout.
Something shorted out and melted the decoder in the lead A unit after a few short operating sessions. I contacted FDT and they sent a replacement along with a pre-paid UPS return label. So far, the replacement has been okay. FDT's customer service is the best I have ever experienced.
However, the horn is extremely weak and cannot be made louder. I've been told that the only way to change the horn or make it louder is to purchase a LokProgrammer. Since this is the only LokSound equipped engine I have, it's not worth the cost of the programmer.
I had no problems whatsoever with my Reading T1. Default whistle was a multi-chime passenger one that was not approriate for my in-service unit, but the secondary whistle that was already programmed in was simialr to the Reading freight whistle, so I swapped them around. Absolutely fantastic motor control, I could let it creep around on speed step 1 anf it would take a half hour to circle my 8x12. Some have said there is a sharpness to the chuff that isn't right - but the other night I was watchign so videos on Youtube of 2102 hauling freight on the R&N and darn if it didn;t have that loud 'thunk' at the end of each piston stroke. If you want ACTUAL sounds, Nick Kulp mad available a sound file for the Loksound decoder that includes actually recordings from 2101 when it was AFT 1. This is an advantage the Loksound decoders have over Tsunami - don't like the sounds, you can change them! They also have connections for a shuff cam so they can by synchronized by actual wheel rotation if you can fit the parts in.
I'm very dissapointed in the one that came in my C&O H-8
the whistle is nothing close to an american steam sound
and the chuff sounds very fake
Should have bought the non sound one and put in a Tsunami
Does anyone here have any problems with Lok-Sound decoders?
I have a Precision Craft N&W Y6b with this type of decoder and I had to send it back to them 5 months after I purchased it because of trouble with the decoder.
Runs fine now but I would like to change the chuff sound so that it will sound more realistic.
I run it on 128 speed steps and when at step 20 it sounds ok ....but when I run it any faster the chuff sounds like a machine gun which I know is not very prototypical.
Dennis Blank Jr.
CEO,COO,CFO,CMO,Bossman,Slavedriver,Engineer,Trackforeman,Grunt. Birdsboro & Reading Railroad