Here's a short clip of a passing shot on the bridge
The chuff seems right to me
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/AddPost.aspx?ReplyToPostID=1684309&Quote=False
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
rrinker Snip Best bet is to usually get it right for slower speeds, because that's when peopel can actually count wheel revolutions. --Randy
Snip
Best bet is to usually get it right for slower speeds, because that's when peopel can actually count wheel revolutions.
--Randy
Yep I agree after a Scale 20 MPH the wheels are a blur
Yup, better than the first vid. Probably the best you can do without swapping motors, or regearing it. Hard to tell in digitized videos sometimes, but it seems liek the chuff rate is too low. A basic 2-cylinder steam loco will have 4 chuffs per revolution, at the speed it was runnign at the end they'd probbaly almost completely blend together. There should be a CV or two that can tweak the chuff rate based on speed, even without adding a cam (which is the only way to get it absolutely correct at all speeds - be that a wheel cam or one on the motor shaft calibrated to the gear ratio and wheel size). Best bet is to usually get it right for slower speeds, because that's when peopel can actually count wheel revolutions.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
C&O Fan rrinker Best you can do is set the speed to speed step 1 and adjust CV2 until it moves at the slowest possible speed. That will be as slow as it posisbly can go. To get it any slower would require a different motor and/or gears. Use Ops Mode programming on the main to adjust it. If your DCC system isn't such that it has a throttle which will display the exact speed step, use the JMRI throttle. Adjusting the momentum will slow down how long it takes to get from minimum speed to the set throttle position, but can't make it run any slower. --Randy Spent the morning playing with decoder pro ended up with speed step 1 set at 5 and speed step 28 set at 90 with Acceleration and braking rates set at 20 runs much better now top speed looks like 50 scale miles per hour
rrinker Best you can do is set the speed to speed step 1 and adjust CV2 until it moves at the slowest possible speed. That will be as slow as it posisbly can go. To get it any slower would require a different motor and/or gears. Use Ops Mode programming on the main to adjust it. If your DCC system isn't such that it has a throttle which will display the exact speed step, use the JMRI throttle. Adjusting the momentum will slow down how long it takes to get from minimum speed to the set throttle position, but can't make it run any slower. --Randy
Best you can do is set the speed to speed step 1 and adjust CV2 until it moves at the slowest possible speed. That will be as slow as it posisbly can go. To get it any slower would require a different motor and/or gears. Use Ops Mode programming on the main to adjust it. If your DCC system isn't such that it has a throttle which will display the exact speed step, use the JMRI throttle. Adjusting the momentum will slow down how long it takes to get from minimum speed to the set throttle position, but can't make it run any slower.
Spent the morning playing with decoder pro
ended up with speed step 1 set at 5 and speed step 28 set at 90
with Acceleration and braking rates set at 20
runs much better now top speed looks like 50 scale miles per hour
I shot some video of it
In this scene the throttle is set at 50% and to start the loco i just flip the direction switch to forward
and the loco starts it's self using the momentum programed in
I think it's pretty close
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVy-diKH2Qk
rs2mike Sounds good. It looks like it takes off from the line pretty quick. Is that the video or does it really go that fast? Mike
Sounds good. It looks like it takes off from the line pretty quick. Is that the video or does it really go that fast?
Mike
Sadly its geared way too high Mike
I can put alittle more momentum in the decoder and that will help
I have a request in at the JMRI website for programming help to slow it down
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Got the Bugs worked out and shot some video
The sound is much better in person but it gives you an idea
http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/TerryinTexas/?action=view¤t=MVI_1766.flv
SteamFreak There are sprung plungers that pick up current from the front and rear driver rims on the side opposite the traction tires. It's possible for the springs in them to become weakened or burned out completely if too much current has run through them (i.e. a short).
There are sprung plungers that pick up current from the front and rear driver rims on the side opposite the traction tires. It's possible for the springs in them to become weakened or burned out completely if too much current has run through them (i.e. a short).
That's good to know
when i tested the drivers with my meter on the OHMS setting i got nothing
so they must be burned
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
Used a dremel to cut a small weight to put on top of the pilot
truck to get a better contact with the rail
I used some double sided tape to attach it while I test it to see if it helps
I'll also put a piece of band aid over the top {out of Electrical tape} to avoid a short
SteamFreak Nice job, Terry. One thing I wanted to mention is that I would drill out the stoker opening in the back of the loco, and run the wires through that under the footplate, instead of over. The connector looks like it might lift the front of the tender with the current configuration, which would only create pickup problems.
Nice job, Terry. One thing I wanted to mention is that I would drill out the stoker opening in the back of the loco, and run the wires through that under the footplate, instead of over. The connector looks like it might lift the front of the tender with the current configuration, which would only create pickup problems.
I hadn't thought of doing it that way
but i will look and see if there is room
This loco does have pickup problems
From what i can tell only the front 2 right side pilot wheels pick up. Not the drivers
and i don't understand that
I'm trying to figure a way to add weight to the pilot wheels for better rail contact
I Put the Loco on the Programming track Saturday morning and held my breath as i powered up the
system
Thankfully no smoke
The sound came on with a clank of the Johnson Bar then the pumps started running
I gave the whistle a try and was really impressed with the High Bass Speaker
GREAT SOUND
I use decoder pro to Change the address to the road number
and took it for a spin
Sounded great BUT need to work on the electrical pick up
So back to the work bench !
Finished up the Loco side wiring and test fit Tender and Loco
I used the Drawing from Tony's Train Exchange to wire the loco
the only difference is my motors + and - polls were switched
The Step plate looking thing you see between the Loco and tender is actually the wire plugs
Tested the head light and it was bad so i replaced the bulb with a 16 volt bulb
Not as bright but should last longer
Finished up the tender side of the wiring
The automatic wire strippers are really a big help
I used a 2 wire plug and a 4 wire plug between the engine and tender
the 2 wire is for the light and the 4 wire is for the track pick up and motor
The other 2 wire is for the speaker
I Soldered the speaker wires and used shrink wrap to insulate them
after testing i will seal the hole in the base where the wires come out
to make it an air tite baffle
Rather than use the oval speaker i'm going to try a Round High Bass Speaker
I cut a support to hold it steady in the tender
and i lucked out because it does just fit
It comes with it's own baffle
Kinda looks like a bottle cap
I'll use a 2 pin connector for the wires so i can easily swap speakers
rs2mike Thats funny. How did it run before you put the motor in it? Maybe there is something binding in the shaft or something.
Thats funny. How did it run before you put the motor in it? Maybe there is something binding in the shaft or something.
Ok I found the problem ME !
STUPID STUPID STUPID !
There was another loco on the layout bridging the isolation gap which by it's self
was causing a short but it was alowing the Pacific to run slowly for about a foot before
shutting it down with overload protection
once I moved the offending loco back accross the gap and removed the short the Pacific ran
like a dream in both directions
I found the problem by accident when i removed the pacific but the over load light stayed on !!
so i checked the whole layout and sure enough one DCC loco was about one inch too far forward
accross the gap
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
That's odd, the gearing in these was quite well made, although a bit too fast. I would clean the gears thoroughly and regrease, but it sounds more like a running gear or quartering issue, which can be directional in nature.
rs2mike Great job terry. I have used cvbackshop motors a couple times. The current draw is wicked low. I used the heisler motor for my riv heisler and put an n scale decoder in it. I also put a heisler motor in an ahm plymoth diesel switcher. With very little work this has also turned out to be a quiet and slow runner. I think you will be very pleased with your motor. Mike
Great job terry. I have used cvbackshop motors a couple times. The current draw is wicked low. I used the heisler motor for my riv heisler and put an n scale decoder in it. I also put a heisler motor in an ahm plymoth diesel switcher. With very little work this has also turned out to be a quiet and slow runner. I think you will be very pleased with your motor.
The motor is very quiet but i'm having some gear problems
I may have to replace some as it wants to lock up when i change directions
Nice job Terry. Thanks for the picture tutorial. I am saving this for my berk transition.
I made a Speaker face plate out of card board
That fits just under the coal load
I also made a Cardboard shelve for the decoder in the back of the tender above the weights
I plan on adding weight to improve electrical contact
I drilled and tapped the rivet that holds the electrical contact in place and inserted a 2/56 screw for the wire attachment