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1st time DCC user - loco seems sluggish?

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Friday, March 27, 2009 3:49 PM

 The fastest and easiest way to test wiring and track is a quarter test. Power up your DCC system and place a metal object across the rails and it should trip the systems breaker instantly. Try this at different places on the layout. If it does not trip remove the object fast.   Then check your wiring and maybe drop some more feeders to the track buss. Remember to remove the object so your booster can reset.

     Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Delhi, ON
  • 19 posts
Posted by burke19 on Friday, March 27, 2009 12:07 PM
Thanks everybody! I'll look into playing with all the CV's. That should be fun to figure out. I just wanted to make sure that my track wiring wasn't causing any problems before I continue laying & wiring the remainder of my track. Thanks!
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Elyria, OH
  • 2,586 posts
Posted by BRVRR on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 9:57 PM

The decoders furnished with most of the Bachmann "DCC" equipped locomotives is a simple low-end Lenz decoder. They are, at least for me, notorious for their poor motor control. But that can be exacerbated by a poorly operating loco.

These low cost decoders don't have a lot of functions or many adjustable CVs. Most don't offer speed tables beyond the linear one built in.

CV2 sets the start voltage. For the Lenz LE1000W decoders, the value for this CV is 1-31, the factory setting is 10. So if your loco isn't starting at step 1, set the value of CV2 to 10 or 11 and see if it starts. If not, increase the setting until the loco just starts to move at step one.

CV3 is Acceleration Momentum. Higher values = slower acceleration. Value of this CV is 1-255. Factory setting is 1. Careful with this one, too high a setting and it can take minutes for the loco to move, even it the start voltage is set right.

CV4 is Brake Momentum. Higher values = longer braking distance when you close the throttle. Value of this CV is 1-255. Factory setting is 1. Same caution for this CV as above, but opposite.

I'm certain Bachmann has the tech manual for their decoders on their site. Check there for your specific decoder. But the above should work. If you can't find anything, join the site's forum and "Ask the Bach Man" for info or technical advice. Asking a question on their forum usually garners and answer in short order.

I have a couple of the Bachmann "DCC" equipped decoders in service on the BRVRR. They are adequate for some uses, in a Shay which is low speed anyway, for instance. But they are woefully inadequate for a quality locomotive IMHO.

Try adjusting the CVS above. You should get passable performance with some tinkering.

Good luck!

 

Remember its your railroad

Allan

  Track to the BRVRR Website:  http://www.brvrr.com/

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 3:28 PM
You should run the engine at half power for about an hour and break it in. Every 10 minutes or so reverse speed. They typically quiet down and run better after that time. Engines that come packaged with a controller are usually introductory and have a short life span and marginal performance. You get what you pay for. If you decide you like DCC simply upgrade to a higher level engine. The performance will be night and day. Good Luck

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Posted by cudaken on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 8:04 PM

burke19
The loco is set for 126 speed steps, and the loco doesn't seem to want to move at all until I have the throttle up to around 45 of the 126 steps

 

 Burke, is it the engine that came with the Dynamis? If it is it is pretty much the lowest you can go on the DCC Bachmann end of engines. One of the draw backs to the Dynamis is the fact you cannot read what the engines decoders CV are set at.

 Different starting speeds are normal depending on the decoder and power draw of the motor. Few case, my Athearn RTR fleet takes around 25% power to getting them moving. My Proto 2000's take 18% and by BLI takes 8%.

 If you turly want to enjoy your DCC system and what changing CV's can bring. Look at the Digitrax PR 3. http://www.digitrax.com/prd_compint_pr3.php

 I bought a DCC syatem that cannot read CV settings. I came darn close to buying the Dynamis being a E-Z command fan. But, after seeing what a PR 3 can do, why spend the extra money for a CV reading system. Set a engine on the PR 3 track and read all the CV's on your computer screen.

 Still a Bahmann fan.

                    Cuda ken

 

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 5:35 PM

 I do not know what decoder is in the Bachman locos but most decoders need some sort of tweeking. Look in the Dynamis manual to see if you can read and adjust CVs The basic CVs to change for motor control are CV29 configuration CV2 start voltage CV3 acceleration momentum CV4 deceleration momentum CV5 top speed and CV6 mid speed. As a beginer you should not need to get into the fancy speed curves and such some are into. I have been doing DCC for 10 years and I still use the straight line throttle settings.

        Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Delhi, ON
  • 19 posts
1st time DCC user - loco seems sluggish?
Posted by burke19 on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 5:05 PM

Hello.  I finally got enough track laid & wired to try my new Bachman Dynamis DCC with a new Bachman locomotive.  The loco is set for 126 speed steps, and the loco doesn't seem to want to move at all until I have the throttle up to around 45 of the 126 steps.  Now, since I have no frame of reference, I was just wondering if this sounded normal, or if I have a problem with something (ie wiring, track cleanliness, wheel cleanliness)??  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

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