I have had that happen to s SoundTraxx decoder. I cut back the shrink just enough to expose the spot needed to solder the wire. Exposing the whole decoder is usually not neccessary. Some decoders like the Micro-Tsunami have a heat sink up against the decoder that is held in place by the shrink.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Some decoders don't even come with shrink wrap, so it should be ok. A piece or two of kapton tape across the bottom would keep the decoder from shorting on a metal chassis.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
As long as the decoder won't get shorted out, leave the wrapper off. A piece of tape will work if you are concerned.
Should I replace shrink wrap? I'll try not to make too big of a flap.
Bob
If you're good enough at soldering and have a small enough soldering iron, go for it. Not much other choice. Decoders are mostly surface mount so the area to attach the wire is quite small. Be careful not to bridge to any other pads or connections.
How do I reattach a headlight lead to heat shrinked decoder? Is it ok to trim flap back and solder lead to pad?