Converting a few locos to DCC

[rrlcommish]

Since I am converting to DCC, and I only have one DCC and sound equipped loco, a Proto 2000 U28B (that works fantastic with a Quantum Engineer, I might add...neat toy for DC-ers), I need to upgrade a few other locos.  First up is a Proto 1000 F3A and B pair.  The instructions tell you how to upgrade, and it looks ridiculously simple, but what decoder?  I am really hooked on the sound thing and would like to add sound if not too difficult.  Same with another loco, a Proto 2000 S1.  The other loco is a Bachmann Spectrum 44 tonner.  Is this one even worth upgrading?  Again, if so, what decoder?  Should I upgrade lights to LEDs while I'm at it?   That is a little more involved and involves soldering in resistors, correct?  Any and all suggestions are welcome and appreciated.  Thanks!  Jim

[tstage]

Jim,

to the world of DCC!   Just a couple of things to add to what David has already said. 

Your Proto 2000 S1 will need to have the motor isolated from the frame BEFORE you install a decoder in it.  Otherwise, the decoder will go *poof*.  And, just in case that may sound daunting to you, here's a link to Randy (rrinker)'s handy how-to pictorial for doing that:

Decoder install for Proto 2000 S1

Just the first few pictures deal with isolating the motor from the frame.  You can choose a different decoder to install than the one Randy used.  I think I used a Z-scale decoder in mine and didn't have to remove any of the frame weight.  The above pictorial is several years old.  And even Randy has stated that he'd use a different decoder if he were to do it again.

As far as headlights, LEDs are the way to go.  They are very directional, put out a strong beam, and won't deform the shell by overheating.  Yes, you'll have to solder in a resistor but the efforts are well worth it.

For your steam and early diesels, go with the "golden-white" or "Yeloglo" LEDs rather than the regular white LEDs.  The golden-white LEDs have a slightly yellowish tint to them, which is very prototypical of headlights of that time period.

Jim, keep us posted on your progress and be sure to post a picture of your first decoder install.

Tom

[rrinker]

 I PROMISE I will soon get to doing my other one and post pictures of the RIGHT way to put a decoder (and LEDs) in the S-1. The part about the orange wire still stands, but filing the weight to put in a DH163L0 is kind of silly.

                                   --Randy