Hello,I just installed some atlas switches and ganged the switch controllers together.The 1st switch works but the second and third and fourth do not. I wired them according to thedirections. Not sure what is wrongAny help would be greatThanksArt
Electricity is apparently not passing through from the first switch. Double-check your connections between the first and subsequent controllers and make sure the screws are tight.
I throw those Atlas switches away and use single-pole, double throw, center off, momentary toggle switches because the Atlas push buttons tend to stick and burn out switch motors.
Hi!
On my recently demo'd DC powered HO layout, I had many Atlas turnout and other switches in place.
I encountered the same problem you did on one 6 switch stretch, and easily solved it by wiring the two power wires to not only the left side of the string, but the right side as well. If this doesn't work, narrow it down til you find the culprit and "fix it" with a ball peen hammer.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Even if you succeed in getting them to work,I suggest that you still throw them away.These are potential problems waiting for the most frustrating time to act up on you.Then...you decide.
Two best investments you can make with using Atlas turnouts: real momentary toggle switches, and a capacitor discharge power supply liek the Circuitron Snapper. The toggles will be way mor ereliable than the Atlas controls, and the CD supply will make sure the switches throw every time, and not burn out if you hold the control too long. They're super easy to build you own, a good beginner electronic project, but if you aren't comfortable there are commercial ones.
In N scale it's even worse, I used ot burn up switch motors on Atlas turnout all the time, even though I was careful to use only short duration button presses. I built a CD power supply and hooked it up - and never burned out another one ever again.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I agree with Randy and the others who recommend not using these Atlas buttons. I used to have them on my layout 40 years ago. They would occasionally hang up in the active position and burn out a switch machine. When I came back to the hobby 4 years ago, I bought all new track and turnouts. And, I found that the quality of these button units hasn't gotten any better.
The Capacitive Discharge circuit is also a great insurance policy. I built one for a few dollars, even buying the parts from Radio $hack. If you build it yourself, a CD circuit is cheaper than replacing even one switch machine.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley I agree with Randy and the others who recommend not using these Atlas buttons. I used to have them on my layout 40 years ago. They would occasionally hang up in the active position and burn out a switch machine. When I came back to the hobby 4 years ago, I bought all new track and turnouts. And, I found that the quality of these button units hasn't gotten any better. The Capacitive Discharge circuit is also a great insurance policy. I built one for a few dollars, even buying the parts from Radio $hack. If you build it yourself, a CD circuit is cheaper than replacing even one switch machine.
Add my vote to 'fixing' Atlas switch controllers with a hammer (and plucking anything that might be potentially useful out of the wreckage.)
What Mister Beasley didn't mention is that he had a control panel switch stuck for several days, running through the CD circuit, and didn't fry anything! THAT is insurance!
Personally, I use the hot probe method - a probe (stereo plug) on a wire of comfortable length, and studs (brass machine screws) in the control panel's track diagram. The probe goes to the hot side of the switch machine power source (CD output, if one is used) and the studs are wired to the switch machine coils. The switch machine common wires go to the 'common' side of the power source to complete the circuit. I defy anyone to have accidental continuity (the kind that fries switch machine coils) with a hot probe.
Failing to get continuity when you want to throw a switch is an annoyance. Having continuity through a switch machine when you don't want it is a major problem, to be avoided at all cost.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with twin-coil switch machines)
Well if your control panel is more flat than vertical and you just tossed the probe on top of it...
Every time you idiot proof something, the world invents a bigger idiot.
rrinker Well if your control panel is more flat than vertical and you just tossed the probe on top of it... Every time you idiot proof something, the world invents a bigger idiot. --Randy
Randy, if my panels weren't within a few degrees of vertical my aisleways would be impassable!
Actually, I have a 'dead' stereo jack in the side of the panel enclosure. Lots better than letting the probe hang free.
I'd been blaming God for making better fools to trump my foolproof methods - say, by holding the probe on a stud while talking on a cell phone...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)