Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

CONVERTING FROM INCANDECENT TO LED?

1079 views
3 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • 18 posts
CONVERTING FROM INCANDECENT TO LED?
Posted by JFETTER2 on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 6:12 PM

 WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT CHANGING OUT STADARD LIGHT BULBS IN LOCO'S AND REPLACE THEM WITH LED'S?

Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,249 posts
Posted by tstage on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 6:26 PM

JF2,

Are you going to use these for headlights?  If you're talking HO, you'll want 3mm LEDs.

LEDs are diodes so current can only travel through them in one direction.  (Otherwise, it won't light up at all.)  They also need resistors soldered to them if they are connected to voltage higher than 1.5V.  (Otherwise, it'll go *poof*.)

I like to use LEDs for headlights but incandescent bulbs for exterior and interior lighting of buildings.  Incandescents work better than LEDs when it comes to Mars Lighting.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorful Colorado
  • 8,639 posts
Posted by Texas Zepher on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 7:02 PM

JFETTER2
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT CHANGING OUT STADARD LIGHT BULBS IN LOCO'S AND REPLACE THEM WITH LED'S?

The best way is to do a lot of preparing and planning and depends on a lot of factors that you haven't even hinted at including the type of model.  I've got Stewart FTs down to an assembly line procedure I could probably do in the dark.

1.  Are the trains powered by DC, AC, DCC, or what?

2. Do you want the lights to be on constantly or controlled by a DCC decoder?

3. Measure the power to the current bulb.  Voltage.

4. Select diodes to be used.  I prefer the day-glow.  These are normal white (nasty blue-white things) LEDs with a yellow tinted lens embedded in the plastic case.

5. Get appropriate resistors to match the voltage and limit the current going to the LED. Often a 1000 ohm resistor will be a general purpose.  The perfect size is determine by the voltage and how brightly you want the LED to glow.  The smaller the resistor value the brighter the LED will glow until such time it blows out.  I like to add resistance until I can see the LED dim just slightly.  That way I know it is slightly current starved.

6. Figure out how to mount the diodes.

7.  Wire the resistor in series with the diode. 

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 8:08 PM

 For DCC, a 1K resistor is good with most white-type LEDs. To run on DC though, a 1K resistor will keep the LED mostly off until you are at full throttle. 680 or 750 ohm is better for DC, the LED will light up without going warp speed, and it will still be at a reasonably safe current level when you do crank it wide open.

                                                  --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!