Selecting the correct decoder for a locomotive

[MrMick]

 At some point I am going to have to purchase decoders for my locomotives. I will be using a Model Rectifier Corp Prodigy DCC system.  Do I have to use MRC decoders? How do I determine what decoder to use? ( I read one article that said to select a decoder based on the current rating higher than the stall rating of the locomotive - still a legitimate consideration?).

 

[MrMick]

 Thanks for the offer of help, I certainly can use it.

First: too late for the MRC Decoder advice, I bought one because it had a 9- pin plug; it is a model MRC 1651. However, I have no problem purchasing a different kind if that will result in a better installation. At this point I have the MRC Express DCC system and I intend to purchase another controller, either the Advance or the Wireless. The layout I am planning is a small one, so hopefully this approach will be satisfactory.

Locomotive # 1: An older Model Die Cast Roundhouse kit of an RS-3.  No discussion of DCC in the instructions for the kit.

Locomotive #2: An Atlas model of an H16-44; box indicates an Atlas Dual-Mode 4 function decoder is installed. ( Sounds like I am all set with this one, for now)

Locomotive # 3: An Athearn RS-3 Locomotive. Instructions refer to installing a DCC decoder with a "9 Pin :Plug" ( Hence, the MRC 1651 I picked up) ( What would be better?)

Locomotive #4: An Atlas S-2 Switcher, approx 2 years old, no mention of DCC anywhere.

Locomotive # 5; A Proto 1000 DL-109; no mention of DCC anywhere in instructions.

 Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated

Regards,

Mr. Mick 

 

 

[Paul3]

#1: Yeah, it came out before DCC was even invented.  It'll be a "hardwire job" where you'll have to do some work to get it going with DCC.  You have to isolate the motor from the frame, then solder the gray wire to the bottom of the motor/brush contact and solder the orange wire to the top motor/brush contact.  Then you have to solder the red wire to the truck contacts and the black wire to the frame.  Then you have to tuck all this into the shell without getting any wire into the drive parts along with the decoder.  It's not an installation for a rookie.

#2: Yes, Atlas H16-44's in the "Master" line already have a decoder in them.  But you must pop the shell off and move the jumper over for DCC.  These are "Dual Mode", and it's a plug that changes it from DC to DCC.

#3: I'd recommend something like a Digitrax DH123D or something similar from NCE or Lenz.  There's a little tray in the model built to hold a DH123D-size decoder, so it's a simple install.

#4: I'd buy the Tony's Train eXchange/NCE decoder made for these models.  IIRC, it's called an Atlas S1/2/3/4 decoder at www.tonystrains.com  This is also an interesting install, especially if you want a rear headlight.  It involves removing the motor and putting a special tape to isolate bottom of the motor (supplied with the decoder along with a plastic screw.

#5: Again, a DH123D-type decoder for a "hardwire job".  It involves cutting traces on the circuit board and soldering some decoder wires into the board's holes.

Good Luck!

Paul A. Cutler III
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Weather Or No Go New Haven
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[Paul3]

David,
AFAIK, there are no interior differences between Atlas S-units of different eras or P1K DL109's of different releases.  I've done old Roco-powered S-units and new Chinese S-units and they both get decoders in the same way.  The DL109's have, IIRC, the board with the cuttable traces and some solder pads, and AFAIK they didn't change them between runs (there's only been 3 runs I believe).

Paul A. Cutler III
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Weather Or No Go New Haven
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[rrinker]

 Yeah, the DL109 has cuttable traces - I just stripped out the board and hardwired a D13SRJ in place, replacing the headlight with an LED. I didn;t take pics of that one, I may have left the board but hardwired to the track pickups and motor leads, using the board as a shelf to hold the decoder. Don't exactly remember, but it was easy.

                                              --Randy

[armchair]

davidmbedard

 Could be, but NCE makes a drop in for the Atlas units.......I thought I came across a DCC ready version somewhere..

David B

David, Paul is right, I just got 2 of the NCE dec,'s for the Atlas S series switchers ,it is NOT a drop in ,the motor has to be removed,insulated & refastened with a plastic screw . I haven't started on mine yet, but it  looks interesting. To the O.P. ,if You don't have reasonable soldering skills You might keep this one on hold until You're skills develop. These switchers are definately worth the effort it takes to convert them as these little jewels should be amazing when converted & "dialed in". Good luck to 'Ya. Randy...