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Decoder Installation Info

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  • Member since
    January 2009
  • 2 posts
Decoder Installation Info
Posted by owen&noah on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 4:52 PM

I am just now starting an HO layout after a 30 year absence from the hobby.  However, I have been purchasing some things along the way.  I have two locos that I purchased in the mid-90's that I am looking for instructions on how to install decoders with sound.  They are:

         Life-Like Proto 2000  GP-18  (High Nose)                                                                   

        Bachmann Plus Class J  4-8-4 Item No. 11315

Thanks for any help!

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Elyria, OH
  • 2,586 posts
Posted by BRVRR on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 9:28 PM

Owen & Noah,

 I can't speak to the P2K GP18, but I can tell you that shoe-horning a sound decoder and speaker into a P2K-GP7 is a nightmare. In the older model that I have it will require major surgery to the chassis weight to make room for a speaker.

Some of the newer, model specific sound decoders from Soundtraxx or Digitrax may alleviate the process, but I haven't looked into it with enough detail to recommend a decoder.

I have an older Bachmann Niagara that is essentially the same as your Class J, 4-8-4. It too has a split frame which makes the conversion to DCC tedious, but not difficult. I split the frame, wrapped the motor in electrical tape and soldered a small wire extension to the motor contacts and insulated the whole assembly.

I installed an MRC 1627 Steam Sound Decoder in the tender, together with the speaker supplied with the decoder. My Niagara's tender has a speaker grille in the bottom and a clip/tray for mounting the speaker and decoder inside. I wired the decoder per the instructions, just with extended wires to and from the loco. I bundled the wires and passed them through a hole in the front of the tender.

You may not have to split your frame. I have found that the motor in my grandson's Daylight is isolated from the frame (also split). The end bells on the motor are plastic. The split frame clamps onto them to hold the motor in place. Just the small clips on the motor contact the frame for electrical pick-up.

Take the shell off of your loco. Place an insulator, a small bit of styrene or tooth pick, under the motor contacts on either side. Just make sure they are no longer in contact with the frame. Then check for electrical continuity between the motor shell and the loco frame. If there is no continuity, the motor is isolated and all you have to do is solder your motor leads to the clips on the motor and then ensure the clips are bent away from the frame or insulated so they cannot make contact. Then proceed as above with your choice of decoder.

My Niagara runs well and sounds awesome. Not proto-typical perhaps, but impressive on the BRVRR with an 8-car passenger train.

An easier solution for the steamer might be to get one of the newer Bachmann DCC equipped locos and just plug in a sound decoder. They are available for under $100 without sound. A Soundtraxx DSD-100LC steam decoder can be had for $50 or so from several dealers and would plug right into the 8-pin socket in the DCC equipped loco's tender.

Whatever you decide, good luck and I hope this helps some.

Remember its your railroad

Allan

  Track to the BRVRR Website:  http://www.brvrr.com/

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Thursday, January 29, 2009 9:48 AM

 The P2K will be extremely difficult to install sound into because there's no room for a speaker.

The Bachmann can have the decoder and speaker installed into the tender, but then you'll have to run wires between the tender and locomotive for the power pickups, motor, and headlight.  That will require at least six wires between the two, and you'll have to totally disassemble the locomotive chassis in order to connect the decoder's output to the motor.  Disassembly requires removal of all the side rods.

If you must have sound, consider purchasing newer locomotives that are "sound ready" or have sound already factory installed.

P.S.:  Why did you post this question twice?  Once would have been more than sufficient.

 

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