Very limited, too - as the Tortoise only passes about 15ma, WELL below the maximum a typical red or green (or bicolor) LED can handle. Like just about anything, running the LED at something less than the maximum rating should greatly extend the already long life. LEDs do fail, but it takes a LOT of hours or a wiring mistake.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BlueHillsCPR LED's typically last a really long time unless you put too much current through them. In this case they should be fine for years.
LED's typically last a really long time unless you put too much current through them. In this case they should be fine for years.
The beauty of the simple method is that the Tortoise acts as a current limiter with no further devices or work
Cal
claymore1977how many LED failures have you seen in this fashion?
I have been using two Radio Shack Bicolor LEDs # 276-012 (one at the console and the other at the switchpoints) with my Tortoise Slow Motion Switch Machines. I have had only one LED failure in fifteen years of service. That's out of a total of 34 of the LEDs on my layout. Admittedly, the layout is not powered up everyday, so the total hours of LED service is somewhat less than would have occurred had the layout been powered continuously.
Simple can definetly be better. I do have a question Jim & Bluehills: Since the LED being in series with the motor creates a situation where if a LED fails, the tortoise will be limited to one way movement only or no movement at all.... how many LED failures have you seen in this fashion?
The not-so-simple solution that I use is:
This diagram shows the Tortoise in both positions. Basic functionality is that the DPTP relay in the tortoise reverses the polarity on the line leading to my LED(s). Using 1 BiColor LED works just as well as using two single color LEDs.
My reasoning for using this setup is that I try to keep all my two color signal controlled by two wires. I am able to keep the wires better managed like this.
Dave Loman
My site: The Rusty Spike
"It's a penny for your thoughts, but you have to put your 2 cents in.... hey, someone's making a penny!"
I use bi-color LED's and just wire them in series between the toggle and pin #1 of the Tortoise. No resistors are needed, and the only issue is if you get the red/green out of sync with the turnout points(reverse the leads to the LED). The neat thing about his arrangement is that the LED will 'dim' as the Tortoise is moving(verification), then 'pop' to the other color.
..and yes, some things are that simple!
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I like this method for adding panel indicators to the Tortise.
Wiring Panel LED's in series with the Tortise
A few clarifying questions:
1) Is this the wiring schematic for the tortoise that you are using?
2) If so, are you using terminals 2-7 for anything?
3) Are the red/green LEDs you speak of a single Bi color LED or One Red and one Green LED?
I am not a big wiring guru, but have been able to wire the digitrax DCC very easily and 6 tortise machines quite sucessfully.
I now have decided it is time to begin working on the control pannel of my layout. I also decided that I would like to have LED lights to indicate which way mainline switches are positioned. now the question.
While studying the diagram for the tortise, it seems that to insert the LED light, it is just inserted inbetween one wire from the switch to the machine, is it really this simple??
When wiring the LED light, do you solder it to the wire? or wire nut? or another connection?
I am using suitcase connectors for the wires off the main Tortise power lines.
I have DPDT toggle switches, and plan on using the red/green LED from Radio Shack with LED holders to kind of dress it up.
Thanks for your help.
Chuck