Need to do a little soldering on the PC board of a PK 2000 SD-7. (see other post about plastic push on clips that hold wires to PC board)
I bought a 15 watt iron today so I don't have to use my 35 watt iron.
Will Alligator clips work as a heat sink? Will cutting the teethe off help controlling the heat transfer? I will be soldering the wires from the trucks to the PC board.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
In a nut-shell, yes and yes.
However, if you are good at soldering quickly, you shouldn't need them. By quickly I mean put the iron on the joint and start counting seconds. Apply the solder. When the solder flows and it looks good, remove the iron. If you can do this at or before you get to the count of five, you will be OK without heat sinks.
Practice it if you can.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I use them because they are great at holding things in place and they work good as a heat sink.. I find them especially useful when soldering feeder wires to track.
Greg Amer
The Industrial Lead
I have heard of people using alligator clips for heat sicks, but with solid copper wire attached to provide even more efficiency! I have never personally tried it so am not able to say whether or not it actually helps, but the theory sounds right..
Sam
May He bless you, guide you, and keep you safe on your journey through life!
I Model the New Hope & Ivyland RR (Bucks County, PA)
Funny this post came back up tonight. I did the repair today and the SD 7 is running fine. You folks are not use to hearing things went well for me are you?
To be on the safe side, I stipped off 2 inches of coating from # 18 gage wire, fold the strans over 3 times and clamped it on the PC board with the clip.
Glad to year the operation was successful and the patient is doing fine!
Using stranded wire, fanned out, as a heat sink.... heh, now that is nearly on par with MacGyver. Good one!
Dave Loman
My site: The Rusty Spike
"It's a penny for your thoughts, but you have to put your 2 cents in.... hey, someone's making a penny!"
Congrats Ken.
If it's something I know is going to be particularly hard to solder, I put a damp cotton ball in the mouth of the clip.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Almost anything metal will work. But before you get to that, follow some basics for soldering. Keep the tip clean and do so every time you lift it out of the cradle. Probably the most common problem in soldering is a faulty joint caused by poor heat transfer from the tip of the iron to the items being soldered. If you don't have a "solder spunge", make one by folding up a paper towel to about 2 by 2 and soaking it in water. Each time you go to make a solder connection, wipe the tip over the wet towel to clean. This will keep the heat time on your connections to a minimum and may, in many cases, relieve the need for a heat sink at all. Your solder joints should be shiny and smooth. Practice helps. Good luck!