pitshopOK, you railroading geniuses out there...you've helped a bunch so far, so don't stop now!! I've decided for my first layout, it'll be the old Oregon Pass LIne, but I'm going to tweak it with at least 22" curves and a better yard, but I need to know what to research for the wiring. The Atlas book has the old school wiring, but I want to have DCC. What do you suggest for learning about wiring? There's about 100 different books on the subject and since I have 100 different books on LAYOUTS already, I didn't want to do the same on wiring!! Also, does anybody have a favorite on brand of DCC locos? I'm going with the Seaboard Coastline scheme, so it'll be late 60's/early 70's styles. I don't know enough yet to know what engines were made then or what manufacturer to look at. I want sound and the best realism. THANKS again for all your help! Skip
Basic wiring for DC or DCC is the same. Install feed wires to each section of track so you're not counting on the rail joiners to carry the power. Over time, the joiners will loosen up/get dirt in them and lose contact, giving you dead spots. This usually happens right after you scenic and ballast the area (guess how I know). If you're starting with DC and planning to convert to DCC, install the insulators and wire the blocks as per the plan. Feed each block through a terminal strip, then to its controlling switch. When you convert to DCC, simply remove the wires from the terminal strip going to the switches and connect them together with the feed wire coming from the DCC control station. You'll appreciate this when (notice I didn't say "if") you need to troubleshoot the system. For this reason, even if you're going directly to DCC, you may want to wire and insulate for the block separations.
Far as engines, I like Proto 2000's and 1000's the best. I have yet to have a real problem with one. They seem to draw the less power. BLI on the other hand, all mine are steam and the quality control seem to lack effort. When they run right they are great, good sound as well. But anyone of them as had more down time than all 8 of the Protos.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
rrinkerAll you have to do it make sure the turnouts are lined correctly and keep right on running.
Start with this link:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm
If you're still interested in a reference book, try DCC Made Easy by Lionel Strang.
One of the real good-news stories about DCC is that almost all of the manufacturers put out good products. You don't have to limit yourself to one engine maker. Of course, some models are more detailed than others, or come with better motors or sound systems, but you'll see this difference in the price as well.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
What to do differently is pretty simple. Eliminate the insulated joiners (other than if there is a reverse loop, I don;t have anythign handy with that track plan in it). Make sure there are feeders to the track fairly regualrly - especially with sectional track. Or sodler at least SOME of the rail joints - I don;t recommend solderign ALL of them because if the layout expands or contracts due to temperature or humidity changes (and at temperatures humans can stand, it's always the underlaying benchwork that changes size, NOT the track), there is no room for movement and you coudl end up with kinked rail. Plus I don't like soldering turnouts in place in case you ever need to replace one.
Anyway, the wiring for DCC is MUCH simpler. Connect all those track feeders together to a somewhat heavier pair of wires (the 'bus') which attach to your DCC system. How thick these wires are depends on the layout size. Other than reverse loops, that's all there is to it. If there are reverse loops, they get insulated joiners in both rails at both ends of the loop exactly as shown on the Atlas track plans. However, instead of connecting the feeders to the Atlas cab panel, with DCC you can use a device caleld an auto reverser which will automaically change the track polarity as the train traverses the loop. All you have to do it make sure the turnouts are lined correctly and keep right on running.
As for your locos - you'll need to do some research on what locos the SCL had in that era, and then try to find appropriate models. Or paint them yourself. Proto2000, Atlas, Stewart, Kato, and Athearn are all good brands of locos and for the most part not too hard to install DCC decoders in. If you want ones with sound there's also Broadway Limited and Precision Craft. Some have DCC and sound already in them (so do some models from the other brands), some (Broadway Blue Line) have sound with provisions to add DCC fairly easily.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.