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Gapping turnouts

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  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Saturday, January 10, 2009 12:40 PM

Welcome aboard Sign - Welcome 

If you are using powered frogs, there has to be a rail gap somewhere between the frogs of two turnouts that face away from each other - as in the opposite ends of a passing siding.  If your turnouts have insulated frogs (like the ones the MR crew is using for the Beer Line) it isn't necessary to gap the rails.

That said, there are good reasons to put gaps at every frog regardless of what turnout type you are using:

  • No possibility of messing up by replacing a failed turnout with one that route-selects power.
  • Easier troubleshooting, when searching for that elusive short circuit.
  • Easy installation of signals, if you ever decide you want them.

Since the recommended method for wiring DCC calls for numerous drops from the rails to the power busses, a few insulating gaps that may not be immediately necessary won't cause problems.  Having them from the start might save you some.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • 1 posts
Gapping turnouts
Posted by Moose and bird on Saturday, January 10, 2009 12:18 PM
Hi, This is my first post! I've been an armchair model railroad for several years, and have finally taken the plunge and started building a layout. I'm really bad with electronics. My skill level is screwing in lightbulbs. So I hope someone here can help me out! I'm confused about where to gap track when laying turnouts. This month's instructional video with Jim shows him laying track and turnouts for the Beer Can RR without putting in any gaps. Same thing with the February MR article. But, other websites and articles about track/turnouts say to gap and/or use plastic rail joiners at the point end and to gap/plastic railjoiners when frogs face each other. Which should I do? I'm using code 83 flex track and a combination of turnouts- mostly Walthers/ Sinohara and Atlas, with both insulated and non-insulated frogs. I plan on going with a easy-to-figure-out DCC system. A related question. Is there an advantage to using insulated vs. non-insulated turnouts in any particular type of location? i.e. the "lead" turnout for a yard ladder or as part of a passing siding? Thanks so much! Moose

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