Probably. But better safe then sorry. It's moved to more of an annoyance thing and less of a cost thing now, with good decoders available for $12. But back when the decoders cost more than two BB locos, blowing a decoder was something to avoided at all costs. We're spoiled by $12-20 decoders, there was a time when they were more like $50-75, and that was NOT with sound!
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
OK, thanks for the replies.
I had read a couple comments on other threads where people had concern of the tape not sticking and coming off.
I planned on swapping the top and bottom brass strips to begin with in addition to breaking off the tabs. I like the idea of using the heat shrink on the strip for extra insurance. I have plenty of that stuff laying around too.
I am probably just over concerned with the motor grounding out and then blowing the decoder.
jeffrey-wimberly As long as you remove the tabs that actually contact the bottom of the motor well there shouldn't be any hard contact with the frame. I find all that's needed is just a thin strip of tape (takes about 5 seconds to put in place) on the metal strip between the motor mount holes.
As long as you remove the tabs that actually contact the bottom of the motor well there shouldn't be any hard contact with the frame. I find all that's needed is just a thin strip of tape (takes about 5 seconds to put in place) on the metal strip between the motor mount holes.
What he said. Once you break off the tabs on the bottom of the motor, it can't actually touch the frame anymore, (the copper strip is recessed). The tape is just for peace of mind.
Jay
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I think the liquid electrical tape would tend to wear through/scratch off easier than normal electrical tape.
Ken,
All that needs to be isolated is the lower motor brush contact. I usually pop the motor out of the white clip and solder a wire to the lower motor contact. I then put some 'shrink-wrap' over it and heat it up - it shrinks down on the contact/wire - Done.
Your idea of using the liquid 'dip' stuff should work fine. I would still place a square of black electrical tape on the motor cavity - sooner or later you will have something wear through and short out the world!
Now snap the motor back on the chassis and continue on with your decoder install. Test with an multimeter to make sure you are isolated! I converted my fleet of Athearn 'BB' engines in the mid-late 90's using the above methods. I never thought about the liquid insulation. And I had a couple cans of tool handle 'dip' in the shop that would work as well. Good idea!
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Ken, I haven't tried this , but it should work. If You do, let us know, I have some old BB I will get around to someday.
Has anyone tried using the liquid electrical tape instead of tape to isolate the motor and frame on an Athearn BB loco?
I have some that is intended for marine applications that I have used on my boat. That stuff sticks very well and I thought it might work out better than regular electrical tape. I thought a couple coats of the stuff would do the job.
Any opinions?