would this be a good unit to install a first dcc/sound unit in ? or should I buy another with qsi allready in and just put a decoder in the one i got and run AA lashup,I would think there roomy inside but dont know. only things Ive put sound in were g scale and I think there abit roomy...oh and recomendations welcome...thanks Jerry
ops ,this is a ho scale E7
I have done this install quite easily with a Soundtraxx decoder. In the past, they made a decoder exclusively for this animal and if you can find one through the auction sites its pretty slick. It was one of my first and it went so well i did it again so now I have an ABA thats powered on the A's only. I will probably cause myself problems when I start getting it actually working for a living, so I am prepared to turn it into an AB powered.
DB
some how I assumed they were dcc ready ,no its not in my hands yet delivery coming thurs . but yes I can solder,tin wires ,use a heat sink ect. but my eyes not so good any more .....now I do have a matching shell for my road so I could get a e7 proto with qsi already in it an just put a motor decoder in in the one thats coming for a AA set. I think I better get one of those magnifers to deal with the job though. is the qsi thats in the p2k the same as the revelution ?and will any cheaper motar decoder work in a lash up with a unit w/qsi s/dcc in it ? see no reason to have sound in both...well thanks for info Ill keep reading..Jerry
Extra space tip, in case you need it - ditch that huge DC circuit board and hard wire the decoder. If your model has a Mars light, replace the odd double filament bulb with a normal one and use the mars light effect in the decoder - pretty much any decoder's Mars effect will be better than the P2K blink back and forth between two filaments method.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I think if I tare in to one of thease I would go with leds any how ,so much better than the little bulbs...Jerry
My standard is to use LEDs as well, but any function that relies on dimming the bulb for the effect generally works better with an actual incandescent bulb. LEDs don't dim very well. There some decoders that can do a decent job of dimming an LED by varying the duty cycle (essentially flashing the LED at a high rate - the more the 'off' time, the dimmer it appears) but that really complicates the Mars light effect which involves gradually dimming the light and flashing it on full brightness. At least for that I would recommend a bulb. The regular headlight, use an LED there.
I've done a couple E-8 sound installs. I used the Soundtraxx 1st gen diesel decoders. I put a second speaker in the B unit, and connected them with a Miniatronics mini connector. Works fine. I also saved and used the mars light board. I'm OK with the two filament bulb thing. Looks OK to me. I'm not a rivet counter, and my non railroader visitors don't know the difference. It's no worse than a single bulb going bright and dim.
The Soundtraxx 1st Gen Diesel decoders actually make transition from parallel to series operation, while the QSI phony sounds just rev up.