cudaken Jeff, when you mount yours, do you have the bulb touching the shell?
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jeffrey-wimberlyI wire in 12 volt bulbs and don't have a problem with them burning out quickly. In fact, I have yet to change a 12 volt bulb that I've wired to a decoder. Now if you wire DH123 (or a DH163 for that matter) to the low voltage bulbs that come with many locos today they'll blow every time. 12 volts vs 1.5 volt bulb = flash bulb!
Thanks Jeff and all the other kind folks that took time to answer.
Jeff, when you mount yours, do you have the bulb touching the shell?
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
MisterBeasley As I recall, I get slightly more than 12 volts AC when I put my meter across my DCC tracks. Of course, that's just a simple AC voltmeter, and isn't designed to measure the "true" modulated square wave voltage of the DCC signal. Also, my Lenz system recommended different input voltages for different gauges, N, HO and O, which I assume would result in different track voltages as well. What I don't have a handle on, though, is just what the "true" DCC track voltage is. Does anyone know, and how did you come by the information?
As I recall, I get slightly more than 12 volts AC when I put my meter across my DCC tracks. Of course, that's just a simple AC voltmeter, and isn't designed to measure the "true" modulated square wave voltage of the DCC signal.
Also, my Lenz system recommended different input voltages for different gauges, N, HO and O, which I assume would result in different track voltages as well.
What I don't have a handle on, though, is just what the "true" DCC track voltage is. Does anyone know, and how did you come by the information?
It depends on your system - some are varied with an internal adjustment, some have a CV on the command station that sets the track voltage, some have a switch on the front (Digitrax boosters also have an internal adjustment, not just the switch on the front). There is no "DCC voltage" that's the same for everyone. To see what you are truly getting on the track, there is a simple circuit with didoes, a resistor, and a capacitor that you can hook between the track and your standard meter to get an accurate reading, or you can buy the RRampmeter from Tony's which is essentially a volt and amp meter with this circuit already in it.
As for the source power supply - it's a good idea to keep this just slightly above the desired track voltage, for those systems which have a setting for that. ie, Digitrax booster put about 12 volts to the rail on the N scale setting. While the booster can handle up to a 22 volt input, you would be wasting almost half of the imnput power as heat, causing the booster to run hotter than it should and resulting in it not being able to put out a full 5 amps before shutting down. The standard power supply they sell is 15 volts, which works for the N scale and HO settings (about 14.5 volts to the rail in the HO setting) but would be insufficient for the O/Large Scale setting (18 volts to the track).
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
MisterBeasleyBut, as long as you're in there, why not install LEDs and do away with the problem? Get a golden-white (or yellow-white) LED for each headlight. Install it in series with a 1K resistor between the LED and the decoder. You will end up with a brighter headlight that will probably still be burning bright when you turn 80
MristerBeasley, reason I don't want to use LED's is because I was hoping for a simple fix. At this point again I sort of wish I had stay DC, there seems to be no simple solutions for DCC questions. I will see if there are any 16 volts bulbs Friday.
Confused again Cuda Ken
I wire in 12 volt bulbs and don't have a problem with them burning out quickly. In fact, I have yet to change a 12 volt bulb that I've wired to a decoder. Now if you wire DH123 (or a DH163 for that matter) to the low voltage bulbs that come with many locos today they'll blow every time. 12 volts vs 1.5 volt bulb = flash bulb!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
What David said, they are both the same in that respect. Both will output approximately track voltage on the functions. The only 163 series decoder that has any sort of limiting for the headlight function is the DH163L0 for Proto2000 locos. All other 163 and 123 decoders put out the exact same thing to the function leads - track voltage.
I'm not sure exactly what voltage they put out, but if you're running 12 volt bulbs at 12 volts, they will burn out a lot more quickly than if you run 16 volt bulbs at 12 volts.
But, as long as you're in there, why not install LEDs and do away with the problem? Get a golden-white (or yellow-white) LED for each headlight. Install it in series with a 1K resistor between the LED and the decoder. You will end up with a brighter headlight that will probably still be burning bright when you turn 80.
After the kind answer about decoders needed to hard wiring Athearn Blue Box engines and still not completely sure about light bulbs I called Digitrax help desk. Kind folks here said a Digitrax DH163AT would work and rep say it would as well, great. I then asked what cheaper decoder would work and I was told a DH123AT would work with 12 volt bulbs. Nothing needed to be added, just wire it in.
Went to LHS shop and was told 123's eat light bulbs and 163's change the voltage on there own so they will burn out bulbs quickly? Is that right? Did Digitrax tell me what I wanted to hear?
Forget about the Blue Box engines for this next question.
I have 2 Athearn SD-50's RTR engines with DH123 decoders that head lamps have burnt out. Today I picked up some Miniatronics Lamps, 12 volt 50mA 2.4 Dia. Will they work with the 123's in my SD 50's? I don't want to wast the $8.00 they cost me.
Thanks for the coming answers.