I keep wanting to buy more engines! Stupid part is I have around 30 none DCC engines that I like?
What I want.
1 Quite motors
2 Right headlight and didoes if need.
3 Cheap, if that does not go hand and hand I will opp for the high end ones.
4 IF I HAVE to go with the high end stuff I want, not sure what to call it. It keeps the engine at the same speed going up a grade and down the grade. My PCM Y6-b Lok decoder does it.
So here is the question, using Digitrax Decoders which ones will work. Don't forget match bulbs, that is the main thing that has held me back! As great of a LHS I have, Ken is real week on DCC.
I will not use the old rocket motors, most have been remotor with the F7-A heavy weight Atherns motors. Sorry I could not find the part number, they are about 3 years old and are low power draw.
As a side note, I have 4 PK 2 BL 2's that sure look like a Athearn in side. Will the same decoders work?
By the way, I do know how to ground the motor.
Guessing Jeff has all the answers. Plus Jeff I have not for got, just need to make time to pack the stuff up.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I think what you are looking for is called "Back EMF" or something similar. As far as wireing Athearns for DCC, it is fairly easy. You indicate you already are aware of the motor grounding issue. That is the biggest hurdle in these. For lighting I have done a couple od diferent things in the past. I used small light bulbs that are rated for the voltage. for the front headlight/numberboard I remove the cab from the shell and put a ceiling in the cab. I usually do this by gluing a sheet of styrene to the top of the window "box". I then drill a small hole in this to feed the bulb up into and mount it with a dab of silicone so it does not touch the cab roof (heat issue). Doing this allows the headlights and number boards to light up without lighting the cab. I do something similar for the rear lights as well. In this case I build a small shelf that I mount in the rear of the shell just below the lights and mount the bulb to that. My biggest hurdle is finding a way to mount the decoder in the shell. Usually I just tape it to the top of the motor. As it is right now though I only have 3 Athearns in my collection and those might be going soon.
Dan
From the sound of your last comments, you're going to box your engines up and mail them to Jeff and he is going to install your decoders? If so, why not just pay Jeff for the parts he needs instead of trying to outguess him.
I have installed possibly as many as a hundred decoders for myself and other club members, and nearly every different brand and model of locomotive requires different items, whether it be a different decoder or different resistors, bulbs, or LEDs for lighting.
And then there are a lot of incidentals used, such as various sizes of heat shrink tubing, Kapton tape, double-sided white foam tape, etc.
You mention having P2K BL2s. Do any of them have a mars light? Different decoder required. Mars light bulb must be replaced with a different type.
Sometimes a club member wants me to install a decoder into a locomotive that runs so poorly that it's not worth the cost or effort, or there's absolutely no space for a decoder. Jeff may encounter some from you that are that way.
You should let Jeff select what he needs according to the requirements of each locomotive, and then bill you for the parts he uses.
Another thing I learned early on when I started installing decoders was that many of the older engines I have are simply not worthy of DCC because they don't run well enough to use.
My advice would be to step back and take a long, hard look at your fleet. Do you really run all of these engines on a regular basis, or do you just like their paint scheme? If you don't run them at least monthly, don't put decoders into them. Build a display case and put them aside.
cacole From the sound of your last comments, you're going to box your engines up and mail them to Jeff and he is going to install your decoders? If so, why not just pay Jeff for the parts he needs instead of trying to outguess him.
Cacole, you guess wrong. Jeff sent me a DCC PC board, I going to send him him something in return. i keep for getting to pack it.
I will install the decoders my self, and the ones that I want to install decoders in are all good runners with new motors as stated.
Ken, have you considered the Digitrax DH163AT decoders? They come with a wiring harness that makes a simplified connection to your loco. You will need to remove the brass wipers on the bottom of the motor, and maybe replace the plastic motor mounts as well, but these come wih the decoder. I am installing one this week...I also put a layer of black electrical tape on the frame underneath where the motor sits to make sure its isolated.
cudakenWhat I want 1 Quite motors
So here is the question, using Digitrax Decoders which ones will work. Don't forget match bulbs, that is the main thing that has held me back!
I have 4 PK 2 BL 2's that sure look like a Athearn in side. Will the same decoders work?
BB locos are actually easy. If you don't want to use the Digitrax decoder you cn buy their Athearn harness seperately and use with any decoder that has a 9 pin JST connector. BB locos usually only have one bulb, lighting up the cab, headlight, and everything else. It's already capable of working at DCC voltage. The manual for the DH163AT is online and shows the pieces, I suggest taking a look at it. You can probably see from that how you can do the same thing by soldering any decoder's wires to the various metal tabs in the loco.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
ShawneeHawkDigitrax DH163AT decoders
Thanks for the answer ShawneeHawk, how far are you from Maryville IL? That is where I live and where K-10 model Trains is located,well worth a 2 hour drive to vist. On the decoder, what bulbs will work with it.
Headlight is where I dropped the ball on the post. I want a bright light but not the stock light up the whole cab bulb Athearns Blue Boxes come with. Ken, the owner of K-10 Model Trains could tell me the Decoder I need, but not the blub. Last time I asked about a year ago all he could tell me was "you need to ask the guys" by guys he means fellow customers, not staff, there is none.
All I want for now is a headlight, no ditch, number boards or back up lights.
Zepher, as far as me wanting quite from the Blue Boxes, I mean the motor hum I get when running them on DCC. Ones I do want to up grade are very quite on DC. On the EMF, I don't think that is what make the engine stay at a constant speed but cuts down on motor nosie. I may very well be wrong. Here is my thinking on wanting it. First, lot of the time I just let the engines and watch. If there was a live person in the cab and knew they where getting to head up a grade, the would give the engine a little more gas.
Thanks for all the kind answers as well.
The thing that keeps the motor from humming on DC is "silent running" or "supersonic" or one of any number of words various manufacturers use to describe it. It's independent of Back-EMF. About the only decoders anymore that don't have silent running are those el-cheapo Bachmann ones. Lots have silent running without back-EMF, like the NCE D13SRJ. All current production Digitrax decoders are silent running, as are all TCS and NCE.
Ken,
Quiet motors are provided by 'silent running' or 'super sonic' motor control. Nearly all current production decoders have this feature. There are various names for "keeping the engine at the same speed" , back EMF or 'dither', but again, most current production decoders have this feature. I'm not sure about the DH123 though.
If all you want is motor control and basic lighting the low end decoders will work. I have a bunch of Athearn BB locos and use a lot of DH123D Digitrax Decoders. They work well and are relatively inexpensive. Around 16-dollars each at Litchfield station. They come with a wiring harness but you have to solder the leads in place. The DH123AT decoder comes with a 'snap-on' wiring harness. No soldering so you can save some time. They cost about $2.00 more than the standard DH123D. I'd be leary of poor connections with them.
For lighting, the DH123s have a 12v output to the lighting circuit. You can use the bulb that comes with the loco or any other 12-16v bulb. I usually use the cheap screw base structure lights and a socket. I cover the socket and part of the bulb with black shrink tubing and then put it in place with a dab of hot glue or double backed foam tape. I have used LEDs for lighting too. Just wire in the proper resistor and you are all set.
If you are thinking about Mars lights, ditch lights or any other fancy lighting for the future, then go with a DH163D (about $20.00 at Litchfield Station) or (AT) decoder. Four more functions for the fancy lighting.
You don't have to use Digitrax decoders. Lenz, TCS and others make similar decoders for a competitive price. In fact I use a few TCS decoders on my locos. Similar features and the same 9-pin JST plug that Digitrax uses.
Bruce at Litchfield Station can answer any specific questions you might have and recommend a solution. They also give quantity discounts so you can save even more.
Here's a link: http://www.LitchfieldStation.com
Of course, any reputable shop, on-line or otherwise can get you the decoders you want.
I wish you luck and let us know how you make out.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Here is how I installed a decoder into an Athearn SD40-2. No extra stuff, just the 9-pin harness that comes with a Digitrax decoder. You would be on your own for lights, but they hook up to the proper wires. I've seen a piece of brass tube glued up behind the headlights, reusing the Athearn bulb. Aims and focuses the light, so it looks better.
http://www.fuzzyworld3.com/3um/viewtopic.php?p=9659#p9659
The decoder light outputs put out ~12 volts, so a 1.5 volt bulb won't last long. I have since replaced the decoder with a TCS T1, with the Back EMF. Runs a lot better than the Digitrax DH123. Starts moving on step 1, no adjustments needed. The Back EMF can also be turned off if you wish.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Ken, since you asked, I live southeast of Harrisburg. That is easily a 2 hour drive to Maryville.
I had planned on doing my DH163AT install into an Athearn BB F7 this week, but work keeps getting in the way. Worked this evening, and am on call tomorrow night. Maybe I'll get that install done towards the weekend...
Reason for Digitrax decoder is that is the main one LHS carries.
I am looking at a DH123PS decoder I have in the package, I do not see where it list the headlight out put? All I see is the following.
1.5 Amps/ 2 Amps Peak
2FX3 Functions, 0.5 Amps
Is the headlamp out put listed in the manual, it is still sealed.
Thanks for all the great answers and sure hope yo type faster than I do.
Unless the decoder specifically says it has current or voltage limited outputs, the functions are always at full track voltage, a bit under once internal losses are accounted for, and the outputs are always DC. The only specification normally given for function outputs is the maximum current draw they can handle. This rating is usually a lot like computer pwoer supplies - there will be a number that is the maximum A finction cna handle, and then a total for the decoder that is less than the sum of those. For example, a 4 function decoder might list each function as 100ma max, and a decoder total of 250ma. So and single function output can have a load of up to 100ma connected safely, but if you would connect 100ma to all four functions, total of 400ma, you would damage the decoder if you activated them all.