I use a CMX track cleaning car. The instructions say to use use lacquer thinner as the cleaning fluid, or isopropyl alcohol as a "less aggresive" fluid. After using both, I am much happier with the lacquer thinner. Yeah, it stinks, and if the mice that occasionally get into my house figure out how to unscrew the top and drink the stuff, they will probably develop cancer if they don't fall for the peanut butter in the mousetrap first. But, it does a really good job on the track, far better than the occasional swipe with a Bright Boy.
So, go to the hardware store and get a can of this stuff. If you don't feel like springing for the CMX car, I'm sure a paper towel will do almost as well. (I've got subways, by the way, so I really, really need to do this by train.) But you probably don't have that problem, so head to your LHS (Local Hardware Store,) open the windows and clean up your act.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I agree the track needs cleaning. You probably have some left over flux on the track from when you soldered. Use a track eraser to make sure there isn't a film left over from ballasting and scenery as well.
Springfield PA
In addition to the track, the wheels and the pickups on the locos must also be very clean. A trick to try when the loco stalls is to use a small screwdriver to bridge between the rail and a wheel. This cna help pinpoint the area where there is no contact - be it a dirty spot on the track or a wheel, or a combination - it could be a bad pickup on one side of one loco truck leaving only 2 wheels on one side pickup up any power, and when that truck hits a dirty spot or non-powered frog, there's no longer any power on that side.
And Jeffrey - you don't need to solder your turnouts to the rest of the trackwork if you feed power directly to them
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
A booster will not help this problem. Your problem is dirty track. It must be very clean if you're going to do low speed operation as you describe. Also check to make sure your rail joiners are tight. I solder all my rail joints, including the turnouts. There are those who will say don't solder the turnouts. The way I see it I'm not gonna give old Murphy a place to strike. He can go pick on somebody else's track.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I have a small shelf switching layout 8x10 with peco track and turnouts. I am using the prodigy express system for my DCC control. Every section of track has a drop wire nicely soldered to it from the bus line at least every 4 feet along the main line, sidings, and yard tracks.I have also soldered nearly all of my rail joints together nicely. I get consistent readings on my volt meter throughout the layout that everything is getting power.
My dilema is that when I run my locos at relavtively low switching speeds they cut out. I give them a push with my hand and they pick back up. I run two locomotives at the same time or one at a time and have the same problem. Both are sound locos and are in perfect operation. I have had some trouble with dirty track at times but it seems to be more than that. The track got dirty as I added scenery and weathering to the layout.
Should I invest in a power booster? MRC claims that the express system should easily run two locos on a layout this size.
Do I need look at adding more wire drops to the tracks in place?
Any good tips on cleaning track? I have been using a bright boy and some Walthers track cleaner.
Is there a good rule of thumb on what readings I should look for on the volt meter?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.