In the instructions that comes with the Tony's PS Rev Power Shield Intelligent Reverse Breaker, it states to offset the breaks in the track rails approximately 1/8 inch.
I'm using it at the end of two turnouts where the diverging section becomes the reverse section.
My question is- how important is it to offset the break in the track? I have insulated directly at the end of the diverging section of the turnout. Will this cause any problems.
Also, Why does it tell you to offset the breaks in the rails.
Thanks,
Bill
I didn't offset mine at all, for the same reason as you - the reverse section starts at a turnout.
I have no problems at all because the breaks are not staggered.
I'd imagine that a staggered break would give a "cleaner" signal to the reverser telling it to flip the polarity. That may be why they suggest this.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Call Tony's. They are great at answering question about DCC.
The instructions that come with the PSREv state:
"Perfectly aligned gaps may reduce the current needed for PSRev to reverse properly."
The key operative word here is "may"; meaning simply that it may or may not have an effect, depending on a lot of variables.
I would like to suggest a simple experiment: Connect the PSRev to a section of track with the gaps not staggered and run several different locomotives slowly through the reverse loop section a few times while watching the LEDs on the circuit board. If the LEDs indicate that the PSRev is not rapidly cycling, then staggered gaps are not necessary. If the LED tends to flutter as the wheels cross the gap, stagger them. The staggered gaps should only be necessary when running very, very slowly.
I staggered the gaps on my layout because one of my "reverse sections" is less than two feet long. I used all Peco turnouts and created the staggered gaps by cutting the flex track rails beyond the end of the turnout with a Dremel cutoff disk.
I only wish you coudl still buy them. The 'replacement' product from DCC Specialties does way more than it needs to, at the expense of increased cost AND only cutting power to one rail (for the breakers - the new auto reverser naturally switches both rails, because it has to). Far as I could always tell, the PowerShields cut power to both rails when the breaker tripped - a feature I believe they advertised as an advantage over some other brands.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy,
Isn't The PSX-AR what you are referring to. If so Tony mailed one to me today.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Yes, the PSX-AR is the only one of the new line that disconnects BOTH rails, but it has to in order to auto-reverse. The old PS-1,-2, and -4 and PS-REV disconnected both rails on a short. The PSX-1, -2, and -4 does not.
Maybe it does not really matter, to me they cheaped out, yet it's $10 more than the old product. Maybe I'll just use Dick Bronson's variation on the tail light method - I do not liek just tail lights, that to me allows too much current to flow through the short. Dick's variation uses a PTC fuse to switch between the filaments of a dual-filament bulb - turnign off the high current filament when it trips and thus allowing only a low current to continue flowing - plus keeping the bulb lit. The PTC fuse is 50 cents, less in large quantities, so doing train-length power 'blocks' won't break the budget. I agree with Dick's assessment that 2.1 amps through the short is too much, at 14 volts that's over 28 watts - dare you to hold a 25 watt light bulb in your hand. My 25 watt soldering iron puts out plenty of heat to melt any common plastic. With Dick's version, you end up with 0.4amp flowing after the PTC trips out, less than 6 watts - like the big christmas bulbs. Warm but not plastic-melting hot.
Anyway, this has ranged far off topic, My only real thought is that I wish Tony's still made the original Powershields. I'd gladly use those. The PSX's are to me needlessly complex for the function they need to perform. I suppose I could learn PIC programming and build my own, but a $1 bulb and a 50 cent PTC are even cheaper.