I've used several hundred of the 14 ga connectors with 12 ga wire without problem. You just have to use a little more muscle. However, cutting the insulation probably does help. I would also recommend the 3M IDC's. The Home Depot IDC's aren't as sturdy as the 3M's.
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This subject has been flogged around the fleet several times, once sufficiently recently that search will bring up the thread...
As has been overstated, there are those who swear by suitcase connectors, and those who swear at suitcase connectors. My own position, well documented elsewhere, is this; you will search my layout space in vain for any sign that there has ever been a suitcase connector on my electricals.
Chuck (modeling Cemtral Japan in September, 1964 - with soldered and screw-terminal wiring)
tstageI would go with Joe's method. Hope that helps...
I was looking for and found some info on Joe's method.
Using Suitcase connectors
Just scroll down to find Joe's post on the subject.
A direct quote:
"Actually I buy the cheaper 905 series connectors which are supposed to only be good on 14 gauge bus wire. But I cut a slit through the insulation on the 12 gauge wire and the suitcase connector crimps right on. the 905s would be good for you because they will go down to a 22 gauge tap wire off the bus."
Steve,
I, on the otherhand, have been very happy with them. I use them as a transition between my 14ga track bus and the 18ga feeders going to the terminal strips for my track feeders. The key is to 1) use the right size IDC and 2) make sure that they are crimped correctly. Joe Fugate states that he's been using them for 10+ years and has had nary a problem with them.
The Home Depot in my area (NE Ohio) carries IDCs in the electrical department. They are with the other crimp connectors. The one I use is for 14-16ga (larger) and 18-22ga (smaller).
I would go with Joe's method. Hope that helps...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
yankee flyernever liked suit case connecters
I'll second that. Lots of people use them of course but I can't stand them myself.
Soldering is good if you are good at it and have the tools. Binding posts or terminal strips are two other options that allow easy connection/disconnection.
I'm not overly enthused about suitcase connectors. They're good for temporary use but not much else. I've used them several times in the past and while they were good for the short term I was always having to rework them over the long term. Now I just solder everything. It takes a little longer in the short term and isn't as convenient but I'm not having to chase down loose or corroded connections over time thus saving time for other projects.
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If I am not mistaken, Joe Fugate adapts the connectors intended for #14 bus wires for #12. Check his websire (Google his name, it is easy to find.) While he has had good success, I don't know that I would recommend it. A lot of people are less than convinced about the long term reliability of suitcase connectors. I'm not one of them, but I am fairly convinced that if they are not installed correctly they have a good chance to fail. (And, for example, the Dream-Plan-Build DCC video demonstated them being installed incorrectly.)
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
HiIf you have access to a heavy duty soldering iron you can strip a space on buss and wrap the feeder around it. I resorted to my torch with soldering tip. Just had to watch out for side ways flame. never liked suit case connecters though.Good luck.
Lee
I'm wiring my HO, DCC (NEC-5 amp) powered layout. The layout is around-the-walls in my basement which measures 23 by 24 feet. It is double tracked with 3 sidings on the outside track and 2 sidings on the inside track (using code 83 flextrack, Walthers DCC friendly turnouts, on cork roadbead). Benchwork is 2 feet wide along 3 walls, and 5 feet wide along one wall for 15 feet where the staging yard, 7 stall roundhouse, and 130 foot turntable will be located in Phase II of construction.
I need to run trains around the double tracks and sidings, now, to locate the problem spots in the track and correct them before advancing to ballasting, landscaping, installing structures, and phase II track construction.
I'm using 12 gauge bus wires because someone gave me two big rolls of it - free. I'm using 22 gauge feeders, which I've already purchased. Since I have so many bus-feeder connections to make, I'm using suitcase connectors to connect the 22 gauge feeders to the 12 gauge bus wires.
It has been extremely difficult to find suitcase connectors in my area, Springfield, Ohio. I noticed in the "Micro Mark" catalog, suitcase connectors are offered in bus wire sizes #14-18, to tap with feeder wires sized wire #18-22. They also offer connectors for # 10 - 12 bus wire to tap to #14 to 18 feeder wires. I cannot find suitcase connectors to accommodate #12 guage bus wires to #22 guage feeder wires.
I don't want to go out and spend more money on different size wire. How can I improvise and use the suitcase connectors intended for 10 to 12 gauge bus wire with the #14 to 18 gauge feeder wires?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Steve