Capt.,
Yes, the DCC book by Lionel Strang is the one I have (revised 2005).
When I first got it last year, I studied it pretty good and came to the conclusion that DCC was just over my head. Like I said in another post, I could wire a house, but electronics are my weak point. However, when I realized I will probably be rebuilding my layout, I revisited going to DCC thru various postings in this Forum, and by going over that book again (and again, and again). I find much more of it is clearer to me, but there is still a lot that I don't understand. This whole concept - to do it right - takes a lot of education, questions, and advice from those in the know. Thank goodness for this forum, for without it there is no way I would consider going to DCC.
I'm fortunate in that I have time on my side. The layout rebuild will not start until the Spring, and I've got to demolish the old one (11x15 double level in spare room), complete the new design, build benchwork, lay track, and then do the wiring. Of course when I lay track I will have to know if the layout is DC or DCC, as the blocks will need to be put in place at that time (by this I mean putting in the plastic track joiners at the block separations).
As of now, I lean towards a Digitrax or NCE, mainly because they seem to be the systems of choice for those folks whose layouts are in MR and RMC and GMR, and they have excellent reputations. As I have two 5 amp MRC Controlmaster 20s running my DC layout, I will probably have two 5 (or 8) amp power supplies / boosters on the new DCC layout. As far as blocks are concerned, I may wire it for 4 blocks, but that is just a guess at this time.
Hey, good luck to us on our education and potential switch!!! And again, I wish to thank the folks on this forum who have been so helpful. As I wrote, without them I would not even consider DCC!!!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
I feel your pain...... I've started a couple of related postings concerning starting out in DCC, evaluating systems, etc., etc. And, I've got a lot of good replies with advice and answers.
I've got the Kalmbach BASIC DCC book (2005) and it reminds me of the manuals that used to come with computers years ago. They spent two or three chapters telling you how to open the box, and the remaining chapters were filled with buzzwords and jargon that were totally confusing.
Ok, I'm going overboard here...... The Kalmbach book is really good, and I could see someone revisiting it many many times after they get DCC hooked up. As some folks have mentioned, DCC is a no brainer, just run two wires to your layout and you are in business. Well, that is true to a point. But there is so much more involved.
In example, the quality of your wiring, frequency of feeders to the track, and quality of track connections (and cleaniness of track) are more important with DCC. And then you get involved with setting up blocks, wiring turnouts (are they insulated or not?), reverse loops, turntables, sound, signals, etc., etc.
I do believe I will get into DCC when I rebuild my 11x15 layout after the Holidays, even though I realize that getting it to work properly - including decoder installation and programming - is going to be a major job. Of course those with experience would have a much easier time with the same task, and I certainly realize that when I am finished, I will be much more educated - and what is a major mountain now will be more of a hill when I am done.
Anyway, Kalmbach does have a DCC book (about $18), and while its a few years old the concepts are the same today. I urge you to order one, you won't regret it.
johncolley wrote:...new ...coming out so fast that by the time the book is printed and out the door it is obsolete, ah remember the early computer years?
Jim, Re: q 1 : the problem with all the DCC books I've seen so far are that the upgrades/new models are coming out so fast that by the time the book is printed and out the door it is obsolete, ah remember the early computer years?
q 2: I was visualizing your command/programming station somewhere near the middle of your layout, so think of a "T" for each wire with the leg attaching to your command station and the tops going each way to the ends of the layout. You can use western union splice(soldered) or the simplest is either a terminal block or suitcase connector! Fun, huh? John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
Capt. Grimek wrote:Hi Guys,John, it was "where" does one join the ends of the buss wires that I haven't been able to ascertain from online reading. I'm sure I missed it somewhere but don't know where. I've read through most of the internet sites posted here (thanks) although there were a few "new" ones to me that I'll read today.
The bus wires connect to the two terminals on your DCC controller. They then run under the layout following your trackage. Every so many feet you run wires from the bus wires up to the trackage to give them power. As in DC, just besure to connect one track to the + bus and the other track to the - bus. Except for reverse loops (where you can wire up an automatic polarity changer) you don't have to wire separate blocks like you do in DCC, but you can if you want to.
mfm37 wrote: There seems to be a belief that DCC requires some type of advanced wiring using techniques that are specific to it. The basic principals from DC apply to DCC. It's still just two wires feeding the rails. Only the thing connected to one end of the wires has changed.
The basic principals from DC apply to DCC. It's still just two wires feeding the rails. Only the thing connected to one end of the wires has changed.
Let see such a book would have to include:
1. Follow DCC manufacturer manual to connect power supply to DCC command unit.2. Follow DCC manufacturer manual to hook up throttle/ throttle bus.3. run two wires from DCC controller to track.4. If reversing loops in track follow gapping procedures in DC wiring books and substitute and auto reverse unit for the DPDT switch.5. If using hot frog turnouts follow gapping & extra feeder procedures as described in DC wiring books. 6. If track is long and loco starts hickuping (on clean track) or slowing down at certain spots add a feeder there.7. If bunches of feeders are needed then run a bus to save wire.8. If lots of locomotives and/or trains then break track into separate sections and add extra power boosters.9. Tricks and special things - programming track - using auto bulbs to indicate and mitigate short circuits - using track power for indication - computer interface & control (see manufacturers manual)10. Detection for signalling, offboard sound, and automatic control.
Seems like I'm forgetting something.... Decoder installation? (the "hard part" in my opinion).
Looking at the list that might be one of the reasons there is no book. The "complicated" part of powering the comand station and throttle bus is vendor dependent. That will constantly change with each new product offering.
Have to agree with the above, it's almost not needed at all. Computer of not. People seem to associate DCC with 'complicated' Sure, inside the command station/booster/throttle, what's goign on is WAY more complex than an old basic transformer. But unless you truly are an electronics nut and building your own, you can ignore almost all of that.
In those basic DC books - the examples they have for a single DC cab - follow those. The only real difference comes with a reverse loop/wye situation. For anythign else, at least basic layouts, the wiring can be exacty like a single DC cab, less the various block on/off switches. It only gets slightly more complex with a larger layout and multiple boosters.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ha! Remember Electricity 101 the basic rule: One wire - Hook 'im up! Two wire - Screw 'em up!
Actually. Jim, it is pretty easy. use two colors of 12 or 14 guage for your bus , I use red for the right hand rail Run them all the way from one end of your layout to the other, under the main line, or close to it, but do not join the ends. If you feed them in about the middle, or wherever you plan to have your command station and programming track, you shouldn't have any problems with voltage drop to the ends. Then make your rail feeder drops the same colors, or, since I got partial spools of thermostat wire my drops are red and white. No problem! Make your drops from the middle of each section of flextrack or approx 3 to 6 feet apart, always keeping the red on the right rail! If you happen to cross colors you will have a short and she no go, eh? Treason for so many drops is because rail joiners will oxidize over time and become unreliable for conduction . I don't solder them except on curves for ease of forming. Leave a little room in the joiners for expansion/contraction which can be from either temperature or humidity. In cold/dry weather you will hear the clickity-clack more. Any questions, e-mail me off forum. John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
If you really want a book, I'd recommend Lionel Strang's "DCC Made Easy." I bought a copy at the start of my DCC experience, and found it helpful. It's not so much a "how to" book as it is a reference about DCC and how it works. Understanding that background will give you some insight on why things are done the way they are.
But the basic message that people above have been posting is still correct - it's really just a matter of hooking it up. If you can wire a DC layout, well, you can wire a DCC layout even easier. It's probably more important to have good track work and good wiring, because it's a bit less forgiving, but the rules are pretty much the same. It may be a bit difficult to let go of the "block" mentality, and sometimes you'll want to isolate a siding or two, but overall it's an easy learning curve.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
this isn't really basic or step-by-step , but it includes just about every bit of information you'll ever need to wire a DCC layout
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
ernie
Here are links to a lot of free DCC wiring information. Store the links in your favorites folder if you are still stuck with IE or in your Bookmarks if using Firefox. There is an incredible amount of DCC info on the 'Net. Sub-divide your Favorites or Bookmarks for different subjects in DCC, such as, decoders, controllers, boosters, buss wiring, feeders, soldering tips, etc. You can even save a page as a HTML document in your PC. Click on the html file in your hard drive and the site opens up. Don't forget, the 'Net is a huge library and your PC is a nice file cabinet, think paper files. This way you will learn more and no doubt have answers for others in the future.
Basic wiring is a little easier than block wiring, just different. It can get a little more complex when adding booster districts for a large layout. Oh, you will need patience.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ned=us&q=dcc+wiring&btnmeta%3Dsearch%3Dsearch=Search+the+Web
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
There seems to be a belief that DCC requires some type of advanced wiring using techniques that are specific to it.
The basic principals from DC apply to DCC. It's still just two wires feeding the rails. Only the thing connected to one end of the wires has changed. If it works for DC, it will work for DCC.
Martin Myers