Thanks for the tip Robert,
Will do.
Regards,
John
Robert,
They may be, I have not removed the shell on most of these locos, included them as they didn't appear to have a split frame and there was no indiication as to whether or not they were DCC ready/compatible.
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for reviewing the locos, looks like most will be able to be converted to DCC without much difficulty, that's great.
Appreciate your time in reviewing the locos.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: CSX Robert wrote: cbqjohn wrote:...Model Power: 462's, 440, 282,...Aren't all of the Model Power stam engines DCC ready? If so, these would be pretty easy installs. Remove the tender shell and pickup wires and motor wires are all there.Not many of the old ones are. I have a couple of Model F units and one small steamer that belonged to my nephew before he got into cars. The motor in the steamer is grounded to the frame, likewise with one of the F's. The other F has wires going from both wheel pickups to the motor.
CSX Robert wrote: cbqjohn wrote:...Model Power: 462's, 440, 282,...Aren't all of the Model Power stam engines DCC ready? If so, these would be pretty easy installs. Remove the tender shell and pickup wires and motor wires are all there.
cbqjohn wrote:...Model Power: 462's, 440, 282,...
mfm37 wrote: John, Here's a good place to start:http://www.trainweb.org/nrmrc/dcc/conversions/html I'll leave it to you to decide whether each is "worth: it or not. One thing to remeber is that if they do not run well on DC there will be no improvement on DCC. When I started, decoders were $35-$55 each. Many of the older locos just weren't worth it the expense or trouble. Now with decoders 1n the $15-$20 range they may be worth the expense. Martin Myers
John,
Here's a good place to start:
http://www.trainweb.org/nrmrc/dcc/conversions/html
I'll leave it to you to decide whether each is "worth: it or not. One thing to remeber is that if they do not run well on DC there will be no improvement on DCC. When I started, decoders were $35-$55 each. Many of the older locos just weren't worth it the expense or trouble. Now with decoders 1n the $15-$20 range they may be worth the expense.
Martin Myers
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cbqjohn wrote: Con Cor: PA-1's & PB-1's, Gas Turbine, E8, SW1500, MP-15, 464's, just remembered I also have an operating Rotary Plow.I don't have them, and haven't seen them done, but I would expwect the PAs,, E's, and Gas Turbine to be pretty easy. Probably have to chop out some frame, a dremel can usually do it.Life Like: GP-38's, GP7's, SW/8's, SW9/1200,The GP-38 and SW's are not too hard to do. I expect the GP7 is similar, but I don't knwo that for a fact.Model Power: 462's, 440, 282,The Pacific isn't hard at all.Bachman: 484, Minitrix: 2 10 0Atlas: Gp-40's, RSC-2, if the RSC is similar to the RS-2, and I think it is, it is very doable. Rapido: 462, 464,MRC: 284Also several 080's of unknown make (although they look like Atlas)
Con Cor: PA-1's & PB-1's, Gas Turbine, E8, SW1500, MP-15, 464's, just remembered I also have an operating Rotary Plow.
I don't have them, and haven't seen them done, but I would expwect the PAs,, E's, and Gas Turbine to be pretty easy. Probably have to chop out some frame, a dremel can usually do it.
Life Like: GP-38's, GP7's, SW/8's, SW9/1200,
The GP-38 and SW's are not too hard to do. I expect the GP7 is similar, but I don't knwo that for a fact.
Model Power: 462's, 440, 282,
The Pacific isn't hard at all.
Bachman: 484,
Minitrix: 2 10 0
Atlas: Gp-40's, RSC-2,
if the RSC is similar to the RS-2, and I think it is, it is very doable.
Rapido: 462, 464,
MRC: 284
Also several 080's of unknown make (although they look like Atlas)
In all cases you need to see how the power is getting to the motor. Then isolate the motor from the rails, which usually means isolating the motor from the frame. The link to the North Raleigh club has lots of examples, you can see some of the methods there, and make them work.
As far as replacement frames go, check Southern Digital, and Aztec. If you are going to spend $20 to $30 on a decoder, $10 or so for a frame to make the job easier seems reasonable to me. So far I have not used them, as I have been able to hack my own sufficiently. But I am sorely tempted in the future.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Jeffrey,
Finally got a chance to get at one of my old Atlas GP40's.
Unfortunately it isn't close to what the HO version is.
Thanks for the photo, glad yours was easy, don't think the N scale will be.
Nothing. The photo below will give you some idea of the frame construction.
I'm guessing HO would be similar to N in design. What (if anyting) did you have to do to the frame?
cbqjohn wrote:As your's was also an older version, what did you have to do the frame to achieve the split frame effect of not shorting out as it wouild with the old frame. It doesn't seem as if there enough room to use tape or silicone to insulate. ? ?
As your's was also an older version, what did you have to do the frame to achieve the split frame effect of not shorting out as it wouild with the old frame. It doesn't seem as if there enough room to use tape or silicone to insulate. ? ?
Hi CA,
Good guidlines. Most all run well, of course not as well as a new Kato or most of the newer DCC ready/compatible engines. But well enough to use, as they are models of full size locos that didn't pull as well as some of todays monsters.
Wonder if you or anyone has experience with the Aztec frame exchange/machining program and with repalcing the motor with a more modern version? Also if there is more than one make/model that will fit, is there one that fits/works better in certain model locos?
Thanks to you and the others for your help and suggestions.
Hi Jeffrey,
Understood, I feel the same and I don't have to have everything 100% prototypical, but there are some that I'm not sure if I want to go through the expense of the Aztec frame exchange and a few would undoubtedly benefit from a new motor. I have several Atlas GP-40's that I thought I would have to get an Aztec split frame exchange in order to convert. As your's was also an older version, what did you have to do the frame to achieve the split frame effect of not shorting out as it wouild with the old frame. It doesn't seem as if there enough room to use tape or silicone to insulate. ? ?
Thanks,
This list is my mostly older locos that I would like to convert to DCC.
All of the other engines I have are newer locos and are either DCC ready (a few with DCC) or or compatible and I have seen articles on converting those. Any help or guidance on the listed locos is greatly appreciated.
The two main factors I considered when deciding whether or not to put decoders into older locomotives was (1) does it run well; and (2) is it something I use regularly.
(1) A locomotive that does not run well will be worse off with a DCC decoder in it. DCC is not a cure-all for a bad motor, rusted and pitted wheels, or other mechanical problems. DCC works good only in a smooth-running locomotive with a quality motor.
(2) If it is something that just sits on the layout and gathers dust or is put away in a box and hasn't been used for several years, it's not used enough to justify the cost of a decoder.
Jacktal,
Sounds as if some of these were fairly recent models? Unfortunatelythe ones I mentioned are at least 30+ years old.
Did yours all have a split frame (perhaps the Spectrum)? All of my later locos already have split frames and I am not too concerned about them. As I have yet to disassemble them, hope I'm not overly optimistic.
Those that require machining, hopefully will be amongst those for which Aztec offers frame work, as I don't have a milling machine and wouldn't trust my accuracy using the drill press.
Speaking of weight reduction when doing frame work, has anyone used tungsten? It's much heavier than lead (2 or 3 times as heavy), and I plan to use it in hope that it would add the weight removed and then some. Wonder if the frames could be made of it (or at least an alloy containing a high percentage)?
Thanks for your input,
Martin,
Looks like a great site, just joined and will review their postings. The decoder was the least of my concerns (except for money);-). They all run well but some (mainly switch engines) don't pull many cars, have been told some of the full size versions didn't either.
The main issue as I have been told, is the space and then the mechanics (frame, wiring, weight, etc.). I don't want to have to replace motor, frame, etc. unless there is no option.
Thanks for your recommendation.
I've done this a couple of times with some success (Rivarrossi Challenger,ConCor Turbine,Spectrum DD40AX) and,while a little challenging,the job is fun.If you can already do some welding (wires) and can understand wiring schematics,then you have most of what is needed.Only a few regular hand tools and access to a milling machine (or drill press) and you're all set.The problem with N scale locos is the lack of room (decoder space and wire passages) so some milling of the frame is sometimes required but this does have some drawback in that it does reduce the loco's weight thus it's pulling capabilities.Personally,I don't even consider retroffiting the lighter ones.
Also,there have been a few that I abandoned the idea as their designs didn't lend themselves to reasonable conversions.Split frames aren't too bad but some other frame types just are too challenging to be worthed the effort.It goes with what the loco is worthed to me.Make sure the motor is well insulated and the current can flow to the decoder and one can convert anything,given you have the skills...and patience.
My intial locomotive (N scale) purchases (about 15- 20) were long before DCC, when I had the time, space and money to renew my interest, I bought everything in sight that appealed to me and unfortunately purchased quite a few non-DCC locomotives, mostly Life Like, before deciding that DCC ready or compatible would, without much effort, allow me to go that route.
Question for the group: Is it worthwhile to convert the recent Life Like and the older (Minitrix, Rapido, Con Cor, Atlas, MRC, etc. ) locomotives to DCC?
I've been told that some of the older engines aren't worth the effort and some can't be done (space and difficulty) and have decided to sell them, but do have at least 20 that I'd like to convert. Is there a list of those are easily converted?
I know Aztec has a frame service which I plan to use for some and there are shops that offer the DCC conversion service, but as I am fairly capable of soldering, following wirirng schematics and need to save money, I plan to do the work.
Looking for a ray of hope as some of these models aren't available in any new or DCC versions.
Thanks for any suggestions,