donhalshanks wrote:Thanks for your responses. The P2K instructions say no separate resistor is needed for the LED light when installing DCC decoders. An 8-pin decoder requires some soldering of the decoder wires. However, the 9-pin seems to require only the removal of a small PC board and harness plug, and plugging in the decoder. From your responses, sounds like the plug-in DH123PS will work unless I switch to the DH165LO on your recmmendations. The help on removing the shell is much appreciated.Hal
Thanks for your responses. The P2K instructions say no separate resistor is needed for the LED light when installing DCC decoders. An 8-pin decoder requires some soldering of the decoder wires. However, the 9-pin seems to require only the removal of a small PC board and harness plug, and plugging in the decoder. From your responses, sounds like the plug-in DH123PS will work unless I switch to the DH165LO on your recmmendations. The help on removing the shell is much appreciated.
Hal
Hal,
Wow, that sounds more like an RTR Athearn setup than a P2K! Maybe they've changed them since the last time I bought one (which is entirely possible).
Anyway, if you have a 9-pin (JST) socket with a jumper plug that can be removed, then yes, I'm pretty sure that any of the DH123 variations will work. I believe all of the DH123's are JST-based, so all you'd have to do is remove whatever harness came with it.
Steve
The clerk probably sold you the PS (P for Plug and S for Short wiring harness) because that's what he had on hand, and because yes it will physically fit in that loco.
But as Dave has pointed out, the DH165L0 is really a better choice. It fits perfectly and avoids the bulb replacement/voltage/resistor/LED concerns altogether. I've used it (actually the earlier DH163L0) in my DCC-ready P2K Geeps and have been very happy with it.
I also have a number of early, non-DCC ready P2K Geeps that I've had to hard-wire decoders into. In those cases, I have had to deal with the lighting issues, and for a no-hassle conversion, believe me, the DH165L0 is the way to go!
HTH,Steve
Edit: Forgot the body removal. In addition to removing the couplers, some P2K Geeps have two small screws, one on either side of the fuel tank, that go up into the body. If memory serves me, one screw to remove the fuel tank and then they will be visible. Remove those, then rock the body as previously mentioned. It's a tight fit, so it won't rock much at all, but it should wiggle right off. You also need to keep it fairly level from front to rear.
The shell comes off by removeing the couplers first. Then rock the shell from side to side while holding the chassis in the other hand. P2K locos seem to run better without the plug and hardwired the decoders in. You will probably have to change the headlights so pick up some sunny white LEDs and 1K resistors.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
donhalshanks, I don't have any pointed help, simply moral support.
I am fighting the same situation. I did not completely rely on internet information. Instead, I chose to figure out how to remove the shell (it ended up being easier than I feared), and the answer presented itself. Once I saw for myself what I had seen in the instruction manuals, things became much clearer. As with most other things, once you learn how to de-cipher the vocabulary, it becomes easier to work with.
I am sure you can remove the shell successfully, then you will know. There is a good chance you will plug right in and run your first DCC tonight.
Good luck.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I'm new in DCC and have received a P2K GP7/9, with 8 or 9-pin plug and no decoder. Asking the hobby shop for a decoder (without sound), they gave me Digitrax DH123PS 9-pin. At home and not quite sure of the clerk's expertise, my internet search seems to say a DH123D is the choice for the loco.
1. What is the difference between a DH123D and the DH123PS? (The later does say medium plug, and is this a problem)?
2. Will the DH123PS work? If not I'll take it back before opening it.
3. What decoder would you use? (not including sound)
4. Any hints on how the body shell comes off on the Proto 2000? The diagrams are not intuitive as to how to do this. Instruction for installing a decoder are quite clear.
Thanks very much for your help as I'm anxious to run my first DCC locomotive.