Gentles,
I've searched this forum, and the web, but the only decoders that I can find to fit a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 are a former plug-n-play that's not made anymore. Most of the web links I find are from 2000-2005.
I have two of these locomotives, and while I'm just a newb to this hobbie, I like them a lot (good runners already) and would like to replace the standard DCC decoder that it came with with a sound capable version. I've been surprised that my searches have come up kind of empty, but I may have been overlooking something basic.
Does anyone know what the best, and perhaps most importantly, easiest decoder replacement would be? As I've got two of them, I'm not too afraid of doing the job myself - especially at the eBay prices I paid for these (NIB no less). I can solder, but I'm no expert.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions, and patience.
Scarp
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
You might want to look at the Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder series ( I think the light steam version would work). Lots of options and features - including multiple whistles to select from. You can listen to the different versions from here:
http://www.soundtraxx.com/products/dcc/tsunamisound.htm
There are lots of resources to get these from such as Tony's Trains, Litchfield Station and Charleston Digital Trains to name a few. I've used the heavy steam version myself - the install was very straightforward.
Charles
I have installed a SoundTraxx Micro-Tsunami light steam in a Spectrum 4-4-0. It has excellant speed control.
I use the Micro in all my new Roundhouse steamers.
I had first installed a SoundTraxx DSD-100LC decoder but the Micro is much better sounding and running decoder.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 wrote:I have installed a SoundTraxx Micro-Tsunami light steam in a Spectrum 4-4-0. It has excellant speed control.I use the Micro in all my new Roundhouse steamers. I had first installed a SoundTraxx DSD-100LC decoder but the Micro is much better sounding and running decoder.Rich
I saw your thread about that, and I have the identical 4-4-0. I thought I'd tackle the Consolidations first, to work on my skills in this area, as my 4-4-0 really needs the additional tender pickups.
Thanks for your feedback, I'll most likely pick up the Tusunami light steam decoder.
Sounds good. Litchfield Station has free shipping over $50.00.
My installation was a little more difficult as I had removed the PC board because the DSD decoder was a little large for the tender area. This was my first DCC install. I installed extra wipers in my 4-4-0 tender that made a difference. I believe I posted a link for someones idea on adding wipers.
A fellow in the club I belong to installed a Micro in a 4-4-0 using the PC board. You should have no trouble with the 2-8-0.
Remember to cut out the capacitors that are on the PC board. They are know to cause issues.
Consider taking photos of your installation for others to follow. We are all helping each other.
Scarpia wrote:I saw your thread about that, and I have the identical 4-4-0. I thought I'd tackle the Consolidations first, to work on my skills in this area, as my 4-4-0 really needs the additional tender pickups.Thanks for your feedback, I'll most likely pick up the Tusunami light steam decoder.
Having done this on several IHC 2-6-0 and having a few Bachmann 2-8-0 with sound (Tsunami) I would go with the medium, not the light for the 2-8-0. Better whistle selection that the light (that is more for the really small locos, Shays and Heislers).
Here are some specs. The Micro-Tsunami has two functions and 0.75 amp max. The Standard Tsunami has four functions and 1 amp max. Both have external Chuff Sync capabilities.
Tsunami Heavy Steam, TSU-1000, P/N 826103Frisco #1522 "Mountain" (4-8-2)Norfolk & Western #1218 2-6-6-4 (N&W Class "A")Union Pacific # 4018 "Big Boy" 4-8-8-4Southern Pacific #4449 (Whistle) "Northern" 4-8-4Southern Pacific #4449 (Air Horn) "Northern" 4-8-4USRA 6-chime------------------------------------------Tsunami Medium Steam, TSU-1000, P/N 826102USRA 6-chimeBaltimore & Ohio 3-chimeColorado & Southern #801 "Mikado" 2-8-2Pennsylvania Railroad BansheeLehigh ValleyNathan 5-chime (Road mix)Nathan 5-chime (Yard mix)Santa Fe Freight------------------------------------------Tsunami Light Steam, TSU-1000, P/N 826101 (?)Colorado & Southern 2-8-0 #74 (Road Mix)Colorado & Southern 2-8-0 #74 (Yard Mix)Baldwin ConsolodationHeislerWestside Shay #14PeanutD&RGW single-chimeReading 6-chime
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Micro Tsunami Light Logging, TSU-750, P/N 826820Westside Logging Co. Shay #12Westside Logging Co. Shay #14HeislerPeanutD&RGW Single Chime
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tsunami Bachmann OEMUSRA 6-chimeBaltimore & Ohio 3-chimeColorado & Southern #801 "Mikado" 2-8-2
Does the engine currently have a decoder in it?? If so, you might consider adding an MRC "Sounder" sound-only decoder. I just installed one in a Spectrum engine and I thought it worked out pretty well, considering it costs under $30!!
I installed ESU Loksound decoders into two Spectrum 2-8-0 last week. There is plenty of room in the tender. I soldered the wires of the decoder directly to the little printed circuit board of the engine/tender connector. The loudspeaker got glued over a hole I made into the floor of the tender. I did also add some weight.
As I wrote, there is plenty of room in the tender and the installation is quite simple. The engines runs very good with the ESU Loksound decoder. ESU supplies also a soundfile for the 2-8-0.
ps. I did also add some current pickup in the tender to use each wheel on both sides. The engine-tender combination never stalls with so much pickups.
Reinhard
I shoud have a Athearn Genesis USRA 4-6-2 DCC ready not too long from now. It will get a Micro also.
ok, I got my order from Tony's Trains today.
Here is the exploded tender, with the stock decoder removed, and the new parts. Now go easy on me, as this is my first time with this, so please be understanding in your responses.
1. The stock circuit board stays, right? Part marked as 2 plugs into 1 on one end, but I sever the adapter on the other end, and match up like colored wires from the new Tsunami sound decoder (#3)? Solder and wrap the connections?
The speakers (#4) I know what do do with except for the cream colored wire that comes from the Tsunami.
I appreciate your help. I'm was thinking - easy! but before I start hacking, i'd rather have a better idea of what to do.
Simple one first, the cream colored wire is for the optional Exhaust Chuff Cam. You probably will not need it at all unless you install the cam/contact.
If you are really good at soldering you can use the socket connector that attaches the engine to tender. Red and black are power pickup. The other green/orange/purple/blue you will have to figure out as they are not standard color code.
Other option is cut and remove a portion of the shrink wrap and remove the JST connector from the Tsunami. Then simply plug your item #2 direct to the decoder.
UpNorth wrote:Simple one first, the cream colored wire is for the optional Exhaust Chuff Cam. You probably will not need it at all unless you install the cam/contact.If you are really good at soldering you can use the socket connector that attaches the engine to tender. Red and black are power pickup. The other green/orange/purple/blue you will have to figure out as they are not standard color code. Other option is cut and remove a portion of the shrink wrap and remove the JST connector from the Tsunami. Then simply plug your item #2 direct to the decoder.
Thanks - I received the same answer from Tony's Trains. Only two wires to solder, who hoo!
Well the job is done. For folks who are interested, i have a page up here.
Thanks for everyone's input, and a special thanks to Norm at Tony's Trains.
I don't see mention of drilling holes to let the sounds thru the coal load ? Did you provide this. If you simply put the speaker in the tender, you are loosing much volume. And the speaker must be mounted and sealed to a baffle or sound board to get max volume out of it. Same as an audio speaker is mounted in a sealed enclosure or ported.
I'll bet you the Bachmann decoder has the JST 9pin connector on it and that you could have used that.
UpNorth wrote:I don't see mention of drilling holes to let the sounds thru the coal load ? Did you provide this. If you simply put the speaker in the tender, you are loosing much volume. And the speaker must be mounted and sealed to a baffle or sound board to get max volume out of it. Same as an audio speaker is mounted in a sealed enclosure or ported. I'll bet you the Bachmann decoder has the JST 9pin connector on it and that you could have used that.
I didn't drill holes in the tender load; I'll have to look at doing that. Is there a clever way to disguise the holes?
The speaker is in a enclosure that I got from Tony's Trains (see the picture a few posts back; you can see it there.
Forgive my ignorance, but the JST 9pin is the wide white connector, correct? Are you suggesting that i could have plugged in the tsunami into that decoder, directly and not use the harness, or that I could have added a sound decoder only? If that's the case than I think I'd rather replace the Bachmann decoder, as the locomotive runs a whole heck of a lot smoother with the Tsunami in place.
Nice job with the pictures Scarpia. You know what they say about a picture vs words. Not to get off topic. but I think using foam under your cork is going to make more noise than cork on plywood or homasote on plywood. Thought you might want to know. Once again, nice job!
CONCORD
Scarpia wrote: I didn't drill holes in the tender load; I'll have to look at doing that. Is there a clever way to disguise the holes? The speaker is in a enclosure that I got from Tony's Trains (see the picture a few posts back; you can see it there.Forgive my ignorance, but the JST 9pin is the wide white connector, correct? Are you suggesting that i could have plugged in the tsunami into that decoder, directly and not use the harness, or that I could have added a sound decoder only? If that's the case than I think I'd rather replace the Bachmann decoder, as the locomotive runs a whole heck of a lot smoother with the Tsunami in place.
YES, you must have holes to let the sound pass. As it is you have a hand over the mouth (to give you a visual image). You can mount the speaker on the floor but this would require you remove the small card and the weight and drill numerous holes as seen here.
Simpler is to leave it alone and drill the coal load. Yes you must drill holes in the coal load to let the sound out. Use a #55 dril to make holes at an angle. Here is a link to Soundtraxx install document that covers how too :
http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/manuals/tsuinstallation.pdf
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1905/roundhouse_sound/
The inclosure you have is fine. but you need to let the sound out of the tender, my friend. I promise it will drown out the noise from track.
If you cut the Bachmann shrink wrap back a tad, I'll bet you the decoder has the same 9pin JST connector you needed and purchased. But I could be wrong.
The standard Tsunami, 1 amp. has a 9 pin JST connector. The Micro-Tsunami, 0.75 amp. does Not have any connector. You have to had your own connector or hard wire directly.
Cutting the shrink back for the JST connector might affect the warranty.
Completely removing the heat shrink may cause warranty issues. Simply cutting it back to gain access to the JST connector should not. Soundtraxx even prones cutting the heat shrink when adding a capacitor fix to the DSX type decoder and states this will not void warranty.
" Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully trim 1/8" off the white heat shrink tubing on the DSX at the plug end. Be very careful not to cut the wires.This will not void your warranty as long as you only expose this area. "
For the Micro-Tsunami you can purchase the NMRA 8 pin socket and solder the wires to it and plug it into the DCC ready socket.
CONCORD wrote:Nice job with the pictures Scarpia. You know what they say about a picture vs words. Not to get off topic. but I think using foam under your cork is going to make more noise than cork on plywood or homasote on plywood. Thought you might want to know. Once again, nice job!CONCORD
one more thing to put on my list of lessons learned on my test layout. I think I'll keep foam for a scenery area, but use wood based materials under the track on my final run. Thanks!
UpNorth wrote:YES, you must have holes to let the sound pass. As it is you have a hand over the mouth (to give you a visual image). You can mount the speaker on the floor but this would require you remove the small card and the weight and drill numerous holes as seen here. Simpler is to leave it alone and drill the coal load. Yes you must drill holes in the coal load to let the sound out. Use a #55 dril to make holes at an angle. Here is a link to Soundtraxx install document that covers how too :http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/manuals/tsuinstallation.pdfhttp://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1905/roundhouse_sound/The inclosure you have is fine. but you need to let the sound out of the tender, my friend. I promise it will drown out the noise from track.If you cut the Bachmann shrink wrap back a tad, I'll bet you the decoder has the same 9pin JST connector you needed and purchased. But I could be wrong.
Thanks again for your info; I'll look at doing the coal load. I'm planning, due to my success here to doing my other 2-8-0 as the budget allows.
I don't see the advantage of the Micro Tsunami in this set up, as the tender is plenty large enough. For my 4-4-0, than that's going to be the way to go.
Cheers
In my experience, not drilling holes may reduce the volume a bit, but also tends to boost the bass so to me makes a more realistic sound. I'd say try it without holes first and see how it sounds.
Keep in mind too that in Bachmann Spectrum shells, there is an interior wall under the removeable coal load; drilling holes thru the coal load won't do much if there aren't holes in the area beneath it. Of course, you can drill a hole for the wires in that underneath divider and put the speaker under the coal load, I think Soundtraxx or somebody even makes a cardboard baffle to hold a 1" speaker in place in such a situation. I tried it once, I found the sound was loud but "tinny", sounded much better in the main body (with no holes).
The speaker is under the coal load in an enclosure I got from Tony's Trains.
I drilled lots of small holes in the coal, and you really cannot see them.
Here's a video (proof in the pudding and all) of it in action. Note that I was holding my camera and driving at the same time, the Tsunami decoder is really a lot smoother running than this shows.
4 MB MOV - Tsunami demonstration - quicktime needed.