rs2mike wrote: wjstix wrote:Soundtraxx makes a drop-in (board replacement) sound decoder for Atlas ALCO's also, I put one in one of my RS-1's with a 1/2" speaker and enclosure in the front of the long hood, works quite well, easy to do and not expensive.Thanks for that infor. When you put a sound decoder in it do you also have to put a regular decoder in it as well or does the sound decoder take over both functions? Haven't done much research on them to know.ThanksMike
wjstix wrote:Soundtraxx makes a drop-in (board replacement) sound decoder for Atlas ALCO's also, I put one in one of my RS-1's with a 1/2" speaker and enclosure in the front of the long hood, works quite well, easy to do and not expensive.
Thanks for that infor. When you put a sound decoder in it do you also have to put a regular decoder in it as well or does the sound decoder take over both functions? Haven't done much research on them to know.
Thanks
Mike
The AT-100 is a combined 'regular' and sound decoder, it's a direct replacement for the light board in an Atlas engine so it takes up the same amount of room, all you have to do is fit in a speaker.
For an RS-1 you would use PN 820042, the ALCO version.
Soundtraxx AT100LC
It doesn't come with a speaker. I like to use Tony's 1/2" speakers and enclosures since the speakers come with the connection wires soldered onto them - makes it a lot easier than trying to solder tiny wires to the speakers like other manufacturers have you do!!
Tony's .50" speakers
jktrains wrote: Mike,The easiest way to check them is to test them with a 1.5v battery. If they light, then they're 1.5 v bulbs. If they don't or they're very very dim, then you're looking at 12v bulbs.testing with a battery is also a good way checking the bulb installation to make sure the bulb is properly positioned and looks good when lighted.
Mike,
The easiest way to check them is to test them with a 1.5v battery. If they light, then they're 1.5 v bulbs. If they don't or they're very very dim, then you're looking at 12v bulbs.
testing with a battery is also a good way checking the bulb installation to make sure the bulb is properly positioned and looks good when lighted.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
csmith9474 wrote:I know this is OT, but what do y'all think of the quality of the Classic Series RSs? I have been wanting to get a Santa Fe (zebra) Atlas Classic RS, but am not sure about the detail and running qualities. Do they have seperate grabs, and decent pilot detail. Thanks in advance!!
Runs nice and smooth, very slow and very quiet. The detail is good, with seperate grab irons, smoke stack and radiator. The handrails are seperate but all one piece, and it comes with roller bearing and friction trucks, and an engineer and fireman.
I like it, I have been looking for an undec one but everyonne seems to be out. I was going to buy a decorated one but didn't want to spend the 85 clams at the local shop to destroy the paint job on. I finally got one on ebay for 40 with shipping brand new never opened except by me.
Since when are 12V bulbs orange? Just kidding, but the statement " Atlas Classics have 12v bulbs." obviously does not apply in all cases. I have an Atlas Classic RS-3 (MKT) and two RSD-4/5 (both Santa Fe), both from more recent runs, and they all have LEDs.
JW
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Thanks everyone for the help on the dcc.
Jerry I have a multi meter but have no clue how to use it. What do I need to do to check the voltage of the lights?
As others have stated, you need to replace the board with a DA-SR, which is a drop-in replacement. Don't forget to check the voltage of the existing bulbs before reconnecting.
It's DCC ready, but you'll have to replace the Atlas board with a drop in decoder.. I use TCS A4X decoders. I get them from Tony's Train Exchange.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Here you go:
http://www.ncedcc.com/
http://digitrax.com/decsel.php
Make sure you look in the HO section on both charts.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
I got a new atlas classic(black box) undec rs-1 loco. I woul like a dcc decoder in it. This loco has a circuit board on top of the motor where the motor leads and light leads and resistors for the light are. My question is how do I convert this to dcc. Do I remove the board? Is it dcc ready or do I need to isolate the frame? A little help will go a long way on this project thank you in advance.
mike