Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I think this would work with a 4PDT switch:
Rotor
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
If he he found this confusing, once he sees the terminals on that switch, it should give him a good scare.
I had thought of the 4PDT on-off-on switch once I had finished my drawing. Too lazy to change it.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Would a 4PDT center off toggle work?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=W18tsexzFXobHG5qKG8mpQ%3d%3d
The cabs can be hooked to one side, DCC to the other. When switched, it would disconnect both cabs with one switch.
Here's a link to more 4PDT switches.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=*4PDT*+*switch*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=4PDT+switch&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards
As per one of his previous posts, he wanted to run dual DC throttle (cab A/ cab B) and this requires additional means of isolating both DC throttles from the DCC. So it requires 2 DPDT center-off and from these he runs wires to his cab A/B DPDT switches. From the cab A/B DPDT switches he runs his feeders to track blocks. So it can become confusing to someone who is not familliar with the wiring.
This requires you label both DC/DCC DPDT center-off switches and remember to put them both on DCC or DC or risk blowing something. The block DPDT switches will not matter in DCC operation.
If you are confused, don't risk it.
UpNorth wrote: davidmbedard wrote: dehusman wrote: Just make sure you don't have any DC engine on the track when you cut over to DCC or you may fry them.Dave H.No, you will not.David BAs DCC voltage will be present, the DC loco will sit buzing loud enough to drive you crazy till it cooks itself to death, eventually." To avoid heat build up in your locos without decoders, Digitrax recommends that analog locos NOT be left sitting on DCC powered track for long periods of time when they are not running. "
davidmbedard wrote: dehusman wrote: Just make sure you don't have any DC engine on the track when you cut over to DCC or you may fry them.Dave H.No, you will not.David B
dehusman wrote: Just make sure you don't have any DC engine on the track when you cut over to DCC or you may fry them.Dave H.
Just make sure you don't have any DC engine on the track when you cut over to DCC or you may fry them.
Dave H.
No, you will not.
David B
As DCC voltage will be present, the DC loco will sit buzing loud enough to drive you crazy till it cooks itself to death, eventually.
" To avoid heat build up in your locos without decoders, Digitrax recommends that analog locos NOT be left sitting on DCC powered track for long periods of time when they are not running. "
Some will, some won't. It is not at all likely to be instantaneous. the bigger thing you are trying to avoid is shoting the outputs of the DC system to the DCC system. If the current output of the DC system is not limited, the DCC system is not going to be ahppy with the result. And remember, a loco crossing a boundary is shorting the systems together.
froggy wrote:How would the diagram look if I had a power pack for DC that had cab A and Cab B?I am running two DC locomotives with DC.
Almost identical. Cab a feeds one end of switch, Cab B the other and track off of the center.
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Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
froggy wrote:That's a good answer, The Prodigy does not have an off on switch so I imagine when I'm done running trains It is okay to unplug it?Or would you just turn off the switch? Do we need a DPDT for the DC and the DCC or just one of them?
I only have doubts because of my questions. I want to do this, because I don't want to build a another layout for my DC.I have a label maker, so I would be sure NOT to mess anything up.I usually plan these things out before I do it.That's why I ask the questions I do.
This is the way I wired my DPDT switches. If I flip the switch up, DCC goes to the block. If I flip the switch down, DC goes to the block. Placing the switch in the middle turns off power to the block.
DPDT center-off switch right at the power packs. Having both the DC and DCC wired and simply turning one off is simply too risky. The risk is blowing out one unit by human error.