good rail contact

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

I am inclined to think the gleaming process makes a lot of sense, if you do it right.  It you get rid of the pits, the dirt isn't going to have a place to hide.  It intrigues me.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Yeah, but like all oils, it attracts dirt.

I would think so, though the one's that swear by it say it doesn't.  I think they use very, very, very little.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Yeah, but like all oils, it attracts dirt.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Another "controversial" solution that is sworn by by some people, and rejected by others is Wahl Clipper Oil, the stuff that is used on hair clippers.  A tiny amount on the track in one spot, then run a train around to spread it.  I haven't tried it yet, but more than one person, including some skeptics, say it really works.

[Trax21]

If you feel you have enough feeders then you may have pick-up issues with your locos. Make sure the pick-ups are clean and free of any oil. Unless it's a special conductive oil most oils act as an insulator. You may also want to think about polishing your track the same way I did mine. I polished mine back in 2006 and haven't had to give it a real cleaning since, just a quick wipe down if I haven't run any trains in a while.

I would be very interested to know how you "polished your track"

When it comes to having clean track that stays clean, you might want to try this. It was posted by one of the members of the Model Railroader forum. It worked for me. It's called 'GLEAM'.


QUOTE: (Originally posted by Semafore)

I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it

Thanks I will defantly have to try that one Sounds like it is pretty involved but will work extremly well

[jeffrey-wimberly]

If you feel you have enough feeders then you may have pick-up issues with your locos. Make sure the pick-ups are clean and free of any oil. Unless it's a special conductive oil most oils act as an insulator. You may also want to think about polishing your track the same way I did mine. I polished mine back in 2006 and haven't had to give it a real cleaning since, just a quick wipe down if I haven't run any trains in a while.

I would be very interested to know how you "polished your track"

When it comes to having clean track that stays clean, you might want to try this. It was posted by one of the members of the Model Railroader forum. It worked for me. It's called 'GLEAM'.


QUOTE: (Originally posted by Semafore)

I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it

[Trax21]

I have found that super clean track and wheels can be dry and cause intermintent contact.  I use CRC 2-26 on my track.  A little dab will do ya!  Wipe it on with your finger on a 12 inch long section, then wash your hands, and then run your loco's through it and around your layout.  It doesn't build up with a big mess like Rail Zip would do.  WD-40 will do the same thing in a pinch, or if you want to try that before buying a can of CRC.

I had heard that you could do that with WD-40 but I wasn't sure and I didn't want to try anything till I got some feedback from some people that knew a bit more than me. Thanks

[Trax21]

Thanks for all the feedback. To answer some of the questions everything is soldered. To the track as well as my joints I've run the meter around the track testing my dead spots and they do have power. I will try cleaning it again however and check all the pickups on the locos. I am still in the building stage as like I have said before this is my first layout and I am still learning so again thank you to all the feeback and suggestions you are giving me.

[Trax21]

If you feel you have enough feeders then you may have pick-up issues with your locos. Make sure the pick-ups are clean and free of any oil. Unless it's a special conductive oil most oils act as an insulator. You may also want to think about polishing your track the same way I did mine. I polished mine back in 2006 and haven't had to give it a real cleaning since, just a quick wipe down if I haven't run any trains in a while.

I would be very interested to know how you "polished your track"

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Make sure the track is clean.  Rub it down with a piece of cork, or use some alcohol.  Looks clean doesn't cut it.

[BlueHillsCPR]

I've got a 14 gauge feeder about every 6' of main line plus on most of my spurs have a feeder. also all of my rail connectons are soldered in between feeders

14 gauge bus with smaller gauge feeders every 6' on most track?  Are the feeders soldered to the track...all connections sound, power source verified...that's all I can think of.

[UpNorth]

Can you be more specific about your here and there ?..

I had a similar issue. Ended up I had omitted to wire small sections of block isolation areas, few 3" sections with no power. Locos would run ok in one direction but not the other.

[gandydancer19]

I have found that super clean track and wheels can be dry and cause intermintent contact.  I use CRC 2-26 on my track.  A little dab will do ya!  Wipe it on with your finger on a 12 inch long section, then wash your hands, and then run your loco's through it and around your layout.  It doesn't build up with a big mess like Rail Zip would do.  WD-40 will do the same thing in a pinch, or if you want to try that before buying a can of CRC.

[locoi1sa]

  Hi Trax

 It would help to know what make and model of locos you have. I have had some Spectrum steam locos that have small bronze wipers behind the drivers that had little or no contact. Also they get packed with dust and lint and lose contact. I have also seen some deisels that have either been over lubed or the bronze bearings have worn to the point of little contact. Proto and Athearn locos rely on the truck pivot to transfer power and sometimes you have to polish the frame for good contact. This is just a few posibilities.

   Pete
 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

If you feel you have enough feeders then you may have pick-up issues with your locos. Make sure the pick-ups are clean and free of any oil. Unless it's a special conductive oil most oils act as an insulator. You may also want to think about polishing your track the same way I did mine. I polished mine back in 2006 and haven't had to give it a real cleaning since, just a quick wipe down if I haven't run any trains in a while.

[Trax21]

   DCC locos can be sensitive to momentary drop-outs that you'd never notice with a DC loco.

   If track and wheels are clean, the next thing to look at is track feeders. 

   Do you have enough feeders?  Don't depend on rail joints to carry the current.

Steve

 

I've got a 14 gauge feeder about every 6' of main line plus on most of my spurs have a feeder. also all of my rail connectons are soldered in between feeders

[Stevert]

   DCC locos can be sensitive to momentary drop-outs that you'd never notice with a DC loco.

   If track and wheels are clean, the next thing to look at is track feeders. 

   Do you have enough feeders?  Don't depend on rail joints to carry the current.

Steve

[Trax21]

Hey Everyone.

Ok so I switched my layout over to DCC today. Only small I only have three locos (one which needs serious work) Anyway htey all programed up fine and run for the most part good but I seem to have little dead spots hear and there. The wheels are clean and the rails seem to be clean. What I'm wondering is. Is there something I can use to maybe help make the connection better. Some sort of light contact oil or something like that.