rolleiman wrote:If I remember correctly the headlight on these locomotives IS an LED. Removing the harness can be done but unless it's in the way, I'd just leave it. IN order to remove it you have to either A, Trace the wires and see where they go and splice as needed (as well as provide for dropping voltage to the headlight) or B, remove the shell and completely rewire the thing. The shell CAN be removed but it isn't a simple operation. You will need a small phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience. First, Remove the cab. IIRC, it just snaps on. From there, again, IIRC, there are 3 screws that hold the superstructure on. One under the cab, one in the center (this one is the bear to get to), and one under the pilot truck on the front. Getting them out again, is an excersize in patience. Once they are out however, you can slide the plastic superstructure off of the motor housing and rewire. If you've no intention other than rewiring though, it really sin't worth the effort. You can improve things a bit by removing that stiff shrink wrap from the wires and coloring them black. The tender requires no wiring for the loco to run..Good luck..
If I remember correctly the headlight on these locomotives IS an LED. Removing the harness can be done but unless it's in the way, I'd just leave it. IN order to remove it you have to either A, Trace the wires and see where they go and splice as needed (as well as provide for dropping voltage to the headlight) or B, remove the shell and completely rewire the thing. The shell CAN be removed but it isn't a simple operation.
You will need a small phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience.
First, Remove the cab. IIRC, it just snaps on. From there, again, IIRC, there are 3 screws that hold the superstructure on. One under the cab, one in the center (this one is the bear to get to), and one under the pilot truck on the front. Getting them out again, is an excersize in patience. Once they are out however, you can slide the plastic superstructure off of the motor housing and rewire.
If you've no intention other than rewiring though, it really sin't worth the effort. You can improve things a bit by removing that stiff shrink wrap from the wires and coloring them black. The tender requires no wiring for the loco to run..
Good luck..
de N2MPU Jack
Proud NRA Life Member and supporter of the 2nd. Amendment
God, guns, and rock and roll!
Modeling the NYC/NYNH&H in HO and CPRail/D&H in N
Jack,
Yep, I was never able to remove the Athearn 2-8-2 shell from the frame. Is the harness only annoying to you visually? If the Mike operates fine, I would just leave it.
Sticking with DC is a matter of choice, of course, and a good one under certain circumstances. FWIW, I've found DCC to be way easier than DC in the realm of operating a layout though. Actually, I operate my locomotives rather than my layout - i.e. No blocks and selector switches to throw. Just press the speed button and it goes. Programming is a very simple operation and takes no more than 30 seconds to complete.
Even so, it's your choice. My
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Hi Jack
There is a diode and most times a resistor on the board to cut down the lighting voltage. Yes you can do away with the quick plug but the bad news is you will have to disasemble the loco to wire directly. You could get a diagram of the wires from downloading a quick plug decoders instructions from either NCE,TCS,or Digitrax websites. Being all dcc quick plugs 9 pin JST or 8 pin NMRA are industry standard.
As far as DCC and computers are concerned. They are 2 diferent things. DCC may seem like computing but it is in no way the same thing. The only relation ship between my computer and my railroad is I use the computer as a tool for research and info.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!